1987 subaru GL

[boxer3maine]

aka nordic gold (byproduct of alloy and brass copper radiator)
http://picasaweb.google.com/87soob/87Subaru?feat=directlink

Above link is photos. oct 2006-2011 so far..
mod list. This first post to sum up the whole thing .
http://lh4.ggpht.com/--gay6EMqbD0/TptYog7u-OI/AAAAAAAACvg/AsSfj1Vqw-g/newlip%252520004w2_thumb%25255B1%25255D.jpg?imgmax =800 (http://lh6.ggpht.com/-47R28riYrC0/TptYl-B3zWI/AAAAAAAACvY/jU89iTaV3kg/s1600-h/newlip%252520004w2%25255B3%25255D.jpg)
oct2011- inspected! (not as antique) . new in photo: the lip is home made..steel and bolts and 18 rivets..and just painted same color as grille (will not shine when dry). made from corded horse trailer mat.

history:
west coast car. lived in metlakatla alaska. A title issued in may of 1997 has the odometer at 19755 miles. I bought it in oct 2006 with 104k. Alot of sitting, and when it did rack up the miles, it was on 13 inch wheels and crazy struts (must have been a freakishly slow life). This car attempted to gut itself from the inside out..subframe channel covers mostly (a 1985-1987 anomoly). Excellent welding candidate it has been.

The owner I purchased from, I never met or talked to. Hand written in the bill of sale is "champagne- under white", referring to a unique factory paint job, I did find the white metallic under the champagne. Subaru had two paint jobs on one car...helped in achieving the iridescence. I could guess i won't see much like it again.

Engine and welding notes (http://www.newenglandsubarus.com/forums/showpost.php?p=219602&postcount=6)(I crossed the 10020 character limit for this post. :eek:)





latest news:

clutch is outdone..swapping to xt6 cover/disc/bearing.
engine is still sloppy, 1 year after gasket fail..yet alot more power.




if you don't like lists, quick summary:

engine is something subaru never built..

the largest last generation cams on the oldest solid lifters.
Flat top pistons
oem ZERO deck
squashed felpro permatorque HG = biggest combo possible.
HP unknow
ALL egr function is done away with, no timers (including cams), hoses, gadgets, piping..nothing left. Will not function if someone tried to be suicidal enough to return to oem insanity.

wheels and tires are 80s rally (peugeot SMR), tires are simply newer oem subaru
rear brakes had no function. now 50/50 split on revised hubs (skimpy 1987 no longer exists)
thickest of everything imaginable.
all electrical functions..zero errors.

I keep the back water bottle empty, and may unplug the pump
driver side door indicator switch not proper from factory (unplugged- the only electrical spot needing aftermarket ingenuity)

1 year iridescent paint code
1 year for carb and no ecm.(the last year)
this car has the "up to 12/86" rear crossmember (I deciphered it as simply early rx with no sway bracket, cambered natural- a bit extended by oem)
distant plans (I'll try to remember to update this part):

class II receiver hitch (I found this chassis was limited to class I- motivator for the extreme welds)
analyzing several carb hacks: monojet, rochester 2gc two barrel, etc (must fit my CAI boot)
1 more avid trz on peugeot wheel, and place to put it (found bolt down below rug n the back)
2 more door speakers, front (1987 was paper cone)
avoid accidents and terrorists
right front fender (milked one bad edge long enough- still good however)
toyota 4-runner front struts for the rear (guarantees 13mm, stronger weight rating - identical otherwise)
paint antannae...seems funny to think about, spray painting a 3/16ths rod. It shall be done.
transmission:

dual range 5 speed,I have done nothing
I made the lube: 1/2 quart 85w140, 1/2 quart 75w90 synthetic, 1 quart 85w90, and recycled two quarts of the stuff that was in it. Gears and a diff in same place...wow.
differential:

something subaru made for 1987.. a diff that did it all. 3.9 ratio..lsd/open/lock
no work needed- (will be modifying rear cover)
chassis..this whole list could be in bold as a perfomance maker.(I did all the work below):

custom pitch stop (made out of shiny breaker bar- of course welded)
custom beams under front seats (center carrier helper)
custom rear end tube (> 4 pounds of mig wire went in this tiny area- steel rod, sheet)
custom wheel wells
custom interior rocker framing
custom grill (more air, and added metal)
custom fuel pump mount (SECC, and a frame)
custom front air dam/lip (both the same for this old car)
doubled rockers (millsupply has these)
resealed headlamps, revisions
6 bolt holes for engine crossmember (2 middle are ea82 headbolts with a nut)
windshield wiper linkage removed, reworked to newer
rebuilt subframe ends (rear rocker meets arch root)
front sway bar (proper fit, tight, aligned- oem hookup had no function at all)
tunnel weld
front suspension clamped (3 inches dropped inside.. appears as 1.5 on the out - also pulled camber negative)
oem paint code engine bay + strong 2 part urethane, and undercoat down low (halfway down firewall)
below rear seat, on the outside.. inside is oem, still looking good, oem painted
engine arms driver side patched (jack at inspector garage stabbed it)
all channels opened and resealed with 18ga/16ga solid seamed shut
kyb struts
fixed two dents, (whole car)
in front of rear bumper custom ugly (tons stronger -found oem subaru error)
oem windshield (thick) sealed with windshield weld, and channels filled with ge silicone 2 after painting
oem paint code (ugly as of now- whole car but roof is repainted.)
rear quarters prefabbed for a sedan (both strengthened)
wheel arches prefabbed replacement part, outside and inside (triple double? quadruple?)
shift boot and #14 sheet screws
rear seat belt brackets no longer seen outside (welded in over a doubled seam)
floor corners (3 of 4)
strengthened floor seams from b-pillar back to rear (redundant now with extra floor beams)
evercoat undercoat/permatex undercoat
3m autobody silicone, interior wheel well seam (very neutral, expensive but worth no smells)
roof rack extended (64inch) on original dealer sold 1987 yakima rods (lightning struck- cool :))
caster rod bushings to latest revision (they do not look like original..much stronger)
3 inches wider at rear wheel arch, 99 inches at wheelbase (>2 inch gain), floor flat, rigid..trim can't even creak in the summers..and if it does...I don't stop until it is done.
gained reverse angle on rear struts (subframe very hardened and straight around the wheel wells)
LED license plate and front marker (saved 48 watts)
rivets at battery tray (I may go air locks- never welding there)
brakes:

1993 self bleeding cylinder (the 1987 original was oem errored :eek:)
premium drums and pads rear
new brake lines rear longer stronger
front rotors 9.5 inch (there is an 8.9, beware.. they all swap around)
50/50 split (all four work thier worth- do not try this on 2wd)
wheels/tires:

(8)15x6 peugeot..
(4)yokohama avid trz 205/60/15 (oem, modern subaru)
(12) 13x5 wheels
(4)13x5 studded snows
3 extremely high peformance oem hub caps.
This buggy has been a strange journey in physics lessons....
http://i227.photobucket.com/albums/dd255/soob87/old%20subaru/th_Picture0280003.jpg (http://s227.photobucket.com/albums/dd255/soob87/old%20subaru/?action=view&current=Picture0280003.jpg) my first subaru (click thumbnail) DL, manual steering, half a trim package, solid bench rear seat, carbed.. missing blank spots where gauges would go. single range pushbutton AWD. I drove this from jan 1997, took the windshield out and some other parts in 2005, and gave it away.

welding notes in post below.

the simple of then and now:
The 1987 "EGR"cams was 90% of all the drama..if not all of it. Alot of cars, same years...many makes fell for the craziest pollution standards of all freaking time (we as humanity will never see it again). Right down to crazy decay on chassis. The rake of suspension was not good for flows, left the engine hanging right out there. The concept of camber bolts in the front spindle clamp, useless..a steel too hard to even respond to the concept..right from the factory. this left manhandling springs and struts.. and even cracking at the rear crossmember.
and a silly tip I learned about these: the original clock has never failed. This indicates EGR never sent an electrical storm upward (that was only one of the dangers). This car gained the plastic tank infection from radiator. A you tube video gave me the epiphany about titanium grade alloy and a certain petroleum. By freak chance my car had the self replicating plastic maker virus. One drop can feed a ton.Peaked at blowing the front main seal out like it had a little bomb behind it. Cleaners for months left the engine dialing back into its centered runtime. I still have the old radiator as a momento. could stay warm for DAYS. I may for kicks, donate it to some dept at a local university if there is one into analyzing real world strangeness.

[Bu11dogg2]

That's not bad for a 23 year old car :)

what did you do to get the power increase?

[Bombay994]

awesome project, I'd go full off road with it now that youve got a the diff locked, but thats just me.

[Bu11dogg2]

Hey boxxer, where in Maine are you from?

[bratman18]

So did you build a Rear diff for this thing?? Because the stock ones are fully open.

[boxer3maine]

Engine/drivetrain (bold is perfomance makers)1781cc:

1994 spfi cams (ALOT more lift, all on same lobe height.)
solid lifters (a bit more more lift..)
gates (goodyear) hard timing belts (this car original could not use these)
professional products billet oil filter 10857 (I popped paper element ones in the winter)
double chambered vacuum advance (miracle) one side is progressive sunched with 2nd barrel, one side is oem hookup. this brought 7000 rpms..(and of course not enough to do in fourth and fifth gears)
flat top pistons (85-87 version)
CSF 933 brass copper radiator ( the ea82 has a performance version all on its own not eq to ea81)
1993 loyale oil pump, treated 450F 1.5 hours (sings like a bell :up: ,1987 has a nasty difference)
EGR system removed :

purge control valves
static indicator
thermal controlled vacuum valve
egr valve
ALL piping (wow :eek:)

a1 cardone water pump (modern update to impeller)
felpro permatorque headgaskets (pass side only, driver side has been attacked already with higher grade- always paired the same of course, I simply popped one)
57 foot pound update to cylinder heads bolt torque. (squish a bit more on the 18 head bolts)
heads mildly ported, (more to gain proper alignment than porting for power, of course gained a little)
accel v8 kit plug wires, (like old hot rod uses) copper wound/insulated/custom cut nearly equal length
steel cylinder head plug sleeves (slight compression increase, and a whole lot of "dwell" - can take any hot plug of today)
back to iridium spark plugs! (I did alot of work just to use these plugs)
Fuel air exhaust:

carter fuel pump
Full CAI
loyale air plenum on fender wall
accel coil (30% bigger for normal engines.. 300% bigger for an ea82 :) )
fuel filler tube (1987=steel, 1993=rustproof, part of 3psi fuel system..can't leak)
custom 2 inch equal header (t304 down pipes, t304 sleeves in heads)
badly functioning emissions rerouted (mostly fuel recirc)
carb cleaned
oem 1987 single entrance and exit cat (don't laugh, it is a high performance one)
fuel vent canister bi-metal loyale (no longer "radioactive" carbon)
cheap dynomax/walker custom welded (exploded at 2 years... no more, made it my own.)
custom axle 2.25 back, car is long for small engine, pipes got cold. Needed to make a lrge slow moving axle back setup..works great all year.
a gas note: Cannot use 87 octane. (never exceeded before)

1781cc original hitachi carbed
check valve heater core (synchs more than the core)
new distributor case (reluctor, springs, etc etc..bought as "new")
modified engine grounds (that means plural)
oversized intake bolts, galvanized SAE
tapped exhaust studs, 16mm to 12mm
super stant stainless 180F thermostat (45858)
peak antifreeze (no silicates or phoshpates)
alternator (also silently revised since 1987- materials? regulator?)
front main seal (fresh new, not old stock)
oil pump gaskets, stronger bolts (inspection)
valve covers replaced with 1993 loyale (stronger) and polished/urethaned
pcv route customed (proper float for valve)
engine clutch fan/half shroud
all open head holes bolted shut
wanted to give welding its own updated post.

sept 2011.

two mig machines, one was a carzy china, no safety labels (it exists, bought on ebay). the skill level needed was notmuch different than the other 115v, .25 inch capable.

the second one was bought at tractor supply, much smarter, and safety labeled. no kickbacks allowed in its function. This was good as that concerned me.. the old sube may have some "extra" hidden energy if you know what I mean.

the quantity of steel in square feet is difficult to add up.

a subaru fender hacked up for little patches.. (strangely used every inch of it)
prefabbed parts:

two new rockers
two wheel arches
two rear quarter
front left fender (changed before my purchase- thicker than oem)

a tailgate from a lawnmower tractor (ability to smash with dirt and more than 16ga thickness)
2 sheets of 24x48 18ga from millsupply (nothing left either one)
18 mig reels of e71-t (36 pounds)
>6 feet of steel rod (found a pile of .25 spring steel rods in an old house- odd find)
hacked up snap on tool box (baked)
20 ga baked box for sockets (needed small amount of thin to match oem)
power supply cover from my dell pc (SECC!)
aluminum house faciure
the burnt china welding machine is now the steel backing for the air dam
some of the sources are funny. I do know the good stuff from bad.:)
sept 2011 is a really strong finale for now..
Next is to make back end in front of bumper look good, and thicker.. a tube bumper with calss 2 hitch built in seems interesting goal.

[boxer3maine]

http://www.youtube.com/watch?v=OpJtfqTbId8

I got talking about boxer engines and angered a crowd.. this goes back older than the biggest baddest suby forum one could think of.

I then realized my "internet age" was above the average..some don't even know what a "3 main boxer" is. If one does... the only stupid opinion is their own brain hanging themself.

using mspaint in 2004 was the start to this simple animation.

finished off, also with freeware, called anim8or.

this engine went through war, porsche used it, did not invent it. First to make it famous could be lycoming.
1902 was the earliest one recorded, nesselsdorfer at 5.9 liters, 3 main bearings.
it has more than one world record, some donlt even attempt to get recorded.

A subaru story I read with the very ea82 I am tinkering with may have one in a home made superlight airplane. Arizona to the east coast, and broke 200mph and stayed there. incredible.
the only small thing about these engines from any origin is the person keeping it.

I would save more than one at a time if I could. It is beyond opinion to be prophetic to the situation of the gas world right now.

my goal is a simple one for this..
a modern centered cam timing and 110-115hp , that is the world standard for 1.8 liters, regular gas for manufactures. I'll just fix that little error for subaru and call it good.

[Bu11dogg2]

Nice vids!

[boxer3maine]

reserved

Do Not Scrap An American EA engine. :)

[Bu11dogg2]

that plug is filthy!

[boxer3maine]

reserved

[Bu11dogg2]

What color are you going with?

[boxer3maine]

What color are you going with?

original paint code, dupont...just as dual ranged as original, except as new without fade it is a red brown versus pink (thank god)

I look forward to this outside chore in the clean shade.

Looking underneath today, as everythng is critical at this age, jacking it up, listening for creaks, etc.. doing very well. I cannot even explain with out a small novel the welding I did..it had a lot of freakin welding!

http://i227.photobucket.com/albums/dd255/soob87/old%20subaru/th_centercap.jpg (http://s227.photobucket.com/albums/dd255/soob87/old%20subaru/?action=view&current=centercap.jpg)

as this seems a rare combo, I spent way too much for one time chore with 3 inch hole saw bit and high grade aluminum, hard like titanium, and very "heatsinkish" (if you know what I mean).

...looking cheaper than they really are. :unamused:

the ride is smooth again onto working operating temps. subes as they get older do this, things get stubborn etc...never to find an error, they are just simply getting older. high temp valvoline synthetic grease is in the wheel berings, that is also proving to be very nice.

meanwhile, car is looking ugly, bumpy dirty, etc. Not long to wait now.

[boxer3maine]

this is a boring post, nothing to see here.

but if you do run the oversize treads on the old subes, it may be interesting or important.

http://i227.photobucket.com/albums/dd255/soob87/old%20subaru/1bolt1.jpg

I decided to attack a bolt I broke in the lower strut mount, I had to grind the weld I put in two years ago (?) and break the bolt in the middle, making it broken twice. Then drill..after removing all I had to to gain the correct angle. The oe bolt was bent, stuck, and luckily, softer than the bit..which needed sharpening twice to get the chore done. I then left the hole oversized to put a very hard bolt and nut in, proper length shank..and away it goes..better than oe...as the bolt now has room to allow the clamping action to seat exactly where it has to. OE bolts were threaded into the strut mount..and it is indeed strange to ponder a proper fit. the bolt would have to bend everytime. This fixed that problem. I will replicate it to the other side sometime.This bolt not tight even affects the inner wheel bearing. Mine was tight with a clamp and weld, and could have kept it there..but if to want new struts, it ought to be normal.

this piece broken would have made for a long night after half a day already... it holds all parts of the front end in one way or another..be careful.

edit: off to the left of strut mount, the bolt dangling, that is a ea82 cylinder head bolt, with a nut and washers, put through the middle hole of the engine crossmember. that is another strengthening worthwhile, drops right in, meant to exist. This hole left open by oe, only had me wondering if the wagons were meant to hold a flat six from the old xt.... I coud only guess, as subaru did go silently belly up with these subes. I found alot of secret and even funny things with this car, will post randomly.

edit1: and it has been a day since repairs. I have a private log I keep, and wanted to take a quote from it, in relation to the old subaru.


7pm. Just went for a walk with the sube. First run down the highway with strut bolt in… I almost sh** at how smooth that buggy is. Not a sign of a shimmy, wiggle, grind thump or shake… I am winning precision after all. I have actually never been in a sube that did not have something to shake about, from cold to warm, or whatever it was…it is a good feeling…at 23 years old, I am the keeper, this is all the evidence I need.


I am in at least 200 hours of labor since oct 2006... it is a good occasion this year.

[boxer3maine]

This is an update in relation to the welding...
I took my own sube to 3 layers, a spring steel rod in the middle, except the legth of the rockers and not the b-pillar. As it turns out, some newer subarus did the very same thing by oem standards:
http://forums.nasioc.com/forums/showthread.php?t=946826

I wonder where the idea came from? :eek:

freakishly coincidental.. I built the same thing on my own...and it really works.

just a thought to ponder.

Just when old suby owners get beaten into a gutter and ignored...here come the backyard fixes as oe production.:unamused:

[Bu11dogg2]

Has this always been a Maine car?

[boxer3maine]

Has this always been a Maine car?
nope. It has an alaskan title, and dealer sticker.. (still in business, found it in google).
in 1992, the title showed 13k miles...maybe an elderly person owned it.
the roof has a sunburn, like southern dry states.. I knew it sat long enough to gain anodize, petrify, etc. If not for this, 140hours of weld would have been a lot longer and frustrating. I destroyed my first sube, an 87 DL... all maine. It happened so fast... inspection six months prior would not even make sense. The car lost its belly pan math...all done. without expensive laser aligning of pro body work shops, I had to let it go.



http://i227.photobucket.com/albums/dd255/soob87/old%20subaru/th_sube_accidentbw.jpg (http://s227.photobucket.com/albums/dd255/soob87/old%20subaru/?action=view&current=sube_accidentbw.jpg)

I hacked this grille from my first sube (speaking of unlikely high miles)
it has the same history as the windshield, above is the parallelogrammed front end I pulled it off of, this was its second car, 200k miles. Survived a wreck.. why not keep using it.

http://i227.photobucket.com/albums/dd255/soob87/old%20subaru/th_grille2.jpg (http://s227.photobucket.com/albums/dd255/soob87/old%20subaru/?action=view&current=grille2.jpg)

decided to dremel and paint.. found a trick 5 years ago, to keep crud out from hood lip, and dramatically cool, even the injected sube (ea82).. it is the four extra slots up top, drilled and dremeled. I am a horrifying chainsaw type artist, so, it is still ugly, like my car.

awaiting some good weather.. a welding mask on order... and a last leap of luck to finish this off.

[boxer3maine]

I decided to make a list more for the unknowing.. as the ea engines are shipped to the world retarded.. I do not mean opinion, I mean the power is retarded/hindered/squashed. Here is how simple it is to fly onto the short onramp from broadway bangor, and be doing the speed limit at the end.. (with the mudders on)

cold air intake.. source must come from outside
egr removed and plugged at the heads
carb system needs 3psi pump, and total remake of custom air breather (it was designed for two carbs)
injected needs stiff tunnel, maybe venturi (I choose venturi)
lube all bearings/cv high temp synthetic
upgrade coil with accel super stock (street legal- meant for direct replacement)
this one was extremely important for ea82 to advance fast: grab some pro wires, such as accel copper wound for old hot rods,that allow you to cut to length..make them all nearly equal..but not equal
13 inch wheels absolutely must go...the tire rating was exceeded from day one..this could be the major reason subaru retarded the engine so awfully bad..
2 out of my 3 subes had pinched oil pump gaskets from the factory, the nick name for them is "mickey mouse gasket"
some oil pump bolts have to go.. they are the same as the fenders (how cheap can that get)
kyb struts for the rear is afix for a hundred complaints...
double up the rocker panels..it is indeed a beam for ea subarus.. (and I did take note on the impreza coupes)
scrap resonator for a hollow chamber (carb only)
scrap all pipes aft of convertor for 2 inch (again, part of the engine retarding)
I chose to check alignment of intake ports, and I ported by hand with a dremel (casting rib)
and all 3 of my ea82s, needed dramatic tightening in the cam casings...really bizarre coincidence? do not know...it did stop valves from max lift, coinciding with engine retard intentional..
there is several power suckers electrically...driveshaft, internal channels, all need paint, simply so. Even the rear end and trans can take a thin layer.
This is all I could remember from my previous list posted... will add stuff. The 3 main boxer has an extremely advantageous runtime, it can be opened safely ...

[98Wagoon]

you've got more mods done to your engine/car than I think Ive had in every car Ive owned :lol:

sounds like it can definitely be a sneaky little wagon that would go quite unnoticed on the highways. my kind of car!

[ValuePack]

I am a horrifying chainsaw type artist

:lol:

This thread is *packed* with win. Keep it up, good to see someone keeping an EA alive.

[boxer3maine]

Today. new hub arrived. the rear left gets attacked by engine runtime physics (all U.S. subes like the left side of the car) and the grotesque combos that slither thier way out of exhaust pipes, gasses from engine, and 23 years. part of the fun is comparing old to new..

http://i227.photobucket.com/albums/dd255/soob87/old%20subaru/newhub.jpg

the old one would get some interesting loss measurements by a machinist, I have no tools to determine. By eyeball alone it has ground its way down over the years.

I also found a site that sells led bulbs. I am swapping all "194" (license plate,markers etc). I took the back trim off that holds them, all 6 bolts broke,and patiently took a dremel tool to clean it up. Will get photos of led in and aluminum cleaned and painted. On old subarus this aluminum piece (right below rear window) is like an ionizer with 194 bulbs.. low voltage leak gathering peoples nasties.. the very low watt leds will be welcome. :)

[98Wagoon]

wow! the original hub looks frightening! the new one might feel too clean while driving! :lol: keep up the good work on this old girl!

[boxer3maine]

wow! the original hub looks frightening! the new one might feel too clean while driving! :lol: keep up the good work on this old girl!

if it were daily driven, all the frustrations that can happen.. I really would have given up. It is in a position now to just be registered, and well under 10k miles a year.

I did get the bar below window back in, awaiting bulbs..
Reasons some scrapped these cars, I have stayed patient with, here is from my private blog today..


the bar under the window is painted, added 6 more bolts and nuts, waiting lights..have one to chisel away, then away it goes. the tailgate needs attention this year, the inside I painted a couple of years ago, good thing I did. I then welded last year the bottom seam, added filler. Not even dust is building…and that was with bolt holes open. Resonance tells me I am winning anyway. The whole ass end of the car needs to be welded to win the tailgate sucking at everything.. you won when it stops.
Still no LED bulbs in the mail. I do not have 21 lights in all after all.. there is only 14. My ambition for the exterior lights going all LED is done. I do not like the 194 bulbs, got learned of those years ago (the sockets are all bad, all the time).. so, I will stop at 4 leds to replace those..over 25% lights changed, and a whole pile of watts dropped.

[Bu11dogg2]

talk about having passion for a car

[boxer3maine]

talk about having passion for a car

much less than it appears apparently.. I am exactly the opposite. Car just sitson the side of the road, has yet to be pansied in a garage. It even gets smacked by the city plow wake in the winter.. all winter...
I did not mention the very sube I am in was hit by lightning, like the one before it. Knowing physics was going to have to be conquered to continue as a daily... Physics goes along with my motivation.The lamps and lights is no doubt one of those subjects, after a double decade....

I took a picture recently of a rusty hub refracting light...rainbow right on the ground..absolutely bizarre. that is an abyss of density one would not even find on a fighter jet.

the "passion" is out of danger. People do not even want to know cars...that is a plague. I am normal, simply fixing things...admitting 50 year old war planes as a learning to get me going is hardly ashame. :lol:

I do enjoy myself.

I am curious about the other 20+ subes, I see the legacy is at twenty now. I wonder what the unique creaks and moans and petrifying etc is...alot similar no doubt.

[boxer3maine]

I get kinda excited when something newer works. The single bulb led is unbelievable.I swapped it for the 194 roasters.. This killed all heat, leaves aluminum alone, lets the snow fly away and uses alot less to run. No more iron color...

cost? $1.39:)

http://i227.photobucket.com/albums/dd255/soob87/old%20subaru/ledlightspalte.jpg

wasn't going to mention it, but I really like it. I hope others swap out the headlights in brightness at thier license plate lights too.. my old sube lit up a darn parking lot just by where the 194 bulbs would go in the photo.. the led is very focused...simple annoyance conquered.

[boxer3maine]

Past two days gathered some things for this weekend (I am limited to weekends)

new hub arrived, need to weld up ratchet for the 200 pounds I must have locked the axle into :cool:

a stainless steel hose barb (weldable), for the high pressure tank swap, and some custom strengthening to weld on as well, as I did weld up a spot on the unibody subaru oem let go back and forth through the seasons, I must make the tank play too...(I am a hypermiler)

and... a 2x4 foot sheet of 18 guage at 17 pounds arrived today, excellent quality, virgin cold rolled from mill supply. this is going to various smaller projects in the left wheel well, very rear of car (I decided to remove aluminum and make it official: a completely 3000 pound tanker sube)

..and some weld on the beginning of rear trail arms, increasing psi, stop cold to warm rumbles. (The old sube is that freakin tight)

I see rain for saturday..but at least am going for the hub install.

[subarufreak]

I have just found this site and am completely enthralled with your subaru!
I have a few questions on your magnificent beast of a subaru.
You mentioned you're running six cylinder heads!! Are they from the er27? do they stick off the end of the block or did you cut them? I'm intrigued to find out how you boosted the power like this!

Also, I have a question about your locking diff. Since I drive my subaru on off road trails to get to work in the country I'm interested in the exact process you followed in order to make your diff lock in the rear! Mine is open and locking it would be really cool! Also, would your mod work to lock the front diff when backing up?!!!

[boxer3maine]

I have just found this site and am completely enthralled with your subaru!
I have a few questions on your magnificent beast of a subaru.
You mentioned you're running six cylinder heads!! Are they from the er27? do they stick off the end of the block or did you cut them? I'm intrigued to find out how you boosted the power like this!

Also, I have a question about your locking diff. Since I drive my subaru on off road trails to get to work in the country I'm interested in the exact process you followed in order to make your diff lock in the rear! Mine is open and locking it would be really cool! Also, would your mod work to lock the front diff when backing up?!!!

the six cylinder heads means I have six of them. silly misinterpretation.
I have hacked two for cooling flows of my choice, ported, reamed, and next is valves removed and more dremel caressing with a diamond cutter/shaver (very very hard heads if you have ever played with the porting)

The diff lock revealed itself after welding both rockers to double, tripling the wheel arches, doubling the interior wheel wells, and building a hidden frame from from b-pillar to c-pillar...and it only works in 4-lo. It is some mechanical version of what some 1980s xt/rx had with buttons (lock/unlock) the front drive only goes to lsd on my own, never lockup. Very clever. I did not expect that reward for welding...

and in backing up, strange that you mention it..everyhting locks up in any 4wd mode (lo or hi).. don't know why it does that either. In fact it digs in deep enough, I choose the lo option on any grade backing up..four hi is riding the clutch forever.

and an update, hopefully for this weekend, I grabbed 2 more pounds of mig wire, crossing the 20 pound mark ... where oh where did it go...:dunno:

I will be adding some lines to the trailing arms, I like the animal flex like camber, but it is too much, and only cure is welding.

[boxer3maine]

I really wanted to check out some hot rod subes today.. but had these chores to do.

http://i227.photobucket.com/albums/dd255/soob87/old%20subaru/th_breaker4.jpg (http://s227.photobucket.com/albums/dd255/soob87/old%20subaru/?action=view&current=breaker4.jpg)

I finally went crazy over my billionth time shatterring the guts of my lifetime guaranteed ratchet, and made a breaker bar out of it... you may have guessed, just for the 200 ft carzy pound axle nuts (driver side is always crazy tight)

After moving the car in 4lo and ebrake on, with weight of car completely on the spindle.. it loosened to the heavier duty breaker easily.

http://i227.photobucket.com/albums/dd255/soob87/old%20subaru/th_newhub-1.jpg (http://s227.photobucket.com/albums/dd255/soob87/old%20subaru/?action=view&current=newhub-1.jpg)
I wanted to share this as I found an unusual error.. the spindle hole was stretched in the old hub. Wiggles be gone. I knew it was not a bearing..the new hub had to be rubber malleted on, tight fit.

http://i227.photobucket.com/albums/dd255/soob87/old%20subaru/th_newpads5.jpg (http://s227.photobucket.com/albums/dd255/soob87/old%20subaru/?action=view&current=newpads5.jpg)

and threw in some new pads while apart. inspected, cleaned stuff.
I passed the chore of newer tank today, I simply filled it 3 times (45 gallon flush) and left it open for possibly next weekend... I want no vapors for the welding I am going to do. that would not be a great idea to have vapors... :unamused:
I want to share this chore, as the body is way harder than oem now, (the tank is hard mounted normally).. I am going to add urethane strips to seperate signals...will post some photos. This should add to my hypermiling quest..starting with a quieter fuel tank, mounted softly.

and last for today.. I inspected the rear bumper that got hit last fall.. and it is indeed toast. I still need a bumper (loyale wagon) in bangor area.

[boxer3maine]

did some welding today, two volcanoes erupted. private joke.. sube and chenobyl.. blahh who cares. :dunno:

as it turns out the left wheel well is caustic.. pried at stuff today after hearing a creak on the 93 degree day.. oh my god...self destructed in two years, took new metal with it. welded up (extremely thorough) some important subframing (way beyond oe of course) The photos are horrible, but attempted taking a few shots anyway..
http://i227.photobucket.com/albums/dd255/soob87/old%20subaru/th_wwell2.jpg (http://s227.photobucket.com/albums/dd255/soob87/old%20subaru/?action=view&current=wwell2.jpg)

added a rod and tighly sealed mini bulkhead for the channel with 18 guage (the real 18 guage, not the japanese 18 guage) sheet metal. this is solid seamed ...I do this for all the subframe skins with weld. the auto dim mask makes a precise job easy.. I don't even use fillers. This takes some hours.. but carbon weld seam where an idiot was is well worth it.

http://i227.photobucket.com/albums/dd255/soob87/old%20subaru/th_wwellm2010008.jpg (http://s227.photobucket.com/albums/dd255/soob87/old%20subaru/?action=view&current=wwellm2010008.jpg)
this is to decipher the top photo and where it is at. notice the bump stop is all but nonexistent. just dangling, I welded it in for the framing, filling in tomorrow (fire hazard warning, perfect)
:)

the poison smells like peppermint, if anyone knows what that is.. it eats steel, and eats it fast. It did leave the subframing alone however. the thin skin wheel wells do not have a chance...and it is extremely local. I found it is hiding on top of the strut tower.. I literally have to grind the wheel well away entirely tomorrow, will get some shots.

good chance to make the half ton truk'n suby I was always wanted...

[bratman18]

This is why you don't weld over the rust. It's going to happen again too. You really need to remove all that rust, and then add new sheet metal. Makes all the difference. The rust will just continue to eat from the inside out....

[boxer3maine]

This is why you don't weld over the rust. It's going to happen again too. You really need to remove all that rust, and then add new sheet metal. Makes all the difference. The rust will just continue to eat from the inside out....

good point. I am glad you did not call me an idiot .Already knew this..but is helpful. even then, rust can be conquered. feeding the old thin jap iron is a patient task. the carbon mig wire wins..

http://i227.photobucket.com/albums/dd255/soob87/old%20subaru/wheelwell2b.jpg

...as long as there no means to gain chemicals. The yellow circle is where I had to feed some bad steel.. the intricate perfect shape subaru made it ..pressed in ribs, an exact angle..and it goes beyond what is seen to outside. I could not imagine snipping that out.I fed it very slowly... I also refused to put the bolt of seatbelt through the darn wheel well.. I welded it in.
I also deleted oe bump stop, making my own, using the real framing of the car instead of the oem mentality.
I did not get a final photo, but can soon enough.

this weld is significant in that, the very last seven inches of channel skin was broken to my hammer. the entire car, front to back, inside channel to out has been modified with thicker steel, and carbon wire. I can say I learned what to do with rust...quite an experience. As the car is very light, there is road stresses I could swear are double the weight of the car... I went way beyond.

Scarier than rust indiced by chemistry , is applying galvanized to the sube.. the reaction is powerful. The steel I chose was american source, 18 guage (japans .25 inch!).

..and one last thing to note.. the switcjes in door jams that kick on the inside light... all four doors the ends are touching the inner frame, like holes got misaligned.. seeing all the channels and design is smart, the rust was beweildering, very precise. I have only narrowed an answer to the switches short circuiting (I also had dim lights at an idle- and car got struck by lightning.)

off to painting.

summary.. 9th mig reel, 140 pounds of steel...over 150 hours, 4 summers (limited to nice weekends)...

at least a dozen grinding discs, 3 welding masks..

and satisfaction. :)

[Bu11dogg2]

I guess I don't undertand why you keep welding.

This car is most likely unsafe in any collision.

[boxer3maine]

I guess I don't undertand why you keep welding.

This car is most likely unsafe in any collision.

Thanks for your horrible uneducated opinion. Did I not list one end of this car welded top the other?
it is quite the opposite of typical J-tin sir...all oem 20 guage has fallen like 23 years dictates. The rest is mine. a tad thicker with american measurements. :eek:

The hit and run on steep cumberland street told me alot. The rear quarter mangled the bumper... if that is any indication what j-tin does when I am done with it, we could have a head on crash up derby sometime. the front is 3 mm welded thicker than the welded back.I wonder what the front will do.. given i have wrecked one of these in the 70s mph. :D
some great hillbilly primal testosterone filled fun. I won't tug at my dads 14000 pound rig stuck in the driveway again. :lol:
another very important fact for doubters... the 4 lo has a 4 wheel lock up..and this car still cruises at 92 fot the 110 miles I normally take. Good luck in your own car attempting that one.

anyway, gave it a horrifying paint job this weekend. Needs a jumbo sprayer to continue. I stopped at nearly a quart of urethane for the lower half of the car.The iridescent paint was 90 bucks (with proper catalyst this time) and a lengthy conversation with the paint man. Very very interesting stuff that does not get used very often. Subaru did really play with chemistry in the 80s. The combo leads to blood red and brown..both metallic. I really wanted this chore done, as 23 years original faded to pink and light brown, and well...it was "icky", like feminine and crap at the same time...piggish. If I am what I drive, the bumpy welds and imperfect color is getting close enough to me.:lol:
wheel arches seams are approaching impossible to keep smooth by my own standards.. and my own standards are four years stubborn.

There is a fairy tale with a machine..and there is one with a builder. If a tripled GL with custom frame can't survive... why bother with someone elses evolution.

http://i227.photobucket.com/albums/dd255/soob87/old%20subaru/th_paintjul32010004.jpg (http://s227.photobucket.com/albums/dd255/soob87/old%20subaru/?action=view&current=paintjul32010004.jpg)

I can only add yet another quart of urethane to get over the textural base... may get that sometime soon, or wait a year. This is a maine piece, not a fairy tale.

TODO:
right rear well is already doubled over, with welds..I do not like it however strong it is. I want to delete bump stop, mini-bulkhead the frame and reskin forward part to mimick the left one. As torque dispersal goes, the left is the one that gets pulverized, the right tries to squeeze together. Explains the dramatic difference from one side to the other.

Some small scabs to weld in, I have been lucky enough to keep what I wanted open, it is ready to put back closer to oem. Being sure chemistry of EGR and other madness is all done. the car has been calm for quite some time...My health would have scrapped an impossiblity.

right front still has a weirdo.. a torque steer. I know to target thius after finished with rear left..to make a judgement then (rear left is in direct relation to the right front over 100hp)..sway bar from rx? I would weld in the bracket and try it. But for now. I got steel, and a mig..could straight shot a 60k psi piece.

that is about it for this one..routine of repairs has been going along like clockwork and manuals.

[boxer3maine]

here is another shot of the well, without seatbelt and bump stop. It is a relief of aerodynamics just to look at.
I checked on it today, and found the outer draglink bracket broken.. Upon digging farther, the outer pipe holding the bracket needed some replenishing...all this after welding subframe and wheel well. I could guess the fire of undercoat and weld sparks, finally revealed the weakness...and I am quite certain, the old well had a caustic power I never want to meet again. This could have failed just by beaing near the old well skin.. I banged it around and exfoliation was immediate.
If you have owned a gl or dl..odds are you know this repair. It was #1, aside from EGR exhaust errors...and carbed version gas tanks. This particular GL has all the known errors. Not any left that I can think of as of now.

http://i227.photobucket.com/albums/dd255/soob87/old%20subaru/th_weldsJuly5thweb.jpg (http://s227.photobucket.com/albums/dd255/soob87/old%20subaru/?action=view&current=weldsJuly5thweb.jpg)

I fed this outrageous amount of mig, reskinned with 18 guage, to slavage the remains (whatever is left is always the toughest). One of these years, I ponder the inspection guy just looking in disbelief. :unamused:

and the sound of an older impreza went by while working. Nice. Kept my old sube motivation.:)

[boxer3maine]

jumped up looking forward to some cold ocean fog, 430 am.
I am taking my last exit home, broadway...brake pedal to the floor. No loss of fluid. Having been through this routine more times than I care to remember...(never in 13 years of subarus..)
I swapped in a 1994 loyale master cylinder. I knew it was the error right away. Different wire hookups (low fluid light) but hooked it up anyway, without changing the top.
Sure enough a different world of braking.
I may guess there is 3 reivisions on the same master body... 85-87 is the worst (don't even rebuild them)
1987-1989 are a little better, and of course the finale is late model loyale. I shoulda noted the number differences. Been playing tricks with this for 4 years, could not decipher it...simply a bad body with good seals.

The loyale master cylinder is alot better.
a freaky note: broadway exit is where an outback lost brakes and smacked a pole (last year?) seems coincidental to my event this morning. Lucky, I kept left side of car braking (very very odd error)..

I hope the old sube runners take this advice if they are on the road. The oldest master cylinder bodies are bad,(1985-1989) even after a rebuild kit.:)

[ValuePack]

I guess I don't undertand why you keep welding.

This car is most likely unsafe in any collision.

That being said, these wouldn't take a hit when they were new, a quarter century ago.

Nice to see another old bird kept on the road... it's criminal how these ran and drove so well but rusted so completely.

[boxer3maine]

That being said, these wouldn't take a hit when they were new, a quarter century ago.

Nice to see another old bird kept on the road... it's criminal how these ran and drove so well but rusted so completely.

They are difficult if to respect oem.

My first dl was so bad, it popped a belly pan to measurements impossible.My Bro n law wound me up and got me to weld it. I ended up using box beam from a 1946 mobile home... and it needed every bit of it (three times as thick.) The dl did not have doubled arms in the belly. This killed it dramartically. the current GL I am working is not only doubled, there is an extra c-shaped beam I have never seen in this generation... this was the inspiration to keep going.

So as this current sube is doubled, tripled and surfaced psi... no braces. (I am being a smart ass this way- I want it looking all oem, it is a silly silent vengeance).

I am now down to final resonance keepers intended by oem.. the outer drag link tabs became it's latest target. It is like squeezing a steel sponge into 60,000 psi where there was something much weaker.
I'd love to rip a forestor in half with it some time. :devil:

anyway, ten gears and lock up diff, I can now do anything with it, front suspension even stays soft in any gear in both 4wd modes.. this means the back is now the back and the front is now the front. The OEM unibody used to transfer stuff around crazy like. I do respect the belly pan on this one, and the engine arms are clearly disciplined a bit more than the others from this generation. Subaru did know the ten gears was a tough one to keep. the back end was the disappontment, along with the rockers. All of this is crazy redone, (extremely WAY redone) It has been a challenge, and worth every bit of its rarity and facts of the 3 mains.

I learned of these from brand new. I got a heads up truthfully over 20 years ago...never let the dual range go to the pansy. It is the best project I have done, even beyond my v8 hot rods.

long live the subes. I love the hacks by alot of threads here, inspirational.

[boxer3maine]

3 days for this one..
I decided to gut the interior, a creaking noise was driving me nuts..

I found two missing beams a cracked tunnel in two places, a chunk missing and the center carrier, right mount was free to do as it pleases...
http://i227.photobucket.com/albums/dd255/soob87/old%20subaru/subebigweldAug2010nes.jpg

I knew there was something missing. the white beams are 1.25, by 3.25 by 18 inches, hand rolled, and hammer welded.. there is a unique geomttry not only strengthening between the b-pillars, but it carries the center carrier. I got a bunch of other chores done as well.
Today is the day, I went past a 4x8 sheet of plywood, in sheet metal. (over 32 square feet has been replaced or strengthened)

A ride down the road, and waht I thought was a twisted seat this whole time was the tunnel.. now a nice ridgid chassis, the left trailing rear has proven to be a trick knee..must have stayed content with a bent body. one more day, I hope to get all this done.
:)
http://i227.photobucket.com/albums/dd255/soob87/old%20subaru/subebigweldAug2010web1.jpg

here is the outline in the floor that subaru never used. It was put there by subaru. This explains all other welding, and 11 other mig reels.. I should have doubted the car more than my discipline already does. (I simply made the rocker panels outrageous in strength making up for something I know was not strong enough.. now it has all it is supposed to be.. with beyond a double bonus.)

if subaru is not embarrassed, they should be.

and here is my purty weld... same solid seaming went into the rear end. Welding an ass cheek when I should have fixed a broken back bone.. anyway, the worlds biggest suby engine can squeeze into this old gl now..and for some time to come.
http://i227.photobucket.com/albums/dd255/soob87/old%20subaru/subebigweldAug2010solid.jpg

[98Wagoon]

its amazing the entire beam was missing out of the car. perhaps it rotted out long ago and someone before you just removed it? or was it just never put in.. :shrug:

[boxer3maine]

its amazing the entire beam was missing out of the car. perhaps it rotted out long ago and someone before you just removed it? or was it just never put in.. :shrug:

never put in. Even the floor tar indicated it. I did ponder a 2wd chassis mix up by subaru... I have had the 3 offerings, a 2wd, single range dl, and this GL..
it is funny.

the 2wd had the strongest trailing arms, The dl with tall gears had the weakest engine arms , the gl has a missing backbone for ten gear transmission... like a sick joke ya know? I have been lucky like that.
All for that genius drivetrain. (I mean it) :)

I knew it needed dramatic, my others did too. All tools purchased have been to expect this type of work for the sube.

http://i227.photobucket.com/albums/dd255/soob87/old%20subaru/subebigweldAug2010nes1.jpg

here is the other fix, that should not need to happen again. I had to make from what you do not see, out to what you do. Stronger than ever. Thi, believe it or not with 3 hefty bolts is simply for a jacking point..does nothing to aid in the rear end stability (not a darn thing). that single bolt in the back can stay there all by itself, without the bracket. The strong mount for the rear is the back one (not seen in photo). Yet another strange thing they did. I humor it for state inspections.

[Seraphinwolf]

Interesting...

[boxer3maine]

http://i227.photobucket.com/albums/dd255/soob87/old%20subaru/underhoodAug2010.jpg

here is some more photos. I grabbed what I could see under the hood with the "good" stuff. For some odd reason, it looks cherry under the hood, and brownish external. Must be oem primer differenced. two part urethane, reducer, catalyst for base coat, and baked in, over 120 degrees, and localized with a heat gun (engine did the rest)
Note the rare 15 inch spare.... this was the indicator that the 10 geared GL with the 1 year paint code, had its alloy wheels stolen, or never installed many years ago (all 13 inch wheels failed on this subaru) :(

this car would be junked and done without the peugeot miracle alloys.

http://i227.photobucket.com/albums/dd255/soob87/old%20subaru/rockerredone.jpg

here is the rocker panel redone yet again (3rd time, 3 years). with the new beams installed, this is acting like it has no work to do. This is one lucky overdone subaru.. I had to exceed all beams, avoiding the missing one..

work notes: e71g mig reel #12 is empty. Going for one more.. to grab small details.

[bratman18]

All 4WD older Subarus had 15" spares. The 2WD ones came with 14"

[boxer3maine]

Some know how extreme 12 mig reels of wire dumped into a little sube might be.. upon summarizing what has been done in the past 3... ALOT could have been avoided if I found this error first go at inspecting. A panel could have stayed a panel, the rockers just rockers, wheel arches just wheel arches.. but no. I built the entire car around this error smack dab in the middle of the car...It remained elusive due to a double lined tunnel
hope this helps you lift kit big bad sube wannabes.
:)
http://i227.photobucket.com/albums/dd255/soob87/old%20subaru/subebigweldAug2010carrier.jpg

and here is from the cars diary. From may/jun 2009 till now, it is enough to be glad I wrote stuff.. I would not in a million years remember all of it.:unamused:

Upon welding the end of the carrier bracket outside in the tunnel, The yellow line became the burn marks of exactly how centered my hammer welded beam is to it. Very lucky.. It made my day to see the marks after finishing underneath…
Thinking back, about a year now, I remember describing a glowing silver near the carrier, this was last year.. like the car was trying to weld itself.. without the welder. It was within a minute after finishing welding something on the rocker. Hovered there like a star..I was in awe just to look at it.This mystery must coincide with resonant frequency and continuity. This year, the spot that did this? It needed the attention… more than a coincidence. I will not be forgetting this about cars. The subaru taught me..
The forward thinking is that the beams installed and wheel well geometry are gonna need the maine full winter to realize just what kind of truck sube I have made. They get harder as time goes along. Low voltage and a car on rubber tires. The rockers response was miraculous.. but it did need a whole year. I guess 18gauge, real steel, un-anodized must do this. pre-anodized shapes slapped in like a puzzle hardly earn with the shaping does manually. It is a reward for the labor.

[boxer3maine]

tearing into the old sube has some secrets falling out.
mystery tag found under rug:
http://i227.photobucket.com/albums/dd255/soob87/old%20subaru/cartagWeb.jpg

so I looked it up with google maps (http://maps.google.com/maps?f=d&source=s_d&saddr=bangor+maine&daddr=3100+Tongass+Ave,+Ketchikan,+Ketchikan+Gatew ay,+Alaska+99901&hl=en&geocode=FZ6cqwIdqojm-ym9KREQRkuuTDF3dq-nsBgJTQ%3BFXKiTAMdqKEm-Cn1fjx9uSUMVDGZr-nmHVfklQ&mra=pd&mrcr=0&sll=54.775346,-100.722656&sspn=65.26749,98.4375&ie=UTF8&ll=47.872144,-100.195312&spn=51.141526,104.941406&z=3)
4009 miles and a ferry ride
makes west coast to east usa kinda pipsqueak.

http://i227.photobucket.com/albums/dd255/soob87/old%20subaru/bangalska.jpg

then I took a street view shot...couple aof subes there today.somewhere in the early 90s, this car was in this area. I could have guessed it to be beautiful. Maybe I drive it back there... for something to do.. with the original drivetrain in my "dainty" subaru...

http://i227.photobucket.com/albums/dd255/soob87/old%20subaru/subesk.jpg

[98Wagoon]

its amazing to see a place the car has seen, yet you had no idea until then that it had been there at all..

[boxer3maine]

its amazing to see a place the car has seen, yet you had no idea until then that it had been there at all..


it is the distance from here... and thought of the fog of pacific ocean.. at a latitude that plays with northern lights...

a dream trip for me.

Todays work notes include a moment of real justice to my welding.. as I have broken the rear end, found a cracked tunnel in 3 places, obvious bent and gone back straight..
I played with a camber adjustment, the onlky one known to an old sube without manhadling a weld.. and it fell right into place... I mean right on the money, Dead on...

if this is bragging about me and my work more than the old subaru.. so be it. :D

I also found the bumper responded to a heat gun, and took the hit and run appearance out with some time...

will grab yet more photos.

crawling under the belly, and letting sink in what I have welded.. I have only concluded:

I have built a little monster. :devil:

here is a shot of the rear camber that fell right into place... with less than 1/8th asmerican inch to play with.
http://i227.photobucket.com/albums/dd255/soob87/old%20subaru/camber2.jpg

..and I do sound brash sometimes about an old sube, like I do not want to fix it, or it is too much. it is the opposite for many reasons I could call genius. It is a respectable rarity, I hope to see someone tackle any EA engine subaru and win beyond oem in some way. they give a good head start for builders.

http://i227.photobucket.com/albums/dd255/soob87/old%20subaru/carpet1.jpg

I spoke of rust like it was horrifying, but the fact is the car took a hit before I got it (there s no doubts about it) and kept going for at least 15 years following the silent incident...
this is the rug , drivers side, 23 years old. I have never openbed the door and got an old car musty smell...not once. Subaru also has a means for the car to cleanse itself, I am certain it utilizes convection, and the rocker panels as an exit. so if you do have a rusty rocker, it is most likely a result of the car winning in another way: keeping the interior self cleaned. I use no colognes or miracles of odor killing, (the less chemicals the better it goes with my illness) the sube is a good choice for this mentality.

it is more than fun with an old sube once deciphering them. Not many do what they do with the way they do it... :)



oh, Odd fact I had in my other build thread.. someone asked about height via the manuals measurement a long time ago. The 1985-87 GL is indeedthe tallest EA engine subaru.. this photo is just that. With bigger tires, I can gently place a hammer (16 inch framer) between the ground and bumper.. hence height is 16 inches. The manual has it in 14 inches and some 32nds (weird). this is no lift kit.

...and a last update for the welded beams:
I forgot to take it down the highway final test.. so I did, and world of difference. my backside noticed it, and the front end really is some type of tighter than open, LSD under hard acceleration reminded me of my older v8 coupe. From a stop, a quick wiggle right then left, the a straight shot down the middle. This is how my GL started off in 2007... I was thinking of an event that altered it before my hit and run..and it could only be the plow truck in january 2008, (that broke the weak rear end)

so this makes it 3 lightnings (violent/altered the car)
a plow truck
a hit and run
and chemical problem when I first bought it pulverized the left side structure skins/panels.

quite a recovery, and better than the norm no doubt.
the right front camber has one more trick to fix it by oe type instructions, and then it is manhandling the spindle carrier if it does not work.


I really recommend those beams under the seat.. and I would even build somebodies for them. I found the outside world knows the negative pressure is there, and the engine heat avoids the floor pan. car is at least 30 degrees cooler in this heat than it used to be.. vents stayed vents for the ride, no abnormal. And lo and behold, somebody in the past liked cologne.. as if I reeled in some years, the car squeezed out some past...now I know it is oe and beyond. :)

[boxer3maine]

new brake hardware kit. fancy . springs are color coded, even I figured it out.. new premium brake shoes for the premium drums.
master cylinder immediately self bled.. further proving the 1987 original had a serious problem from day one..and also aided in localizing the brake destructionin the first place.

pedal is way up, feels like the last loyales, and into today..

messed with pcv, increased temperature of what gets reycled..alot of hydrocarbons from welding 23 year old stuff, base coat with catalyst, reducer, uretahne, and hardener... all of it gave a good slow whiff to the engine for days. making quite a racket.. almost wrist pinnish... and know to just keep going... it is a routine with me turning the car into a chemistry experiment. :lol:

heater is heating the cabin again.. the compression of the "impreza" floor beams are done. I am glad this went fast without a rupture.. I made it very tight.

tomorrow should have inspection sticker without any second thoughts. it passed last year with a hidden crack in the tunnel.. not even the inspector found it. I did not know it was there either...

[boxer3maine]

Trying to explain how a "tunnel rolls" in a subaru...while nothing else fails all around it.
this vid is how to explain it. bluntly, out loud for all to see..

the beam is the tunnel. In vid it is an "X beam" versus an "O beam" of a tunnel, but same result.

http://www.youtube.com/watch?v=KJDS7LZ5ZSI

[boxer3maine]

Thunderhorse inspected quickly this year. Last year was rather thorough, and even an attempt to change bearings without needing them.The same guys I remember looked it over. Did not even challenge the new jacking points, as it went up with the lift for special vehicles. It is a decent routine to keep going to the same place.
the fourth inspection, fourth year, 12 mig reels later. Given the unusal odds for the car to be road going, even here in the city...as the old subes starting catastrophically dying within 3 years for some of the DL models.
I know they do not forget it..
http://i227.photobucket.com/albums/dd255/soob87/th_inspection2011web.jpg (http://s227.photobucket.com/albums/dd255/soob87/?action=view&current=inspection2011web.jpg)

Remembering the first time I went there, one inspector challenged another, two different garages. The garage that inspected today was the winner, that is why I keep going there. I went in with a wobbling bent hub, 13 inch wheels, a rear left strut that brealy hung onto reality, the list was like an abyss...but thye saw through the BS like I did. I even had an easy going conversation. A welder is a welder and weld is weld. it is either good or bad. of course I border insanity with 12 mig reels dumped into a 500 pound j-tin...I am glad they respect it. I do not forget how upset I have gotten at some other places... as even inspectors fall for stereotypes.

you got an old sube, needs weld? just do it. there is places with common sense to go with you and not prejudice against.

my only question this year: "did you notice any weld?", and he said "nope." I am winning.. secretively... strongly so.

[boxer3maine]

thinking back a year, it was a hit and run, I was welding in the dark, sledge hammering, had the back end of the car off the ground via a chain and a pine tree, and a 4 lo launch to straighten out the fresh bends for welding back in...I knew what I built. that fit of near rage proved only further.

prior to this tragedy, I had my eye on the final pieces missing from the genuine 87 subaru with high resistant paint:

http://i227.photobucket.com/albums/dd255/soob87/getimageCAN0N6FL.jpg

the all metal radiator really has a home..

my car was one of them. This item used to be a hot one (no pun).. my brother overheated my 87 dl, with an all metal radiator. He came home with a plastic side tanked one... two years later, the car destroyed itself in the belly pan. It was my first lesson in continuity of electrical and realtime draft.. on a boxer of course. some of the subes need this just to fire strong. the other end of a coil is a ground...a hint for newbs.:)


this has come down from the 300 dollars it used to be, and will grab at it soon enough.(a garage would even steal one if it had a chance once upon a time in junk collecting history- true story)

[Bu11dogg2]

Thanks for your horrible uneducated opinion. .

3 days for this one..
I decided to gut the interior, a creaking noise was driving me nuts..

I found two missing beams a cracked tunnel in two places, a chunk missing and the center carrier, right mount was free to do as it pleases...
http://i227.photobucket.com/albums/dd255/soob87/old%20subaru/subebigweldAug2010nes.jpg

I knew there was something missing. the white beams are 1.25, by 3.25 by 18 inches, hand rolled, and hammer welded.. there is a unique geomttry not only strengthening between the b-pillars, but it carries the center carrier. I got a bunch of other chores done as well.
Today is the day, I went past a 4x8 sheet of plywood, in sheet metal. (over 32 square feet has been replaced or strengthened)

A ride down the road, and waht I thought was a twisted seat this whole time was the tunnel.. now a nice ridgid chassis, the left trailing rear has proven to be a trick knee..must have stayed content with a bent body. one more day, I hope to get all this done.
:)
http://i227.photobucket.com/albums/dd255/soob87/old%20subaru/subebigweldAug2010web1.jpg

here is the outline in the floor that subaru never used. It was put there by subaru. This explains all other welding, and 11 other mig reels.. I should have doubted the car more than my discipline already does. (I simply made the rocker panels outrageous in strength making up for something I know was not strong enough.. now it has all it is supposed to be.. with beyond a double bonus.)

if subaru is not embarrassed, they should be.

and here is my purty weld... same solid seaming went into the rear end. Welding an ass cheek when I should have fixed a broken back bone.. anyway, the worlds biggest suby engine can squeeze into this old gl now..and for some time to come.
http://i227.photobucket.com/albums/dd255/soob87/old%20subaru/subebigweldAug2010solid.jpg

never put in. Even the floor tar indicated it. I did ponder a 2wd chassis mix up by subaru... I have had the 3 offerings, a 2wd, single range dl, and this GL..
it is funny.

the 2wd had the strongest trailing arms, The dl with tall gears had the weakest engine arms , the gl has a missing backbone for ten gear transmission... like a sick joke ya know? I have been lucky like that.
All for that genius drivetrain. (I mean it) :)

I knew it needed dramatic, my others did too. All tools purchased have been to expect this type of work for the sube.

http://i227.photobucket.com/albums/dd255/soob87/old%20subaru/subebigweldAug2010nes1.jpg

here is the other fix, that should not need to happen again. I had to make from what you do not see, out to what you do. Stronger than ever. Thi, believe it or not with 3 hefty bolts is simply for a jacking point..does nothing to aid in the rear end stability (not a darn thing). that single bolt in the back can stay there all by itself, without the bracket. The strong mount for the rear is the back one (not seen in photo). Yet another strange thing they did. I humor it for state inspections.


Told














you

























so :D

[boxer3maine]

I am glad somebody did. :unamused:

It is rather funny, my process from then to now.

I made a frame out of rocker panels to hold up the belly.
now it has beams to hold up the belly like it should have.. with two rockers having an unusally hardened life.

A few more welds and double sump ford v8 will drop right in.


update for today: dry fit ac delco (96 corsica), The subaru radio has a dim channel panel, I have to look real close no matter dark or light outside, and it is stiny japanese components.. and lastly, the delco powers 6.5 inch aftermarket like they had an amp already. Just simply nice swap.

my last go with this came out nice, today, I can't even quiblbe over a millimiter. I utilized one subaru bracket to set the pace...very exacting. A radio harness is on the way, cheap...and I made a bezel to do the job of cover the front end of delco (the panel sticker peels without one eventually).

[boxer3maine]

I wrote an article for this.. could be four years ago. I then left the forum without finishing what I started.

There is multimillion ac delco radios nearly perfect fitting 9 years of subaru... and subaru was quite tortured in the radio department by their own radio.

here is just one site:
http://mnrelectronics.com/delcasrad.html

the subaru radio in my current sube had low voltage live wires as the rear speakers ground... no dimmer, and no battery connect for memory keep, and it was original. Needless to say I was imnspired to try aomething else. My corsica was totalled and I loved the buig button delco.. so, I went about sizing it up. perfect...
http://i227.photobucket.com/albums/dd255/soob87/acdelcoweb.jpg

this side is with the first screw n the oem subaru bracket. the driver side bracket sets the pace for a perfect fit.

http://i227.photobucket.com/albums/dd255/soob87/acdelcoweb-1.jpg

this is the "hard work". analyze the material on the side of the radio.. it is much like the SECC electronics metal found on cd roms from a pc.. that is exactly my choice. Subaru also left the right side of radio forgiving and in a movable manner.. this should stay calm and mimick subarus intention.

a wire harness is on the way, and it will be heat shrink wrapped and simply plugged in. A subaru radio can go right back in with just the plugs, no splicing.
I did find a 12v battery source, the delco has to have it.. the memory keeping 1/2 volt subaru offers is not enough.. and it will chop the radio power in half if you do not use it. The wire just happened to be green with a female connector, near cigarrette lighter.. I found the male end plug and that too is also no splicing.

the antannae needed a hack or another cable. I chose hack..

the next step is install, and I will post the photos rather than try and write it. I can now choose between nearly 20 years of millions of delco radios. This one is cassette mimicking the year of my car.

[boxer3maine]

radio installed. all four speakers are shot, still had original paper cones. The way subaru shared grounds leaves the fade and balance interesting function, but does get it.
the the cooler for pre amp got hot as hell, this is excellent...
radio plugged right in and can unplug.. no hack job. harness is a better material than oem, made by scosche, good stuff.

car's size occured to me, and will be just putting 5.25 inch back in all four spots.. little tweeter, a mid and attempt at some normal bass all in one tiny speaker.

The biggest reward was waht that delco does with subaru runtime. it is the only capacitors that actively discharge in a sloooow motion... the ignition finds it. I thought this worked for ecu'd subes only, but the little carb likes it too.


next update: 2 core all metal radiator.. would you believe it is the most expensive part I have never bought at $135...

nickels and dimes is the rest.

[boxer3maine]

This is something that bothered me from another forum on old subarus:

the carburator swaps.

the hitachi is a genius, all of them. there is even a blo thru older than most would not remember for the ea81..

with that that said, the venturis were very small, as expected by japanese.

the answers to swap are a plenty... the weber 32/36, and holley 5200 series, and even the rare 6500 ECU controlled can fit an old sube.

my 1987 came with a fuel shutoff and vent bowl shutoff.. and the redline kits are just plain old 5200s first generation. this means black smoke on startups on hot days and other slobbed plug fouling events...no shutting off the fuel, like a 1940 ford y block with 2 one barrels.
:lol:

the 5220, unknown to many came with two popular versions, I found a 1979 (year for reference) that has a fuel vent shutoff, and a 1980 version with a fuel shutoff.. I finally found the latter 1980 version, and the parts are still made brand new.. today.


I wanted to add this here.

1980 dodge omni, holley 5220 first choice (shut everything off like a 1987 subaru does) this one has the fuel shutoff and can use existing subaru wires.
1979 dodge omni holley 5220... shuts off vent bowl only (not perfected, but good)
weber 32/36 1970-today.. no shutoffs at all, like an old 5200. if you notice in the redline kits "not for use in california".. I could guess this is the reason.

I find this dramatic for maine.. especially in rapid temperature changes. the sube with a hitcahi would rather rupture its own tank than make the engine unsafe. This is very good.The shutoffs go to a real work when -22F climbs to 55 in 5 days (2 years ago documented NOAA).. anyway, no reason to not make on old sube fun. they make a carb that fits safe.
:up:

this applies to ea81s and ea82. go to redline for adapter kit separate, and find the holley 5220.


the barrels in the 5200s and weber are 26/27, with a 32/36 butterfly. The hitachi claims 32/34 but the venturis are hypermiled into a tiny 20s mm measurement (could even be less than 20mm)... hence the webers make the old sube a hot rod with the same 280cfm. :)

I found a dirt cheap pile of 1979 versions with float bowl vent shutoff and it may be worth the 60 bucks to someone:

holley 5220- 1979 (http://www.aaaaautomotive.com/Shop/Control/Product/fp/SFV/32785/vpid/6721300/vpcsid/0/rid/134382)

[Berge56]

Any future plans?

[boxer3maine]

Any future plans?


I just puked my last "top of the line" fram extra tough super guard :unamused:
and found some lifetime filters by professional products.

billet aircraft grade aluminum
10micron filter option to go with 45micron
stainless steel mesh, no relief, no drainback
reusable, washable, and the 10micron has a drain for itself in the filter to see what comes out of it.
the ea engine has all the reliefs quite overthinking at every runtime.. why play with a 6-18psi piece of paper called a filter pretending to be an oil system hero?

So, radiator is on hold. Does not leak, I just do not like it. the highway is having its way with the top row of fins.I did find a big batch of holley 5220s with a solenoid for the vent bowl, but no fuel shutoff. Given the price, it may be worth a grab to have some fun in the summer.

other future is back to road touring type tread, I do not need to let it wobble anymore, the welding is headed for quite done. As fat as they can fit in the wells is where it is headed. I just need to mount them, have four already.

and the paint is at its first stage of normal high grade catalyst, and that needs the next two layers going real slow..the wet sanding, nitpicking..for now is bumpy, in an unpolished state...with corrected paint.

the list could go on forever, but am relieved to get into some extras. the first 3 years was outright brut force work plucking it out of the past...and nothing for anyone to notice.:)

[boxer3maine]

still gathering part numbers and sources from a mishap last year with my pc and a hit and run...:unamused:

anyhow. this place may keep them written longer than I can. :)

two row radiator. the carbs love it.
CSF 83486 - all metal. the 1985-1987 should pay attention to this.. it is not just performance this fixes, even the heater core gets what it needs, and upgrading ignition to msd types, this radiator is a minimum for proper continuity and egr removal.

a sway bar for oversized wheels.
this is also non-loyale, further proving what I found about gl/dl and xt sharing a monster..
this part number is
addco 512
.875 inch and also not a performance part, but a fix for 15 inch tread where thirteens used to be, stopping torque steer. This took awhile to deciphe on my own car. My car passes all parts inspection up front, yet torque steers. it coincided with 15 inch wheels. This is rather expensive..but would try it anyway. logical cure. Especially, again, the 1985 -1987 "bulldog" front ends sitting up high with different geometry aside from struts. I would not be surprised if this is also a part it was supposed to get and never did.
(the carb sube is tortured by its own company).

that is all for now..

oil filter recap.. professional products performance filter canister 10857
oli filter 45 micron is 10815
10 micron is 10816
still awaiting this one for delivery. will post optimistically how it does. Seems simple .. "just an oil filter" right?

here is something unique.. if the old subes need this it is either bent in ways impossible (ie: firewall) or needs strut rod bushings..or... wow. I cannot even think of staying enthused if a sube needs this adjustable, but is an option for us stubborn old chassis keepers. I may grab a pair becuase they are the same cost as oem replacemant, and adjustable for when bushings get old.
spc performance 84300
http://i227.photobucket.com/albums/dd255/soob87/old%20subaru/sps-84300_w.jpg

upon a net search for other old sube performance hacks, I am finding I will not be impressed with the later 20mm sway bar from xt6/rx. So I wait for the 22mm from addco...

[boxer3maine]

got filter today.

10857
Finally got the pro filter today. Looked it over. first thing to notice was heavy weight and a flashback to when working at a quicklube.They were not seen often. I only recall a couple out of thousands of vehicles. I do remember if I got one to peel the sticker off (a local hot spot). This canister does fit other engines. Chrysler and ford has same thread. The filter mesh is impressive, that too has a decent weight. The top of the filter is much more open, more than matching the trochoids unusually big pump hole. The expendable filters have tiny holes up top to reduce volume on the cheap paper…and a relief..and it drives an ea82 crazy.
I do remember the aluminum billet was a hot filter. No different on the ea82. I am glad to have the engine driven fan blowing at it.The aluminum acts as an oil cooler as well as being strong. the strong for a filter is not only the mesh but the pouncing breathing squish wiggles a pump can send it. this filter will not budge.
The bucket of bolts I made the sube become lately is a routine I must remember after not changing the oil enough. I had to add a quart after it never burned any. Same routine for fresh oil every time. The filter change did take some of course, but I forgot that the oil changes after in the engine. The ea82 likes to shrink new oil…I always assume aluminum block and an actual functioning pcv that grabs hot useless vapors. It is already showing signs of very dynamical in the gauge, fluid motions... leaving the pump pressure set and reliefs more fluid. Inner sounds of mains and close listening is a solid steady.
A smart purchase, no regrets.

[boxer3maine]

I was realizing the dates today..
http://i227.photobucket.com/albums/dd255/soob87/old%20subaru/87stmlps0000.jpg

four years ago today I bought the above sube.
http://i227.photobucket.com/albums/dd255/soob87/old%20subaru/accident_web9.jpg

Fresh after a nasty accident, I had an internal physical problem. assuming not to croak in my sleep I blindly bought the gl for $500.
no real lawsuit came through, I am stuck with an old subaru.

it has come a long way. Just crossed 130k miles.. this is 6k miles a year ( a bit more than I planned , but disciplined anyway) gaining 26 k miles.

some rides to remember are boston in january with a broken rear end...from bangor maine. Fort kent in an ice storm, up towards the west and northern canadian border.
this was long before car got real repairs, as an original, over the twenty year mark. Always a legend.. even if it broke.

the budget just crossed $3k and priceless labor...over four years, it is well in the definition of "nickels and diming" ...and never done.

It still makes an ass of a mechanical ass. Forever. It has made one out of me a few times... my own stupidity. :)

3000+ photos and timelapse clips..car has been an experiment as digital evolves. it is my humble target. I did realize the value of even bad photos...they only need time to gain value.

Alot to say about an old sube.

[boxer3maine]

I cannot say as I have ever encountered the error I have today. There is a thing called "tick of death" for the ea82s tapping noises. "Death" being exaggerated, I associate it with the northwest cult of idiot and the piles of millions of classic subarus they got when the boat decides to stop there.

anyway.. changed filter to billet recently. Responsive gauge, quicker bursts of pressure. If any errors in the block/heads casting existed.. it would be telling me now. So I am under the hood listening to the taps of lifters..
and then I saw it...

where egr comes out of the topside passenger head, in the back. a little fog colored smoke ring puffed out of a bolt hole, left open by the crazy recirculating supercharger subaru used for 1 year, near the already plugged egr opening..my sube was possibly an experiment. I removed what the dealer did not a while back.

So I give it the throttle to be sure I am not seeing things.. it did it again.

I then found 5 more drilled tapped openings put there by subaru on both heads and filled them in with bolts.. over an inch deep for all of them. each one...

Subaru tapped its way into the oil jackets of each and every bolt hole in the heads, by less than half a millimeter, creating the oil fog spew I saw come out by freak chance. Within seconds of filling them in, this so called "tick of death" went away entirely. For 23 years the car has had 5 open oil jackets to atmosphere.. and never died.
Now the oil gauge is faster than the tach when I gave it a few throttles. The topside openings must have allowed gravity to keep feeding the pump...even as airbound. :rofl:

the odds of survival are great. I am only left in awe once again to the greatest engine subaru ever built.. literally tortured by the idiots that surrounded it.

[Bu11dogg2]

For 23 years the car has had 5 open oil jackets to atmosphere.. and never died.
Please explain what you mean

[boxer3maine]

Please explain what you mean

bolt holes tapped in the top of the heads for brackets/braces subaru insanity (I could just blame the 80s)...
http://i227.photobucket.com/albums/dd255/soob87/old%20subaru/arrowsboltholeswevb1.jpg

these two were the drama.. there was three. the third one is in front of the distributor

http://i227.photobucket.com/albums/dd255/soob87/old%20subaru/arrowsboltholesweb.jpg

this one showed no visible signs, but gets a bolt anyway (directly behind engine fan, may have cooled it to sealing)


they tapped into the jacket passages of oil...by smidgens of a tiny measurement. Not enough to spew liquid, but vapor. Precise error. not once or twice with an "oops"... all of them that were tapped were venting the jackets to atmosphere. This led to sucking air... hence the valve noise that the ea82 is seemingly noted for.

this one car even had a pinched oil pump gasket,also by factory, untorqued cam casings leaving yet another air sucker for the pump, and a pressure relief that was not even screwed in, it fell to the ground when I removed the valve cover.... yet the pressure still managed to hit 15-20 psi. :unamused:

it is now at 80psi in the cold, all reliefs opening and closing. Nothing for me as a human to notice.. but the engine in time must be.

Even with these tapped holes open, my own just simply fell quiet halfway to warm. I could only guess now with the bigger pressure, something else may let go. I am counting on gaskets, as they should be getting old by now.

the pump is all redone already. I have four heads to choose from standing by...:cool:

[boxer3maine]

The craziest errors in the 87 was emissions. Intention good, result, very bad. EGR is long gone, alot has cleaned itself since...and so is second self melting resonator, I made my own.

one gadget I respect is the fuel canister for fuel vent. some can use it for vent bowl too. my own sube uses vent bowl with a check valve and electrically controlled to function after car is started...direct into intake.

this car had the fuel canister hooked up to a vacuum that has never worked.. routed a fancy path through a metal mounted piping manifold, unnecassry lengths of hoses, now that egr is gone, and it went then to a thermally controlled vacuum valve. Sound Confusing? yes it is, without a manual...and it just sat there useless. 23 years. :unamused:
the saver of the vent and gastank was yet another vent line that feeds into the intake without the canister. Seems rather bizarre at this point.. it gets better. After deciphering just why there is 5 lines for one gas tank...
with the one vent feeding the intake, no controller, and one side clogged. A bad fuel can be a danger...

so I simply put in a loyale spfi injection fuel vent canister, sealed, smaller.same controls as the carb engine. Called it an upgrade, the carb version is wide open and even sucks water in the rain.Rerouted real vacuum through a thermo control vacuum valve to a real vacuum source, and one vent line is going to be done away with, or bridge to act similar to the thermally controlled one. this is as complicated as wahoos complain about on the 80s carbs with "3500 miles of rubber hoses". It does do away with alot of the hoses, just reading the manual, realizing some ridiculous mistakes.

maine has a serious use for the venting, controlled. potentially violently so...any cold/hot place has to have it, not just to be nice to cars behind you with your vapors.. there is a danger for yourself.

[boxer3maine]

a pause in the rain, flopped around outside to get at least the passenger side done

http://i227.photobucket.com/albums/dd255/soob87/old%20subaru/bushingswebe.jpg

This must be a content sube in the chassis.. these bushings aren't even good enough for a lawnmower. (New one is the bigger one). Once again, WELDING IS EVERYTHING.
It did take some torque steer away, and caster is forwarded .25 inch. I am sure everything that goes with these will be noticable eventually.

left side not even in, that is another pressure, does not bother squishy old bushings. Subes are like alot of fwd in this way: it targets the right. Not nearly the drama of transverse, but does suffer the only drawback like the others.

1 day later, again inbetween rain, this moist warm is great for squashing new rubber bushings.. got the other side done.

I have these installed with the small cone end towards leading edge bracket, haynes manual shows this the other way around. I did not like it that way, I flipped them and ensured articulation.. small cone in towards leading edge bracket...less strain on ball joints etc etc..and they really squeeze down, nice psi. :)
compared to the useless of old, one could install anything solid any old way (like the new ones in photo) and do better.

[boxer3maine]

http://i227.photobucket.com/albums/dd255/soob87/old%20subaru/porousCover002web.jpg

I do not know to call this porous, but close enough. Swapped both for a shined up two part urethaned loyale version ( the pair is 6 years newer- as well as revised to a difference, obviously so). I was thinking of consequences to very powerful oil pump.. valve covers was first to come to mind. The loyales are as new as it gets for the engine.

http://i227.photobucket.com/albums/dd255/soob87/old%20subaru/shinycover010web.jpg


the revisions obvious are

cover in photo has 167k miles, this is one of them I used.
the injected engine was a roaster and showing no cracks/fatigue at all anywhere
the time stamp from manufature actually became a source of strength, (unlike the 1987 stamp placement)

[boxer3maine]

http://i227.photobucket.com/albums/dd255/soob87/other/oldbearings001web.jpg

I was dreading this for two years..as it turns out, the rear left bearings, as guessed, were not even at the end of their life.. somewhere in the middle. I was unenthused to see the 6 piece setup like you would find in an older and lighter ea81 subaru. The ea82 is more in the realms of legacy strain and needs...(just adding a fifth gear is a whole other ball game for the chassis.)

So I put the new 3 piece federal mogul in with the help of an ingersoll rand 450 foot pound air gun (incredible). If it were not for witnessing the air gun and the dents it put in the brand new heavy duty ring nut tool... I would never have gotten it out. It made the chore seem easy, letting it hammer at 130 pounds per square inch...first try, maybe <2 minutes!

I then realized the cv is stuck to the diff, and had to take trailing arm off entirely.. nope. the bolt had to be ground off where it sits. I then replaced with a "class 8.8 metric fine" (nearly ten freakin dollars for 1 bolt) to learn yet another weird event by subaru oem: they never tightened the trailing arm bolt, and it petrified there for many years..A source of loose was deciphered after all.

The slow speed wiggle did not stop, my first hunch was correct in that a wheel or badly belted tire is having its way.

all sealed back up with valvoline synthetic 400 degree grease, just for the 40 below it is capable of, more than the high temp. :)

9 hours start to finish. this was more difficult that afull drivetrain swap.

http://i227.photobucket.com/albums/dd255/soob87/old%20subaru/th_newbearing001smallweb.jpg (http://s227.photobucket.com/albums/dd255/soob87/old%20subaru/?action=view&current=newbearing001smallweb.jpg)

[Berge56]

wow alot of progress has been done since I last checked in!

[boxer3maine]

wow alot of progress has been done since I last checked in!

by the time the first go of everything done is complete.. I will be back at the beginning as if a type writer.
:cool:

I tend to go 6.5 months at a time (winter) doing nothing at all. the bearings now is a warm tropical rain last minute dive.

[98Wagoon]

those bushings look like hell. where did they come from? must feel a lot better with the new, thicker ones in.

[boxer3maine]

those bushings look like hell. where did they come from? must feel a lot better with the new, thicker ones in.

I could not find a subaru number for them.. but did find the same name for a nissan pickup in the 1970s. Identical appearance. They used to swap stuff all around in ricer land. the new ones are specific, and do not go anywhere else, unless someone hacks them in.. they were corrected for this subaru. above 100hp, one should notice them.as for oem, the old ones did very good (as 23 years dictated)

nothing to notice at all...strangely so. Jacking it up did reveal a bit more help in max suspension drop, and that is about all. If you do have an old sube with them, just keep them in until pulverized.. :)

Any caster bar hits to leading edge will break the engine arms eventually, starting with chunks missing...adding to importance of bushings at least there and working.

[boxer3maine]

the new plugs (to me) called iridiums are finally on order. I guess I was waiting for the 2 dollar a plug future, it does not seem to be happening.

27.70 from rockauto delivered.:unamused:

I give this its own thread, as the old carbed engines have a problem with platinum plugs. the engine has no/slow air bypass when letting off throttle.. this means it uses the exhaust side to keep the cylinder neutral when throttle is closed. this season and last, after two years of the bosch platinum.. a distinct incinerator type odor and a strange vent with open bolt holes on the passenger cylinder head allowed me to decipher that the platinum plugs is having a bit of chemistry fun with the platinum convertor...

The iridium should separate the madness...will know soon enough...

and right front wheel bearing is also soon, inner and outer. I am going to find it is the same as the left rear.. not destroyed, and not perfect, just worn with super lube I gave it keeping them content.:)

..and just today threw a 205/75/15 uniroyal tigerpaw in the back to get mounted. All is in place to give it the <3/4 inch hard space needed without squishy bushings or wobbling bearing. This is as big as it goes with no lift for the 85-87...

looking forward to throwing the hakka1 with every type of bend dent breaking belt and even perma-twisted sidwall into a place no one will ever think of looking. What a ripoff.

[boxer3maine]

http://i227.photobucket.com/albums/dd255/soob87/old%20subaru/205-75-15004web.jpg

the good news: I did purchase 4 spare peugeot wheels in good shape. (I had doubts about one bead) the photo has one experiment mounted on one of the spare wheels (thanks subarude :up:)

the bad news.. well I guess there is none. I do doubt the inner splines of transaxles turning this arctic greenland looking monster..:lol:. What I thought needed an operation to make this work was true... and the gear ratio for this 3.9 leaves even my 15 inch wheels on now too short (195/60/15)...the thought of these being just right...it is beyond guessing that would hold true as well.

So I wait for 205/70/15, one size smaller than photo and leave the back alone, they will fit right in then, and the front should need minimal trim work, tastefully done. I feel the 205/75/15 are too big. I instantly loved how much farther the car gets off the ground. instant lift kit...hardly childish...and while engine was running, I also realized my hakkas are as hard as a damn petrified engine mount. I did not feel anything with engine running and the tire in photo mounted on the front. I love the thought of it.

[boxer3maine]

iridium PLUGS installed.
http://i227.photobucket.com/albums/dd255/soob87/th_platinum100k003web.jpg (http://s227.photobucket.com/albums/dd255/soob87/?action=view&current=platinum100k003web.jpg)

here is a macro shot of my old platinums with a little nikon. platinums, I could gather, are not supposed to wear down like this. All four are similar in appearance. A total tally for miles has three over 100k miles, and one just under. This is a big deal for the ea82, it has never had iridiums, like the platinums, I kept an eye on things until warm up. Distributor is still in a noisy stage, but will fade away.

More importantly, the interaction I thought was happening has haulted. Iridium plug has separated from platinum convertor, as I was hoping. no strange odor.. the recent fuel vent fix/vapor can still leaves it random coughing, gonna have to live with that until it is done cleaning at a snails pace of 3 psi with a recycle, in a 12+ foot run one way from tank to carb..as long as it keeps moving, it has got to win eventually.

Clutch slips into a grip, and smells like a dryer vent. Going to keep wailing on that too with 6000 rpm stomps until it is content or failed. (normally goes back to a grippy win).

Tires are planned to be yokohama geolanders, give it a miniature truck like offroad onroad appearnce. Alot of jeeps and multi use SUV/trucks full sized have this same tread. A diffiuclt find for the little sube is limited to 205/70/15. These should be installed within 3 weeks or less, attempting the internet as a source.

[boxer3maine]

1016pm. Noisy distributor turned into a broken timing belt. I was on the highway.. left lane, approx 80mph. I was hoping it would calm before the break, but as luck has it…I am now a AAA member, prices seemed good. This digs into the nickel and dime tire fund. **** happens. Of course when the drivers side belt goes, there is a chance the fuel pump is a goner, or relay. Will find out in the morning. First tow for thunderhorse. 4 years with me, and 27k miles. I have broken a belt before, and it was my fault then too…


I should not have pushed my luck, but what could I do? Never had iridiums, nor carter pump, nor the clean air intake or proper fuel vent it has now. I should expect times like this. Timing belt sunday, tomorrow. The pump is giving no indication of action, this was my last drivers side break as well. (Had to replace fuel pump same time as belt). Being a carter and new, I assume it is the relay not getting the ignition (distributor) to kick it on as a safety. Subaru is smart in these places. Credit is due.Will not think the worst yet...
:)

[boxer3maine]

as planned digging into the timing belt swap. the old one stripped and shreeded inside edge (block side) I remembered my last swap..in a parking lot, very upset, becuase it shuld not have happened and did.Surprised it made it this far. I threw in a used belt, the back of the oil pump pulley has a guidance ring, and the belt did not like it...so had to remove it. it has gone 20k miles since then. Another oddity was the belt I threw in was at least 2mm skinnier than normal, and no labels (I have no idea why I even had it in the parts bins)

today the mystery of why it wanted towards the block too far was simply deciphered comparing the same tensioner to my loyale version. sure enough,the loyale tensioner is a very full millimeter+ to the outside, hard set, and I noticed it is heavier by my own hands judgement.... and that will make the belt stay content. Yet another 1985-87 error to throw in a dumpster..

I lubed everything with high temp valvoline. getting belt in a few minutes. I also took note, on my particular ea82.. the oil pump is "fatter". This and the old tensioner was exactly as wrong as it could go and still run. unexplainable.:unamused:

Remember this is the sube that shipped with pinched gaskets in the oil pump (1985-1987 only).. had every error, known to subaru, and still finding them...the one today is not even written.

http://i227.photobucket.com/albums/dd255/soob87/old%20subaru/timingbelt006web.jpg

This is the old belt, looks like hairs in the teeth.. that is what it is made out of. I did grab this from my other subaru, an engine with 84hp , that was 3 years ago. I guess I am lucky. misaligned, used, and miles unknown. Being a loyale, someone had to find this economy version nightmare. (as loyales have the newest belts)
Anyway, new Dayco belt installed, it is not the brand I like, but parts stores did not have much for these, ever. Advanced in brewer had one in stock. can't be choosy. It did its usual rumble in 30 minutes, good time. maybe a good belt. The lubed up tensioners, and the loyale tensioner swap aligned the belt properly this time. distributor back to quiet.

[boxer3maine]

http://i227.photobucket.com/albums/dd255/soob87/old%20subaru/Capturebelt.jpg
I inquired about this several years ago, today I just sent an inquiry for 1 tooth longer, urethane, steel reinforced for driver side only. the tensioner slide hole will need to be opened a bit...but this will fit. 1 hole more is .25 inches longer maybe a bit more.

the neoprene version they have was quoted at 40 something dollars...but I don't like the fiberglass. I almost went for it, but that was an extra I soon forgot about. After super lubing the engine by removing the kamikaze stuff, even a generic label-less belt hung on for 20 years, unknown miles.

if to change the opinion of "narrow band" ea82 to the older "wide band" ea81, while retaining the huge benefit of overhead cams.. well, this needs one hell of a belt.

I hope to get a response. if anyne here kknows where to score the millions made 3/4 inch width, .375 inch pitch belts custom with steel...lemme know!

[98Wagoon]

cant give you an answer on the belt. not my thing.

however, Im surprised at how ragged the belt looked. Im surprised it hadnt popped sooner. Im guessing the ea82 is non-intereference so you had no possible valve damage after the belt decided to go its separate ways?

[boxer3maine]

cant give you an answer on the belt. not my thing.

however, Im surprised at how ragged the belt looked. Im surprised it hadnt popped sooner. Im guessing the ea82 is non-intereference so you had no possible valve damage after the belt decided to go its separate ways?

yes non.
It is a reason I threw in the belt in the parking lot as a risk..

I forgot completely I used that belt, as life goes along.. car either runs or not. Funny enough, I upgraded the coil, a year after this crappy belt, and heard the baby screming satan of 8500 rpms come from an ea82.
hilarious. :lol:

I know tight timing from my v8 hobby, it is an awesome dramatic to have on a carbed engine.

This really why I hope to score the steel one. I already thought of how to wrap the crank end even tighter with a home made tensioner (no spring), the cam end could stay content forever.
the teeth stripped abve is the crank side of course...same spit as I have seen once already in another suby fail.

[Bu11dogg2]

Is the interval 20k or 60k on that belt?

[boxer3maine]

Is the interval 20k or 60k on that belt?

supposed to be 60k... I never changed any on three of my subarus until I broke them. 3 belts broke, (all my fault) this year (december) is 14 years of ready to go at all times, my daily drivers. not bad. 3 for 14 and breaking all rules..knowing nothing gets hurt, I wanted to see how far they went anyway.

Egr is the rare killer.. could cut it short at anytime, any moment.(driver side drama)

drove one to 165k, got wrecked.. that is the spare belt I slapped in the current subaru, and went another 26k...20 years even.

it was so old there was no label, and it rode the block into a couple millimeters skinnier than normal. (17mm instead of 19).. it may have had some bunged up teeth when I slapped it in 3 years ago. I did not care. I can turn the driver side cam by hand...not much happening.

I still want a non chemical shrinker version and did find two.
one is by "gates" and one is by "acdelco". not that it matters.. but they are actually 3/4 american inch width, and if to set tensioner like I do, the old fashioned way.. a belt that does not play around is welcome.

No complaints here. The passenger belt just happens to be new, I think I did this by purchasing the wrong one 3 years ago..

it has been a few days, several sources of cause of break deciphered, iridiums being one, the new billet filter increased volume, reduced friction. fried harder, less friction. Definately the breaker for the old belt. once set in, cannot be challenged to dramatic change. The delco and gates belts should survive, like an older tried and true design does. Even the new belt installed has the "effective length" keywords as a shrinker to shape. they actually suck for me, but oem should go a long day.

[boxer3maine]

http://i227.photobucket.com/albums/dd255/soob87/other/helicoilt.jpg

my nickel and dime ebay browsing found these 14mm inserts. the sube uses 17mm (long)..
the set of 12 was an idea to keep my older head going in the same place bratman blew #2 plug in his 2.5 liter, I am seeping one in the ea82. that is what we get for demanding a bit more. A sube is a sube apparently.:unamused:

the long set is reserved for my "special" built heads, drilled at turbo coolant passages, exhaust reemed, topside intake ported.. and to get long inserts before anyerrors, copper headgaskets (home made, with stainless center rings) viton valve seals, and a +1mm set of valves (found cheap, they are used less- kinda funny how that works).. and of course ported my version in the valve area passage, and brass guides shaved shorter. (this is for 10.2:1 on spfi heads and pistons- or a match of one of the other on the carb engine to 9.7:1).

this is yeta nother chore I forgot.. by simply cleaning the hole, a platinum plug fit snug... the iridiums are not being so lucky. I hope it lasts the delivery time, car is daily driven. I will not hesitate to drive it on 3 if it blows it out. :lol:

[boxer3maine]

3pm. New plug insert installed.. well worth the 31 dollars for the tool and 17mm "long" steel sleeve. The oversize tap showed new threads in the old hole, almost entirely.. so the sleeve is a very nice fit. I also learned something new today, as physics lessons are a few in the old sube. The number 2 plug hole is a freaky phenomena to the ground of entire ignition, explains the strain of why it chunked the hole. I am guessing it’s the invisible physics head of #2 cylinder getting the most air, the coolest coolant, and the engine ground inches away, going back to the chassis. Live and learn. I do know I gave it a strong seat, this could be forever…or long enough for me.


I am inspired to redo the other 3 holes, which have no errors, after the old sube did what it did. Another strange "wow" to add to my personal suby history. :)

[boxer3maine]

this photo is from my spare cylinder head..passenger side. the new sleeve is in an unlikely bad plug hole (forward #1 cyl pass. side), it only goes to show that it is easy to have a bad plug hole. I wanted to show just how dramatic the steel sleeve is. As you can see, the oem heads are untreated holes, native aluminum materials, simply tapped to fit a plug. (should be no localized high heat- and they shipped it anyway). I recommend this for any subaru.

http://i227.photobucket.com/albums/dd255/soob87/old%20subaru/cylheadsleeve003web.jpg

note an anti foul shroud. I simply sink the sleeve in 1/8th inch below surface by eyesight from the topside... this photo showed me how far I could go with the 17mm sleeve. :)

http://i227.photobucket.com/albums/dd255/soob87/cylheadsleeveweb.jpg

the tool to do this is so common, it can be found anyplace but VIP (oh of course!) just kidding.
it is simply a 14mm X 1.25 tap and seat unique tool. Actual measurements are not what is stamped on the tool, hence buying a kit versus a tap is a good idea. this takes all of 5 minutes.

[boxer3maine]

reamed the other two plug holes, and swapped the leaker for another. New sleeves set right in. seated tight. deeper idle, something huge going on with the sleeves. Took quite a hard run in the cold slush and snow (perfect) to get the frying pan odors out, puffs of blue smoke telling me its burning. Seems to be back to calm. I kept going until I knew the burn was going away. The hissing noise of a plug leak makes no sense at all. I did this to another subaru, it was an act of physics. One hole stayed retarded in timing, could try some gumout, no doubt dirty.In the summer, it would not take long to go away.. this time of year to do what I did is a real *****. Mostly the timing belt, needing heat to shrink.I still want a real belt in. advanced autos version is probably 1.95 from taiwan.




I stunk out my neighbor seating these in, with a complaint (realistically) I had to move my car from the area.. it was quite powerful. smells like the incinerator type fire by the dump by dysarts truck stop...with some metal attached. I have twisted straight sixxes the long way and associate it with that area. No wonder there is no old cars as dailys.

back to sube..sounds much more "locomotive". A deep empty barrel type thud, timing almost assumed retarded.. yet isn't. I made a difference today, after 23 years worth of something else. The sleeves and ground interaction may tak some time. I probably should have done this in the summer.

edit: this should be the last post on the plug sleeves. I wanted to really write things as they happened. if anyone remembers these cars from new, some were sold on the basis of "extreme physics problems". Tonight it started from cold, obvious compression increase (I sunk the sleeves into the chamber) now engine is back to symmetry. A few more days of doubts, no second thoughts.

I found all of the problems, and it is very much common sense.
in a paragraph:
the car was shipped with "half power". This includes small ignition coil (<7k) an egr valve bigger than a v8, free to open way too much.. tiny barrels, mismatched ports, single row radiator.. and a ful lthrottle opening only to a certain temperature... and the unsleeved sloppy plug holes is a tell all.. they fired so fast across aluminum, there is not even carbon.. but brown incomplete fires in every cylinder.

this means absolute pig after a couple of years. the carbed engines simply outdid all of them with realtime draft and timing (subaru could not kill that.. they tried) hence the one in this thread is still running original.

everything listed on the first page fixes this, and not only that, todays fuels are self cleaners...won't even have to take it apart.


off to a few days.. with some luck.

[boxer3maine]

yet another update for the parts coming in..

a1-cardone select water pump, this is not the same as remanned.. could only remember this from what could be 20 years ago (the last time I bought one)
the remanned just gets gaskets and cleaning, the select or premium gets a new impeller, possibly shafts and a guarantee of new seals, proper machined openings meeting oe spec...andif not new, they get retreated with something preventing corrosion.

the gates timing belt is simply an american brut (righteously so) at 3/4 inch and accurate first shot install, no games to play. The dayco belt wil be a spare, thrown into a parts bin.

both these chores get done at the same time.

edit: forgot to add the notes about hub height.

on another forum, the explanation was simle.. the long pump had studs, the short pump had bolts.. for the pulley and fan.

my own explanation is, the special subes, like rx and xt got the short, everything else, even my loyales, have all been long.

Nothing to do with what type of a/c install it got (dealer or factory) but some decipher them this way

so.. it is still a mystery, one has to measure.

I know the heights just by owning 3 of them...and still may get it wrong. Some can tell by the distance of fan from radiator. Another oddity was the DL I owned with no power steering, had a short pump, and vbelts. Given the identifiers, it should have been the long hub..but no...it was oem short, the "unspecial" sube.
:dunno:

[98Wagoon]

did you ever figure out the issue with the spark plug you were having?

[boxer3maine]

did you ever figure out the issue with the spark plug you were having?

yep I sure did. whenever the car went back to normal, it would have a puff of burning smoke, exhuast smelled like frying pan and old gas...

it occured to me what created the pressure.. after the belt breaks, one of the cylinders or maybe both is sitting there with valves closed, no gas burn..and gas keeps going anyway with vacuum of engine slowing down to a halt...in the base a pile of shaken old debris to go with it. :lol:

when bealt breaks shut engine off immediately, I did not, this is why it is being a weird one.

it is heading back to very nice, thumpier than ever. Still a cold start skip, it may take several cold starts to get over it. A slow curve of climbing out.

the plug holes are at normal now, but will expect a few more times of weirdness until it is done. the only drawback to non-interference.. and it is still doing something to make itself better (gas cleans it)

[98Wagoon]

sounds good!

[boxer3maine]

http://i227.photobucket.com/albums/dd255/soob87/filtercrudweb.jpg

oil pressure is idling just above zero, took filter off and this is what I found. I just knew the engine has never been filtered. I cleaned until light could be seen through it again. No regrets on this overpriced purchase of the billet resuable, stainless steel FTW.... am worried abut the engine a little, the belt episode is playing a trick, and have put up with this in the past... summertime is a fast cure. Now is not the right time. :unamused: I hope I do not have the first ea82 in history to spin a bearing...I'll just keep it clean. Today the removal and clean, check stuff out, put it back together was the first ten bucks back fighting the paper element filter expense..(that is how I look at the reusable)

I did mention keeping a log for this sube.. (I have a hunch it is in the world record realm- seriously)

I can only guess this sube has never been filtered. All brands of paper elements have a bypass… no filtering at all is their big bad option on real pumps. given they only withstand 6psi of oil and somehow stay together for the next tv commercial. This took quite a bit to clean, the magnet even got busy with sludge type stuff stuck to it. The boiling point, much like the pcv sucker side valve cover… had a reaction. I wonder what is out there in this evil world attacking engines. It is not just dust and pebbles. Back together, oil pressure stayed high. Now it is back towards low again. Center of engine is making noise and the spark plug hole is at it again. I am going to change the oil along with water pump and timing belt. The belt is the culprit at this point, putting some strain on top and bottom (valves and rods and mains) alternating back and forth in a perfectly wrong timed tease. Dayco can kiss my.....the gates belt is going in even if its 6 degrees out in a 35mph north wind

[bratman18]

Certainly wouldn't be the first to spin a bearing. I have had a few

[boxer3maine]

Certainly wouldn't be the first to spin a bearing. I have had a few

you would be the first I have ever heard of it. Even the block shrinks after cool down of a spin that cannot happen...to keep on flying.
could you tell me the exact subaru this happened on, when where and the owner... speak up boy, am waiting. this is interesting.

sorry for the last post. you got defended, and I have an infraction. Both unnecessary.

parts list just got bigger, remembering why I needed front bearings in the snow for the right front.. ordered inner and outer. Again the oem does not look like replacement, and for the better. the rear has evolved to the 3 piece from six, and the front has a stronger side skirting to encapsulate the very problem I am having... the left front and rear right is errorless, can only blame 20 years of maine leaning to the right to target what it did. Seems common on anything I remember, especially lsd, or just FWD alone...and subaru uses a wax that does not meet maines -10F and beyond. grinding to fail inevitable. Crazy as claiming 300hp on aluminum spark plug holes. haha, that was a funny. Don't infract me.

valvoline syntheitc awaits. this has done very good for me, and has a -40F rating, to 420F above.

[bratman18]

One happened to an 89 touring wagon, rust free, very nice car, I miss it!! It happened right before I got it. A school teacher owned it, maybe he ran it out of oil? Even though I have done that plenty of times on these motors without issue. Another was an 87 wagon, same motor, fuel injection. That motor had bad head gaskets when I got it, and we beat on it anyway, so it was no surprise when it happened. And another was a 91 Loyale, customers car, and it just started knocking bad one day, after investigation, that was the issue. These motors are very tough, I have tested them a lot!!! But it can happen to any motor

[boxer3maine]

One happened to an 89 touring wagon, rust free, very nice car, I miss it!! It happened right before I got it. A school teacher owned it, maybe he ran it out of oil? Even though I have done that plenty of times on these motors without issue. Another was an 87 wagon, same motor, fuel injection. That motor had bad head gaskets when I got it, and we beat on it anyway, so it was no surprise when it happened. And another was a 91 Loyale, customers car, and it just started knocking bad one day, after investigation, that was the issue. These motors are very tough, I have tested them a lot!!! But it can happen to any motor

ok smart guy. thanks...hope the kelley blue book holds up as tall as your forestor on a maine road.

moving onto the quarter century without an ej..

if the old subaru had a wikileaks type website, the front bearings have an interesting story to add to it...


new front bearings ordered. interesting to see that the vw AWD synchro van is the only other that has pressure from driven axles on the same exact bearing..the list for this one bearing is many cars, none are driving the bearing with an axle, just mounted to a spindle, as the other cars it installs on from the 60s into the 90s, are RWD. The only exception is for subaru many years, and vw.. 1985-1992. Both , ironically driven by 3 main bearing boxers.


strange fact of the day. Not as strange as an ea82 that can't spin a bearing spinning for bratmans teacher story. I have a teacher story, a teenage one.. probably should not talk fantasies here however.

I'd love to see the "ea" in the "ea" proven to be "experimental aviation". Having had more cars than bratman has had years on earth, the old sube has got a secret, and no one is talking accurately....the list of quadruple integrity over everything else subaru has built, to be buried like it has..

..on to my continued mission of truth revealed.

[boxer3maine]

arrived today, could have been better delivery. the pump has only 3 new studs (one fell out in shipping), gasket is ripped (but asks to use silicone in instruction paper) and the belt, assuming goodyear and gates are synonymous.
http://i227.photobucket.com/albums/dd255/soob87/old%20subaru/beltandpumpweb.jpg


not a gates belt,but still 3/4 inch (barely) and is still made of the tough material. This design belt worked a 7 year run for me, in maine no less… a –28F, ice storms, crazy fuels and even a spell with no antifreeze at all. The new pump has a passive impeller.. I am kinda upset over that. A tiny drill hole in the thermostat and go with it (I am sure I got one in it already anyway). It is indeed new, not reman’d. Upon looking under the hood to verify it is correct, I spotted yet another leak in the old pump, strange spot. Placing the area on the new pump revealed there is water coming out of the timing belt cover bolt hole. The old pump has a bad machining after all… the timing cover bolt tightened only slows it down.. it is drilled right into a waterway near the impeller on the water pump. It is warming up quick and tomorrow should be getting this done.


the new belt should stop the strange action on pump, aside from new pump being better. Tha half toother is going to be buried in a prts pile I hope to not find again.

keep the dayco in the tropics.. with inline fours. :lol:

[Kojak77]

I think your car is awesome.

[boxer3maine]

I think your car is awesome.

drink a litle bit of alcohol, it sure looks better. :)

[boxer3maine]

http://i227.photobucket.com/albums/dd255/soob87/old%20subaru/pumpblack008web.jpg

Seeing this shipped with yet the same passive weirdo for an impeller.. I thought back over twenty years ago, my friend had a dodge omni 1.8 liter. Same retarded phenomona with no where near enough heat in the cabin.. Those cars stayed just as cold as a sube, the little holley carb included...(ironically the carb suby ea owners swap to came factory on a dodge omni)

the trick for that one ended up a real paint job on the water pump dangling in the maine wilderness, (still doing that today to the sideways inliners).. and it worked.

So, I gave some quick layers of rustoleum and baked it. Will see how this goes soon enough..frigid is only weeks away. The pump is an a1 cardone, and seems a stamp of 2004 (?)...no doubt sitting around. The box it came in says "pro import" on it, never seen this, but it is a private label to a1 cardone products.

heres to a warm cabin in january.

[boxer3maine]

new pump and belt installed. broke 3 of the 5 bolts taking it out, and then needed a 2 pound sledge to smack it off the block. 24 years is a while...:eek:

new pump sounds like a supercharger, I hope this goes away. I did paint the casing, it is tighter than the box it came out of.

the belt timed in with a nuisance...took 3 tries. I finally settled on setting my own tension, as this is not a shrinker belt...it is within a quarter tooth on the correct tooth now and noticable.

the old sube has the funkiest sounds ever. Timing in the fire side is acting advanced.. will give it time before jumping the gun. Very nice sound..belt by goodyear is obvious stiffer, keeping time through the rumble ranges of 1500 to 2500.

upon taking the old belt out... it was off at least 3 teeth off the mark and it kept running.. it is a useless rubber band, belt only a week old by dayco. I kept it anyway...piece of crap momento.
I also took a chunk out of the old water pump. It was brittle and petrified.

now here is to needing some luck that silicone vapors do not explode anything, timing is not too advanced to predetonate... and that is about all I can think of right now.:)

forgot to mention front bearings showed up.. made by "koyo". Install can wait...

add another rockauto magnet to the fridge.. I got a dozen already.

[98Wagoon]

so is the weird journey of the timing belt finally over? Id like to hear how the engine sounds now. it must purr like some sort of animal.

previously you posted somewhere about having a spare set of heads that you were going to tinker with. what will you being do with them, and when? I think the old GL would be a menace with some nitrided/titanium valves and retainers in it.

[boxer3maine]

so is the weird journey of the timing belt finally over? Id like to hear how the engine sounds now. it must purr like some sort of animal.

previously you posted somewhere about having a spare set of heads that you were going to tinker with. what will you being do with them, and when? I think the old GL would be a menace with some nitrided/titanium valves and retainers in it.

the belt stuff is almost over..
I was looking forward to the crazy dewpont ride with the snow fog and ice to get the grimes out. oil is back to zero, almost took it to a hydrolock. Filter isno doubt bunged with no byapss. am liking that alot...

so the finale should be one more burp on the coolant, clean oil, clean filter (twice in a month for the reusable- prophetic choice to get one, it is working out well)

I have the spare heads ported, found some +1mm valves since gone in an internet disappearing act.. donlt really need them, I found the bottlenecks already and that won't take long. to clean up, remove springs, shave the guides..

I am simple ported heads right now on the current engine, not the max I have taken them, but is a helper. (I forgot to add that to the list of mods- maybe .5mm gain in circumferance, enough to be noticed).

no choice but to be clean, in the cylinders, the coolant side, and oil... obvious indicators now, the pig can't hide. :)

[98Wagoon]

its surprising the amount of grime the filter is finally able to pull out of the old girl. have you ever run the seafoam treatment to give it a fierce chemical scrubbing? perhaps coupled with the new oil filter it may work wonders. i didnt know the heads on the engine currently were also ported. Im sure it likes all the extra air it gets.

hows the transmission cocktail working?

[boxer3maine]

its surprising the amount of grime the filter is finally able to pull out of the old girl. have you ever run the seafoam treatment to give it a fierce chemical scrubbing? perhaps coupled with the new oil filter it may work wonders. i didnt know the heads on the engine currently were also ported. Im sure it likes all the extra air it gets.

hows the transmission cocktail working?

it was a surprise.. I think I found original block chaffings from original runtimes :unamused:.. the lifters have not made noise yet. I knew the turning point of crap winning with a regualr filter. pressure would simply go higher bypassing it. Good call, seriously to get the non-bypass. Beyond my idea, it has been kicking around for the ea engine a long time to have a real filter. Now the gaugeis the indicator.. gets dirty, goes towards zero.

I give the engine a engine flush, donlt recall brand, worked good. the type where you start it and take it to full warm, drain oil and refill when I first got it. the last blast for the top end was carb cleaner while running... that was november 2006. Could do the same thing again, seems it needs it. 4 years on todays fake fuel is proving the 9 to 1 goeds farther than the 9.5 to 1 when it comes to cruds.

the porting was a helper. But like all engines, the misconception in big port size related to power is not the truth. Alot of engines could suck through a straw (455ci for example) but if you got the cams and compression, it is wheelie time. The ea needs it for alignment, two timing belts are smart for alot of things, but staying in time is not one of them without some help. porting helps align. align == timing. (the nearly equal length plug wires is the real timer). low end and top end is noticable of course on the same oe cams.


If I lef it alone as oem, added say a .5 inch lift common monster.. it does not care what intake it is whistling through...it is gonna get up and go.

transmission is super slicked. 2nd gear synchro is slippery when cold.. almost like driving an old truck, manually awaiting the time to go smooth shift. :lol: Would trade it for nothing...I know it loosened up a few horses too.

[boxer3maine]

with the drama that killed the belt in the first place, leaving the smell of the dump by dysarts frying out the back end as a pan with grease in it... I had a hunch it may not make it this time. It sucked in a freakin monster, like every all my other cars that goes near that place in the wrong wind.

tonight I felt a few hitches on the highway, a cloud so thick the cars lights behind me were barely visible...and they flashed at me, so I knew it was a big pop in the gasket... and is still smelled like a frying pan with grease in it out the back...even after reliefing it. Stopping at the store in winterport, right off I-95, this storms breeze left the car covering the whole place in its own storm cloud... and thats when I knew it was the bad BAD chemistry I could not shake out of it. I have gone as far as this before in another old sube, and let it run with temp gauge buried (pretentious) as oil pressure stays normal. the gasket melted back in, and away it went. One more hillbilly try, then it is a change of heads and gaskets..
cleaned up, seals, ported heavily.. I really want to try the copper gaskets out, but this adds time to something I ought to be fixing sooner than later.

Ahh december. It gets worse in january... :unamused:

[bratman18]

intake gaskets? Kinda sounds like it. And they are pretty common on the EA82's

[boxer3maine]

intake gaskets? Kinda sounds like it. And they are pretty common on the EA82's


its got a compression kick out the radiator cap.. intake is still fresh, redilled, grade 8 bolts.trimmed to fit.

I hope I did not poke a cylinder wall...worst case scenario. Heads seemed good material upon tapping. No brittle flakes, even at the plug hole, peeled out nice.
assuming gasket realistically, and they go back to self sealed with debris already in the coolant. "pretty common on the ea82"

Silicone is like a damn bomb on this one...a few posts up , it was in my thoughts already.(I have bombed another ea with it already)

Will try some bars leak crud for now, it does come back out of skipping, and no appearance of leaks... hoping it is a chemical spell... :unamused:

the way that cloud came out.. wow. must have been 8000F :lol:

[boxer3maine]

its a goner. Thunderhorse is running on 3 legs. :lol:

Went and got some bars leak stop (not the hard pellet stuff), hardly slowed the leak down. Using old gaskets from another engine as a reference, I have guessed the leak.
All gaskets but subaru oem last forever.
they seem to have some strange fiber slammed onto a metal middle... useless even on a flat deck. No concept of real sealer gasket on the oem.. very strange.

Engine internals still very quiet, comically. Very little coolant in oil, no oil in coolant.. just simply ruptured the compression side into a coolant channel. Timing is right where I want it, belt install is good.

Cause is iridiums, new pump, better impeller, a filter that captures crud..a belt that kept time very tight.. all good stuff, no complaints there... and away subaru oem gaskets went to failure. It should be the last "anti engine" ingredient (subaru oem) I would have to tinker with.

next update should be 3 weeks or so... I have also learned the 9 to 1 pistons are the same as a loyale 9.5..maybe even less depression, as if even higher compression.. odd find. so it must be the heads giving it the 9 to 1..? to do a swap with the 94 heads I would have to do both heads. I am just going to do a fel-pro driver side (the side that popped) for now, as I have no complaints with runtime power.

these chores in winter sucks...:unamused:

[bratman18]

I say if you're pulling the motor to do one side HG, might as well do both, along with new intake gaskets, and oil seals. The kit is very inexpensive for those motors. I think I even have most of a brand new Fel Pro kit if you want it, I'd let it go for real cheap, and kit mail it to you.

[boxer3maine]

I say if you're pulling the motor to do one side HG, might as well do both, along with new intake gaskets, and oil seals. The kit is very inexpensive for those motors. I think I even have most of a brand new Fel Pro kit if you want it, I'd let it go for real cheap, and kit mail it to you.

just going for one. but if cheaper then 22 is an offer..:)

9392pt..

I found the others do not want to admit to the other little sube monster, the rx 1986-1989 in the parts list...some gaskets do not show rx. This does prove the felpro with a protective cover in shipping, is the winner, the rx is listed. The carb one 85-87. That is by far the biggest runtime after getting it to normal. The realtime thuds.. no escape.Add some crap to the pistons.. climbing its way to who knows what. My own timed in correct loves the high octane.

the linear to rotation oddity, like a v8.. I do not hesitate to do one gasket at a time. Especially strengthening left (drivers side) side over the right first. Doing the plugs left side first was rather silly... that can be added to the cause of problem. (the plug sleeve is in the the chamber a tad bit, increasing compression)

I did get this out of a spell when I first got it, and it just stayed content.
no getting out of it this time.

just ordered gasket, and remembered another odd fact. Right where I know the gasket is fried internal... there was an egr pipe full exhaust temp nearly touching the head when I bought it.. up above that is where it is cooked. Weird stuff removed a long time ago, but that is when I deciphered a possible HG fail soon (that was 4 years ago). Even with subearu weirdo gasket it went a long time. As oem, it would not have..and that is unusual. subaru does much better today, post 1990 (ej injection etc)

setup for a garage already, this won't take long. :)

[bratman18]

Let me check to make sure everything is in the kit, but I could do 20 shipped to ya if you want it

[boxer3maine]

Let me check to make sure everything is in the kit, but I could do 20 shipped to ya if you want it

that sounds good. Will keep in mind.

The intake gasket, was it you I talked to the last time? it has been a year or two..maybe 3? the last time it worked to replace it. This time is outright too nasty, and carb still has discipline. localized to #4 cylinder only..it even has its own hissing noise. A trait I remembered with the intake is on steep hills, car would skip. It is not doing that now. Cars behind me on the way to parts store got right out of the way.. half a gallon in 5 miles...as steam. Now it is just nasty..

having a few days till real work, am going to slip in a reusable silicone lined aluminum (home made) intake gasket just to put a theory to rest, get a peak at the top of the head inside the channel. It would make my day if it was this simple this time. The new timing is the best belt I have had..sounds like an ej in low rpm climb...that could be water after fire delays.. donlt know, had alot of power anyway.

that would be only reason to try the intake again..coulda sucked it right out of its spot. cross my fingers, hope to be that lucky.

[bratman18]

I tell you what, pm me your address, and I'll ship it out to you for free, that way if there's any gaskets you need during the fixing, you will have them right there. Let me know

[boxer3maine]

I tell you what, pm me your address, and I'll ship it out to you for free, that way if there's any gaskets you need during the fixing, you will have them right there. Let me know

now why would you do that.. unless I am the last 1987 ea82 on the road in maine.(I seriously do not doubt it)

I do have a felpro on order, will be here friday...and it is for the rx as well as the loyale rs. Felpro does all of them. Same as federal mogul, they really do good, extra. This past month has been an abyss.. everything but catastrophe...and it is still quiet in the guts. Crazy engine..

will do that if you go as raincheck.. extras seem a good idea ripping into this.
I have a pile of headbolts, four heads, even old gaskets....

[boxer3maine]

tinkering on this warm day, warmer than florida...ignoring the 9 degree low forecast in 48 hours...

I found the egr cylinder, #3, passenger side (against my first thoughts)..
plug soaked in oil and antifreeze, no blow by, ruled out valves and piston...the leak is so bad, the oil pump is exchanging realtime with water jacket and vice versa... this may be craked head. It is oh so quiet however...not even a hiss, and compression sounds good.

the driver side head has oblonged a steel plug sleeve.. something explosive did my little sube in.. but not completely. the back two cylinders were the target for whatever got in. (I have a hunch what it was already)

it is either head or gasket. mosty likely gasket of course... and it aint coming back. This is an easier head to thrash around, so it aint all that bad.

I ran it till near empty on coolant for a weekend one time trip about 12 miles, to the garage where work will be done warmly.fresh oil is mixed with antifreeze, but ok. Getting chances of cracking frozen crystals out by running it until near no water. if I had not upgraded ignition, I could drive it around like a beetle, air cooled.. but I overstepped oe boundaries a long time ago. :)

my first in 14 years.. a head gasket, or head... mometus occasion I guess, if to really think. The 3 subes I have had are near 500k miles in all.. just 3 of them. This is the first I have stepped up realizing what solid states can do. This of course finds every weak thing subaru installed.. as expected. The fel-pro will be a relief.

oh the intake gaskets, I upgraded those to the stiffer thicker, and they are good as expected.. from a couple of years ago. Lined them with silicone adhesive sealant and baked before install..upgrading them even more. they could be a forever gasket now...reuse them, they don't even squash. Never forgot the suggestion tho, thanks bratman.

EDIT: I guess I am not alone with these troubles.. the garage next door has a gran prix spewing the same thing as my old sube... keep your stuff clean heading to bangor area. (there really is alottery hit or miss crazy bomb)

if under the hood and you hear popcorn noises frying... your lucky if it goes away.

[98Wagoon]

good luck with the repairs! I hate to see a tank like this sidelined for too long.

[boxer3maine]

good luck with the repairs! I hate to see a tank like this sidelined for too long.

thanks. I try not to look at a past couple hundred hours of labor for too long...
a rollcage could call a sube a tank, almost, this one is just hardened to be normal.

I am looking forward to parking it safely. Still not as much work as a tractor trailer, but darn close, on a 1/10th scale, miles included. :lol:

I was setting up to move onto an american project (an older oldsmobile sedan v8).. then this. I would have pooped if this had happened to some fresh trade. wow. No signs of anyhting, livelier than ever..then this. :unamused:

there was good out of this.. the steam went a good several hundred yards.. not even an odor in the cabin. I could guess the old sube floats after the work. It only tells me one more thing: that egr (long since removed) really is a pig hiding stuff in the head gaskets, and in top of pistons/chambers. All else can be fixed by flushing and cleaning...the rest needs a physical teardown apparently. This is last chores left to even doubt. Castings proved themselves . I guess that is the tank of an old sube, the longblock sitting alone.

This one gasket now is to get it up and going sealed, the other one can wait for a nicer day. It may never even need it. the cylinder that let go has a means to drip back down through an egr pipe.. every other cylinder just kicks stuff out like boxers do. The ingredients for this was long before I got it. Been clean ever since..

working with torques in the cold is not my favorite thing to do. I even have to wait for the garage to heat up etc before even going into it.. alot of extra energy in other words, this time of year to get it done. Enthused.. but do not like what it takes sometimes. It is like a go cart in scale, I would swap an engine in its parking spot on a nice day.

[98Wagoon]

thats how I felt when my wagoon sputtered and choked on 495s almost 4 months ago now. had been doing all these nice things for it. making it happy. it was running better than ever then bam.. total loss of power.. and it hasnt come back from it yet.

[boxer3maine]

thats how I felt when my wagoon sputtered and choked on 495s almost 4 months ago now. had been doing all these nice things for it. making it happy. it was running better than ever then bam.. total loss of power.. and it hasnt come back from it yet.

as the fires get hotter, air cleaner, everything one does for engines..

even a brand new one can reveal where oem left it. The ea with iridiums (never had then its whole life) and the belt that is an exact length to keep timing tight, and a filter that actually filters oil...poof. the oe gasket suddenly sucks.

I am guessing being in a subaru realm, the ej has some coughs to give back to an owner. the day I blew a spark plug hole, is when I knew subaru has a line drawn for their engines, and some of us cross it. :lol:

the gasket has been pushed up a day sooner.. just get it done, not admit complaining.


try cleaning the cruds out if you take heads off of your sube.. may not have troubles again.

[boxer3maine]

Another update, another strange one for some...

the oblong plug hole sleeve is an act of physics. Ground, compression related. It is young enough to tell me when the passenger side timing is off in relation to where it sits on the driver side. This sounds confusing, but I understood.

the cure is simply locktite the plug, and next time when replacing for a new plug, the whole thing is magically sealed, locktite unnecessary. This is of course after verifying a clean sleeve install, and in this case it really is. Hence the seek of an explanation.In fact it went in snug, did not have to wait for deflate. That is another weird thing to wait for after tapping aluminum. Fresh holes tighten to new threads within minutes. don't panic over sloppy fit of bolt/plug on fresh tap.. it will wrap it.

the subaru aluminum tends to keep going even on stripped holes, this is the reason. One day the line is drawn and something has to get sleeved. This also delays ground in the spark by nanos, increasing fire dwell (this is good on fast heads, subaru = fast heads electrically).. its like adding a hotter step up in the spark plugs. if it pops a hg after sleeving, as common sense might dictate, this adds to the reasoning.

the sube can even take the flakes of a tap and throw it right out of the cylinder. some focus on this as a hg fail after tapping.. funny enough, it hardly ever is.

[boxer3maine]

no pictures, will add to this later. The new gasket has no fibers..great news. and there is a claim of no retorque needed. Even better.

the new one against the old helped me reveal the dud in the oe.. aside from crazy fibers failing to coolant (I'd say that was a bad choice of materials on subarus behalf).

the obvious error in two old ones compared to the felpro is halfway up the back cylinder.. a water jacket has crimped metal, too close to the cylinder with a bad stamp for the passage, leading to misalignment.

May as well add here the previous weeks to failure. Upon a ride I felt glass shards in my lung..stabbing hot prickles... and it upset me, the car wa taken apart and cleaned thoroughly..I tried blaming dust or whatever. it was the headgasket shooting invisible freakin stars. I have even blamed a radio tower for breaking a timing belt. Where does such strange fiber optic phenomena come from? I got a good fiber filled gasket guess. :unamused:

The last steps before outright fail was finding a grey substance in the oil filter...identical coloring to the oem gasket. I am looking forward to he pulverized photo. The rupture point was new plugs, increased compression, billet oil filter capturing it all, and a water pump that is no longer passive. This whole scenario is this simple.

Tomorrow, towed or not, off to the garage. :)
I'll leave off with my motorhead (always) thought for today. I hope tomorrow needs no luck, or major find in a block mishap. I did learn that the carb cams are the big ones, if to swap a block, everything can swp but the cams currently on spare block.. I look forward to throwing 80s injection cams as far as I can anyway. The 3.3 flat six proved to have an interesting setup, as injected can also run a carb due to timing. I guess the four cyl and its zero could not stay that diverse with no overlap...they had to respect delayed injection.


So, my gasket gets fixed on the 75th anniversary of another aviation legend (goonie bird dc-3). Fitting way to remember the old subes flat four, and 24th year … getting its first head gasket…and to think it was my fault in the first place. It turned fifty when the sube was a newborn EA82.

[boxer3maine]

felpro headgasket installed. Thank goodness for air tools. I would still be there going longer than the 9 hours it took already. 27 bolts at last count.
Had a craftsman torque wrench give it 57 pounds.

The old gasket was not oem subaru after all, so this is more than its first head gasket.. it is replacing somebodies bad purchase. The old one is grotesque.. there was not a single spot in the entire gasket that did not accept a nasty fluid. I am not sure how it ran like it did, pretty darn good. unless that is the definition of a "wet gasket".
:dunno:

made some quick vids, found something unusual for a 9 to 1 engine. It had flat tops and only two valve reliefs per piston. this has got to be ten to 1 and my appeal to keep it going forever.This also explains a few things. The exhaust studs are monsters on this already, and I blew out the threads yet again..and broke a grade 8 intake bolt. pistons thumped hard enough over the years, that the metal ring in the hg left its impression on what uised to be flat surface... a perfect seal for the new one too. This is also why I added a couple of pounds to torque over oem.

Tomorrow is the resleeve of exhaust, and new intake bolt.

still kicking the old bad leak into cylinder around, will take some time to clean up during runtime, it is sputtering etc random.. but very quiet even idle, steady does it.

[bratman18]

I will be sending that kit soon. And those damn intake manifold bolts!!!! There is always at least one that breaks!!!! Good luck with the rest of it

[boxer3maine]

I will be sending that kit soon. And those damn intake manifold bolts!!!! There is always at least one that breaks!!!! Good luck with the rest of it

that sounds great, as the fiber weirdness can only be the good gasket that is left by oem, and that is the side I did not do today. Another felpro is welcome. I did find a spot where one can check the leading edge of the gasket, it sticks out with timing covers off to be visible, and you can scrape to see what kind it is. The one I took off today was absolutely the most digusted hg I have ever seen...driver side no doubt still oe, very dry, like static bomb in comparison.. I guess they ain't that bad after all. Things should even out now in physics.

the intake bolt was my fault with the ratchet air at 120psi..it had a nice tap to SAE size, and intake drilled to match the thicker grade 8 bolt. I am lucky it was the bolt that broke and not my head with chunk of overcharged flying ratchet.

:lol:

[boxer3maine]

car back home, 3rd engine flush, oil pressure still not where I want. I did use the grease trick to hold rocker arms, maybe pushing that around. Filter looks good, no strange cruds ot oddities.. just a waitng game now. maybe burping oil channels in the cam casing.Healthy sound no doubt..advance not back to full yet, it is a waiting game. Never saw an air bubble free ea82 at the coolant cap. This one is there. :)

sad news: hit a black and white cat in hampden. it was so still in the middle of the road I thought it was a stuffed animal. I am sure its a goner, unless it was astuffed animal :dunno:
front wheel over, and thump on the passenger floor, and rear wheel went over it. RIP to the cat. I did slam on the brakes, little bugger was looking off in another direction as if poised to pounce. Pretended I was not there. Strange. :unamused:

[98Wagoon]

Congrats on the car bring back to life. Will be curious if it falls back into its ways after a few weeks. Socks about the cat. Perhaps it was already dead and frozen, thus the lack of effort to run..

[boxer3maine]

Congrats on the car bring back to life. Will be curious if it falls back into its ways after a few weeks. Socks about the cat. Perhaps it was already dead and frozen, thus the lack of effort to run..

seemed petrified, and no odors when I checked under car.

speaking of petrified, I guess I gotta wait for head to reground with intense work done. (driver side is much faster at this).. I rebored exhaust studs to a 1/2-20.. this means I should be able to tow the car by the exhaust manifold..and it still leaks. I have been through this spell before, it is a waiting game. if it does not conform, a friendly hammer gets it eventually. The flange bolts look colassal next to the little pipe. 3/4 inch heads. the two together equal one ea82 header diameter. Comical. :lol:

[boxer3maine]

a follow up, one day later.. all seems well, cold start went well. VERY thumpy. I guess it has never been full fired with the old gasket being a tease for the four years since I have had it. The flat pistons keep compression high enough to fire the cylinder through the gates of hell.. Today is hints of ethers, frying pan smell gone, and oil pressure learning its new tightened pathways. I coincide some of the unjury to my dads rig, I tend to declare dysarts parking lot an unsafe place often. Sure enough, his rig lost water pump, the car did a week later, the compressor blew a gasket exhanging coolant, the car started smelling like a frying pan, and using coolant. I finally blew a headgasket violently. Today, I give dad a ride home as they do some diagnostics for headgasket failure on the rig.

whatever happened was extreme, and an external source. It was a VIOLENT failure. I counted 8 compression ruptures in the gasket, two went external, all channels leaked except for the oil... an ode to some tough guts no doubt, it handled it all. Oil filter inspected only verified it. Here is to some clean air.. as a large apt building is burning down on my street as we speak. :unamused:

[boxer3maine]

http://i227.photobucket.com/albums/dd255/soob87/old%20subaru/compression.jpg

I was bored, found a compression ratio calculator. the number 51 is normally a 52, (learned from another suby guru) to account for chamber change with plug sleeve, and new gasket. 1cc reduction in chamber, and the ea82 will border exceeding 87 octane with non-overheat pings, but compression related. 10.2 to 1 is as far as normalcy can go before problems arise. The stroke is very small, making it dramatic, (just 1cc!) like a lawnmower compression.. one can't just slap any old headgasket in, as it may exceed low octane gasolines ability, predetonate and fail. Just 2cc of filth and wallah.. 11 to 1 disaster imminent. the longer stroke of the EJ does alleviate this today, by feeding more air, claiming a fake high compression, like the hp and torque by oem numbers written (easily to exceed of course)I tend to be addicted to classic math with the ea82, this is one of the attractions.

[boxer3maine]

http://i227.photobucket.com/albums/dd255/soob87/old%20subaru/hgasketweb1.jpg

this is nasty. the photo only gets one side, the other has two more catastrophes, and all channels leaked. Compression ring is broken on the side with mor arrows, completely away from gasket. It has been leaking internal since I bought the car, and did not really know. Upon taking apart finding lifters that do not squish like a loyale, flatty pistons, and a zero deck... this explans how I got away with it. Todays runtime sounds very thumpy (above freezing) and the rumbles and sounds of hard valvetrain, well lubed. I had no desire to go past 4k rpm.. very nice. will get video after I am sure of oil in final clean. I have never heard an ea82 like this one is running right now. 14 years...my only cars.:eek:

[98Wagoon]

that looks like hell! the car must be quite happy about its new gaskets.

now if only I can get mine to stop acting strange..

[boxer3maine]

that looks like hell! the car must be quite happy about its new gaskets.

now if only I can get mine to stop acting strange..

even after it takes awhile, the oil side goes to molecular to keep its own space.. fighting bars leak, coolant, and silicone, and whatever my sloppy hands scraped off and let fall in...it seems to be winning viscosity slowly, can take full load for bursts.

acting strange and subes I am guessing from now on is gaskets relation. Be it intake, head, even exhaust manifold can do silly things to runtime..
all of it gaskets...or rubber grommetts, water pump, oil etc.

and never let the fuel vent recirc stay closed for a year. :cool:

[98Wagoon]

agreed. seems like if theres anything wrong with my car its always related to a gasket blowing out. be it exhaust gaskets on my impreza or the current head gasket debacle on my forester. I just want to weld it all shut. no more gaskets.

[boxer3maine]

agreed. seems like if theres anything wrong with my car its always related to a gasket blowing out. be it exhaust gaskets on my impreza or the current head gasket debacle on my forester. I just want to weld it all shut. no more gaskets.

it'll blow something much harder without them. EJ has had enough time in existence to veer away from subaru oem, as subaru hardly changes to the fail... felpro, and other companies evolve to mistakes and make changes. This is good if you are into keeping a trusty engine running, they can only do better as time goes along.

I have nothing oe left except the middle block silicone stuff, and possibly driver side HG.. and that is proving to be tougher than a blown out plug hole.

this gets to the linear to rotation physics..Subaru had one side planned well.:e

[boxer3maine]

definitely won this chore, I was nervous about the cold, and shortest days of the year and japanese tolerances staying friendly enough to pull back out. new tolerances, etc...
Headed back to normal. The timing is tight enough to give an almost predetonate cold start, purrs right into 1500 rpm. No more blasting my neighbors with what sounded like 11 to 1 and a lopey cam anymore. This tells me there is still some friction, as closer to 2000 is where I left it set.. The oil is even recovering on its own. One more flush, check my overdone exhaust studs… and not think much of a bolt type sound rattling in the muffler, 12 feet away from the engine. I don’t recall accidentally dropping a bolt in the full chambered muffler. This process required me to think back to my first 1987…the oil routine, the waiting game. I forget what it was that had me waiting, aside from tightening passenger cam casing. the passenger side and the higher compression, it reminds me of some of the v8 routines. It would be enough to make some nervous hearing whatever noises it may have to make. The tolerances are very tight in the jap buggy. The cold season or not, it has still pulled through.. a note worth remembering. The sube Aluminum must a champ there.

heading back to pre-disaster,
it was a set yokohama geolanders... :)

edit: one tip I wanted to add, as books don't tell me much. Even with the perma torque head gasket, I tightened to initial torques, went inside and had some beef minestrone soup with mozarella and a corn beef sandwich on home made bread, took a nap, had a cigarette, yawned back to the garage to give one more go over with the torque wrench... the part of the gasket where there is a metal grommet for oil, the bolt closest to it, responded to yet another 1/16 turn into the 57 ft pounds. (A note to keep in this chore.) and the 1987 bolts do not look like the loyales. I swapped two 1987 bolts for the longer shanked loyale, forward and aft of head, the shorter ones. The middle one never gets bothered at all. As passenger side gasket ois simply a reversed driver side.. a brand name aside from oe, and reputable is a good idea. They never made a revision to differentiate drivers from passenger side.Driver side is correct even with crappy brans, passenger is not. Felpro has done a few things by my own sight, but not all that could be done. I am simply trusting oipinions and good materials now.

[boxer3maine]

made a vid, one can get a look at the head, block deck and pistons.
music is a strange thing I made, (avoids trouble with you tube rights).

http://www.youtube.com/watch?v=X2qLrMXqw_g


note the pits in the head near oiler hole, (top left in vid). This shows a mistake in retorque from previous gasket. There is only two bolts that need this, at the oiler and they obviously did not attend to it. The fail is a simple one, except for the violent chemical reactor built into the crazy gasket. I know just by looking at the felpro, there is no lunacy this time..and oem, if a choice, is not a bad gasket after all, (only if you get the version that came with loyales).

and this is for your deciphering. It is the area I associate my car having a "medical condition".


A Glenburn man was injured Thursday night when the pickup truck he was driving rolled over on the Cold Brook Road near Dysart’s Travel Stop in Hampden.
“The operator had some sort of medical condition and the truck rolled over and he got trapped inside,” Hampden Police Chief Joe Rogers said Friday.


merry xmas. :)

[98Wagoon]

the exhaust note sounds good on the old girl. also, at :42 it almost looks like theres a crack or a chunk missing between the valves. though it may just be engine crud. :iam:

[boxer3maine]

the exhaust note sounds good on the old girl. also, at :42 it almost looks like theres a crack or a chunk missing between the valves. though it may just be engine crud. :iam:

that is a high compression battle. Verify by looking into intake tract.. no crack. It is like a predetonator...I bet it fires without a clean plug sometimes.

my last v8 did this with joy, identical. It coincides with 10+ to 1 compression, of the real kind. :lol:

in fact, I have 6 heads, they all got it but the dished piston loyale.

..and I am glad his rotm stuff is over. Congrats to the bugeye, and bigd_wright. The poiint of me being here is not even showroom, but reality. I still feel realistically the old and new battle is already won and lost...some aren't ever going to.

now if the bad coolant mix hasn't gone past cryogenics for the ea82, it should be a good rest of a frigid month.

[boxer3maine]

I need a good engine flush, hydrocarbon chains won't stop fast enough..
silica gas, gas, and more gas and yet another gas mixing with that gas... oil is getting owned within 20 minutes.

a petroleum based flush for the aluminum subes?

I found a cheap one, but seemed to be a one off, no longer around.. that was four years ago.

any pro recommendations? not just seafoam, I mean a modern one...I bought a perfect cheap one jug deal already, even mentioned the chains getting stopped by flushing. Seafoam seems to be a seattle area foamy wet dream.

there must be another brand to get. Any ideas?

[98Wagoon]

have you tried adding some marvel mystery oil to the crank case after a fresh oil change? we did this after a vicious seafoaming, oil change, and adding the marvel to a 200,000 mile legacy and the car has been quite content. I know you were trying to aim away from the seafoam, though. I also used to run the slick50 engine treatment every now and then that I would buy from the VIP/autozone/etc places. those were run on the 4.0l jeeps I had, so I couldnt tell you if it worked since they were indestructable anyhow. maybe someone else has a better remedy..

I dont think the old girl would like kerosene poured into the heads with a fierce wire-brushing to follow.

[boxer3maine]

have you tried adding some marvel mystery oil to the crank case after a fresh oil change? we did this after a vicious seafoaming, oil change, and adding the marvel to a 200,000 mile legacy and the car has been quite content. I know you were trying to aim away from the seafoam, though. I also used to run the slick50 engine treatment every now and then that I would buy from the VIP/autozone/etc places. those were run on the 4.0l jeeps I had, so I couldnt tell you if it worked since they were indestructable anyhow. maybe someone else has a better remedy..

I dont think the old girl would like kerosene poured into the heads with a fierce wire-brushing to follow.

the kerosene based was part of the last flush, but it was not kerosene alone (kerosene is actually a lube compared to gas)..and its 3 quarts of oil to 1 quart cleaner.. the magic was simply based on kerosene.. the chemistry was instant, maybe ten minutes. I took freons out the last time (oil soaked parts responded to boiling point)

I did find one (http://www.amazon.com/Lubro-Moly-Pro-Line-Engine-Flush-500/dp/B003U53J0A) that mentioned contaminants as well as crud...as the engine has no crud, its been my baby. I would tear into it again anytime with pleasure. even the pistons were down to oe with a paper towel..even after the blown slimy headgasket oil/gas mix.

clean fire strong, blow gaskets. never ending, every upgrade needs another. :unamused:

I'll try local again, but I think I got the last rare stuff at a parts store that sold out, like parts america or someplace like that.

[98Wagoon]

I think Ive seen that one in the stores before. never used it, though. Im going to need something drastic at my next oil change on my forester from my head gasket woes the past few weeks. my oil is probably green :unamused: I dont want to do anything too harsh to upset the delicate copper goop I poured into the cooling system last week..

Ive decided every part I have to replace will be replaced with either oem or better. my $500 car is already showing its true value being up around $2000 to get it to live, only to need another engine anyway.

[boxer3maine]

I think Ive seen that one in the stores before. never used it, though. Im going to need something drastic at my next oil change on my forester from my head gasket woes the past few weeks. my oil is probably green :unamused: I dont want to do anything too harsh to upset the delicate copper goop I poured into the cooling system last week..

Ive decided every part I have to replace will be replaced with either oem or better. my $500 car is already showing its true value being up around $2000 to get it to live, only to need another engine anyway.

I used to "rule of thumb" book value as limits of repair cost.. but the subes world has a reward exceeding the oem build by a long shot.

I am at about $3400, my own work..4 years, and to other subes parts gathered (left priceless- I could be near 5k, realistically)

book value for something silly to look at is of course playing the same games as others going for 25 years...so I am not in a hole really, not many car owners witha chassis and available stuff are.Sube and non-oem just needs defense of real facts. I vote better than oem stuff too...everywhere one can.

if your block can do away with all goops and miracle seals, with real gaskets, even the fire resonance changes, keeping a cleaner oil. the sube uses the plug heat for water and oil movement, like a plumber sweats pipes. The cleaner the better.
:up:

[boxer3maine]

not much to post, thinking of the past year...summing it up. Today was a decent cold start, still kicking some crap I got in the base pan around froma headgasket fail.My first ever, in any automobile...and in a solid decked boxer that canlt even keep a superheated piston. Would be amazing to decipher...but can't. I blame the chemist playing with a very strange headgasket material, and then shipping it to the world as a legitimate product. This subaru does come from a time, when even federal mogul counterfiets could be found under the hood (cannot happen today of course).

I changed a 6 piece wheel bearing for no reason, messing with 23 year old pieces... if it were not for the book, I would not have known a thing called a ring nut was a separate piece of steel...it looked all as one, part of the rear end.

this year gained the strangest errors I have ever seen, regardless of brand of car, it is 24, no pampering.I know things are going to get interesting at times. I bought the car four years ago with stalactites hanging off the exhaust studs, it self created them. everything meets its maker, sometimes with a clock, to teeter into a victory or fail one way or another.

I have two tires that gained chemical breaks, one was near the headgasket that took all year to finally blow, the other was the exhaust system that carried it right by... the engine destroyed two tires. I have never seen this before either.

I found the subaru oem fuel vent recirc has never worked correct, and learned that the MTBE and ethanol in fuels goe to the top of the gas tank... add this to factors of bizarre headgasket blow out. The tank finally drained the lightweight superlights.

the floor beams of theis past summer has kept the car in a physical measurement fatter than it has never been... I proved to myslef some years ago, the car shrinks in the winter (all unibodies do). Another first for me.

thinking 2011... it is way beyond a subaru logo now, and has been, since I began with an ea82 in 1997. Stuff learned from this will be taken with me to many cars (my next one is also going to be old).

happy new year. know what ya got, make a decision to scrap or continue with facts.. be it a good one. :)

[boxer3maine]

I saw above freezing on the forecast and jumped at the chance to deepen the mix by draining some, and letting idle.

my question in the other thread about the felpro and cold and how it seats was in fact very serious. Today answered my own question...

to do a headgasket without doubts in the winter needs the physic of above freezing outside, and the rules of taking the engine apart inside a warm garage...and all it needs is a day, maybe even a few hours for the finale of outside being above 32F. the outside temp plays a role, it is a physics one... could be even the state of air the engine is sucking in, warmed up or not, the engine and new coolant knows its below freezing.

The fresh mix today in tested minutes intervals was mixing before my very eyes, I recapped it at -15F still diluting to proper... that is to say, if you add antifreeze below freezing? the final mix does not happen until above freezing. This is the mystery I was referring to, and answered my own questions.

the oil gauge is now faster than the tach... this only indicates that the gasket has had a problem at the oil port, pressure side, for the four years I have run it. An ode to a very large oil pump on a small engine no doubt.
:up:

[boxer3maine]

Today approaching 50F on january one is the luckiest thing since...

I can't remember.:unamused:

Flushed engine with seafoam, that stuff is silly gentle, but that is all that advanced has. It did find something interesting on the cylinder that blew chunks out of the gasket.. this asme cylinder had a pipe at the top of the head shooting madness into the intake, and california called it EGR. 4 years after closing it off, 24 years after first run, I am still cleaning out californian "wisdom." it is very much like a dirty ass.

anyway, back to a clean engine.. I found the oil was symptomatic of a break in period, no chemistry. Seafoam did next to nothing. I gave it some syntec and regular, checked reusable filter (5 times, one month = 50 bucks in filters not purchased. it is halfway to earning itself back already :))
I let it idle a long time... I saw heat like a desert wave coming off the right side and put my hand on cam casing. I reshaped it apparently...very hot. This same car did this same thing after tightening the same cam casing a few years ago. This does coincide with an EGR sucking mishap, a mistorqued head at the oil grommet, reshaping everything connected, including the valve cover (a valve cover swap revealed it was not even flat a few weeks ago.)

I am counting the clues, I blatantly overlooked, and feeling stupid. This whole routine was inevitable.. I demanded precise maching, to find an inevitable error. I'd like to thank california, and suiciders in their garage with an exhaust pipe in their car cabin in sealed garages calling it an end.

Extremely thumpy engine, it is not liking 87 octane right now... I hope I did not exceed the gentle boundaries subaru oem created.. the head is a brick and the casing is conforming, but this time of year and these type of gains is just not a smart thing to do....

stay tuned, there may be a cam casing cracking post next..(but doubtfully at this point)

full oil pressure when cold, it may climb out, it may not.. so very like a new engine break in.

[boxer3maine]

several posts of babbling.. my sube and the net started with photos and less talk. it has been 6 years since then. I still do not photo people, not even pets...sube is still my target. In several thousand now, several cameras. My latest one was the cheapest, a nikon 4600.

limited camera, several mishaps never led to a search for a better one..this past year has been tough. From floor beams, to new wheel well, wheel bearing, headgasket…fast paint job literally just to smother in urethane of the real kind.. this is my photo choice of the year.


http://i227.photobucket.com/albums/dd255/soob87/old%20subaru/rotm1.jpg

keep your belt aligned, head up, chest full of air.. and keep moving.

I think I heard that in a militant movie... a cold ending , but an inspirational one.

photo date is aug 17 2010.
my choice aside from metaphors and imaginitive art like reasons (none of that applies to my motivation).. is if you look at the closest pulley, and the one the belts go to in the background... I somehow aligned it to a pixel blindly with that tiny freaky camera in one hand and not even looking where the lense was aiming exactly. I declare it a self reward for working with so many photos, having rather large hands and tiny cameras...

I hope to go for at least a larger lense glass, even if not removable (pentax has several).. anyway, off to 2011.

[98Wagoon]

I like this picture alot, also!

[boxer3maine]

I like this picture alot, also!

thanks. I like to show that you do not need $10k for a camera.

there is alot of best of 2010 lists out there from big news to local news, I still look for car mags etc...
in coming days they should be popping up all over.
there is always a better than others.

[Bu11dogg2]

She up and running yet?

[boxer3maine]

She up and running yet?


of course... but I was worried about debris, chemical and physical. This evening needed some air in two driver side tires, the physic monster must be going back to a normal direction. :lol:
Down by the tire pumping air in, I know I have won just by the sound of the idle. Pressure relief is hanging on longer and longer to normal pressure, I really did reshape it. Funny enough what I thought was friction, may be the opposite..the pump needs resistance to maintain. I can only guess I worked it into very content, waiting game worth it.

http://i227.photobucket.com/albums/dd255/soob87/bbe9_1.jpg

Another factor in headgasket rupture (one of at least a dozen I gave it :unamused:) was bad connect to the thermal switch on radiator.. this also conquers static pressure, as well as kicking on when hot. Above photo is heatshrink tubing, going to get a couple of things with this, the alternator wire as red, heatshrunk should help, and the radiator switch done my way.

I could do the whole car in this stuff. Between that and LED bulbs, the alternator can go a looong freakin way taking it easy...

[boxer3maine]

almost two weeks since gasket, for records sake, i wanted to record how unique it stays until it settles down.
a few weeks and it won't sound like this.. in this vid it is just finding the clutch again, oil pressure relief finally going back to another direction.

http://www.youtube.com/watch?v=8BIipAjzTMw


from 3 yrs ago, same camera, to today, same month.. it is quite obviously compressing alot more by sound. I may take the advice of heat treating another pressure plate, and adding a new disc this summer.. but only time will tell until then. The headgasket has been incorrect the whole time since purchase.
edit: i forgot to describe how it felt to drive... the slip clutch was a steep hill near center st bangor. the engine is in a different realm.. where it sounds almost throty like two barrel, was not even half throttle. it is headed back to 9k rpms... for real. I also got the no stretch timing belts, amercian branded, this allowed me to .25 tooth an advance for the cams, some of the unique bellow may not go away, I am hoping it does not.. but warm weather will gain some on the belts, no matter how good they are.

[98Wagoon]

the interlude on that video was outstanding :lol:

the car sounds angry, in a happy way. I like it. when you opened the door and you could really hear it idle it definitely had a weird chug to it. maybe it will work itself out over the next few months.

are you planning to do the other head gasket soon or wait until better weather?

[boxer3maine]

the interlude on that video was outstanding :lol:

the car sounds angry, in a happy way. I like it. when you opened the door and you could really hear it idle it definitely had a weird chug to it. maybe it will work itself out over the next few months.

are you planning to do the other head gasket soon or wait until better weather?


my microphone is 48khz, and my pc chops it into horrifying..
the h.264 encode is fast, but sound makes me angry, more than the sound it isn't being. what you hear in vid is not actual... real life is impressively bass thumping (I love it) :lol:

I hope to capture that someday nicely.

the other headgasket is also not oem, and quite the rock... a plug hole blew out before it never blew. No leaks external, nor internal..

an easy test for any engine is rad cap off and look for any air bubbles at all.. no air = sealed.. any air is a leaker.. the boxer like big engines , can go a loooong time with a leaker. This ea82 I am running now is the first I have ever seen in 14 years with no bubbles whatsoever. Am liking that alot..
it does tell me oem shipment of these engines was less than stellar. :unamused:


the chug is gonna be famous.. shhhh. the same engine hits 9k+ rpm...

[98Wagoon]

Id like to hear an HD sound type recording of the old ea. carb'd engines are something Im starting to miss. my twin 1988 AMC Eagle wagons never let me down. my forester has the bubbles you speak of. and very, very bad head gaskets :lol:

[boxer3maine]

Id like to hear an HD sound type recording of the old ea. carb'd engines are something Im starting to miss. my twin 1988 AMC Eagle wagons never let me down. my forester has the bubbles you speak of. and very, very bad head gaskets :lol:

as long as it fires.. it is staying dry enough to continue.. :lol:

when I took the head off this one, one cylinder literally used half of its chamber to stay firing, while the other half lost to coolant.. amazing.
(that is what gave enough to drive home)

the carb sounds are awesome.. the tightest four cyl I have heard is the ea81, and a car like ken block drives in the classic rally. .an old ford mk2.
I heard some socal restores of the ae86 four cyl, and even a fiat 850 with a carb and 3 mains as an inline (little engine)...

they simply cannot advance a zero anymore than that.
in the vid on second start, the kickback is the indicator.. cannot go anymore advanced on the cam and get away with it.

[98Wagoon]

nowadays they tune in "advanced cam timing" to help the horsepower ratings and engine... stuff.. gone are the days that cam timing was set by what tooth on the gear you put the belt. it reminds me of my uncles 1970 chevelle (I know you had an affair with a chevelle in your time). when I lived in Haverhill ma my aunt and uncle lived next door, he would fire up his chevelle and it would vibrate my bed from 100 feet away. it has a 454, bored .060 to 460cid, some other things he has refused to tell me. he had in on a dyno once, back in the late 90's. it was ~500hp to the rear wheels. the car would wake me out of a sound sleep. it was all engine. and just as difficult as any carb'd engine. I even ran out of my room on my girlfriend at the time on a few occasions just to go for a ride. I dont think she ever understood it. probably why Im still turning wrenches on cars and shes married with 3 kids at 26 :lol:

[boxer3maine]

nowadays they tune in "advanced cam timing" to help the horsepower ratings and engine... stuff.. gone are the days that cam timing was set by what tooth on the gear you put the belt. it reminds me of my uncles 1970 chevelle (I know you had an affair with a chevelle in your time). when I lived in Haverhill ma my aunt and uncle lived next door, he would fire up his chevelle and it would vibrate my bed from 100 feet away. it has a 454, bored .060 to 460cid, some other things he has refused to tell me. he had in on a dyno once, back in the late 90's. it was ~500hp to the rear wheels. the car would wake me out of a sound sleep. it was all engine. and just as difficult as any carb'd engine. I even ran out of my room on my girlfriend at the time on a few occasions just to go for a ride. I dont think she ever understood it. probably why Im still turning wrenches on cars and shes married with 3 kids at 26 :lol:

today they just call that avcs or vtec..
but single cammed for 8 cyls needed not much to play anyway. advancung a pushrod was not a good idea.

these extras only get applied to sohc, or dohc.. and typically 6cyls or less.

a four cyl is the biggest lesson in it, japan I believe is the first to actually market it, but it has been around for a very long time.

the point is to get over the overlap that may not be big enough to advance faster...even a 6cyl can lose at 120 degree. A v8 hardly ever loses at 90.. and a four cyl needs a nasa scientist. :lol:

[boxer3maine]

The dainty sube went for a ride,(I may call it thunderhorse again, for now, it is not worthy of the name)

Still awaiting real oil pressure (relief stuck open- but engineis very quiet) and a static pressure waiting for a place to go. the felpro is tougher than a motherboard burn-in on a new pc.. if you are familiar with that , you know what I am saying.

tonight, simultaneously, a headlamp and parking lamp went out.. static bomb found its exit. it has only been 20 something days. It was about freaking time.

4 more xenon charged 9004 ordered (lovin those cheap bright blues) and the parking lamp is left at a mystery: no short circuit, new bulb, and still no light. The LED I installed as the little xmas looking light survived the ordeal. This is good, else half of the car would have been no lights at all. Now I know what that tiny light is for...hardly noticable when the others are working. No doubt necessary when they aren't. As if subaru analyzed this static stuff and thought about it for real..

upon letting idle, very rich carbon monoxide odor... the cylinders under new gasket are just starting to go where they have been for many years contently. It is like waiting for a fake fire to become real.. all while it is firing.

next step is explosion or back to normal completely...

I hope to get the sound of how lively this freaky little engine is before anyhting else happens.. I have driven it for four years with an incorrect headgasket, and only the new one proved it to me, I had no clue whatsoever. four thumpers thumping strong.

forgot to add that manifold bolts took an 1/8th turn or so more today.. this coincides with what must have been over 800F out a well timed valve to bend it...now allowing itself back th other direction. to tight... a freaky thing this engine does.

I keep a log of the car elsewhere , tend to humor this place with what used to be more photos and quick blips, wanted to add that about the fail- a possible danger if a gasket does what mine did ... and it may be in relation to thermite and crazy old headgaskets. Modern brands should be in the clear forever.. but there is a chance that even the early legacy generation has some of the madness. There was a law passed in 2000 in relation to lies about brake materials making it into the country, headgaskets may also be in that realm, remembering the late 90s forestor 2.5... it seems crazy physics in bad gaskets made their way for some years even after the crazy 80s...gov't takes a long time sometimes.

if you knew the origin of "pig" as a subaru nickname.. you may not find it funny... it is not even subarus problem.

[boxer3maine]

drama continues.
swapped pressure relief from a loyale head, into passenger side.Intentionally left bottom bolt loose on valve cover...
about ten seconds runtime, a better part of a quart on the ground..

there goes the pressure relief malfunction theory. :unamused:

it occured to me if the gauge exceeds limits it will literlly function backwards...so this leaves the engine in the 110psi range. Every inkling of whatever is under the cam casing is oil soaked. it is indeed working...Valves are making a hellacious noise, passenger side.. will not even give a hint of letting up.

I may be headed for a loss on this one, if to trust oil gauge, and how fast oil is breaking down.
to better put it into optimistic:


From and including: Monday, December 15, 1986
To and including: Sunday, January 16, 2011
It is 8799 days from the start date to the end date, end date included
Or 24 years, 1 month, 2 days including the end date
Alternative time units


8799 days can be converted to one of these units:

760,233,600 seconds
12,670,560 minutes
211,176 hours
1257 weeks


if it blew its cookies right now... I should not complain.. but will anyway.

[bratman18]

I still have an EA82 motor that has what I believe to be bad rings. You could have it for a pug wheel!!! Then maybe you could tear it down and rebuild it or use it for parts

[boxer3maine]

I still have an EA82 motor that has what I believe to be bad rings. You could have it for a pug wheel!!! Then maybe you could tear it down and rebuild it or use it for parts

I've already got an ea82.. from you. It has the loyale dish pistons, inspired to play with turbo on that one, if the same head is not whacked.

I think I found a routine for these with egr hooked up too long, and it is sad..

this one only had 104k when I cleaned it right up. The loayle engines, I have unhooked itin the 120s to 130 and they responded right away (I am sure it is the lighter compression that saves them). This one fired any harder I'd blow a headgas... no need to say that any more I guess. :lol:

I am deciphering an electrical giant, the valves may actually be a result of a pinger.. which is still not good, could pop a head. :(

most bizarre episode I have ever had, and it has been this car, for the third time... reminding of differences to anyhting else I have run, and the paint with iridescence is about the only real thing to change like something never encountered....alien, out of this world, extraterrestrial...

[bratman18]

Yeah I know you already have that one, and that is a good runner, this one would be good for parts or a complete rebuild. Just throwing it out there. Good luck with yours!!

[boxer3maine]

Yeah I know you already have that one, and that is a good runner, this one would be good for parts or a complete rebuild. Just throwing it out there. Good luck with yours!!

it is tempting.. the more heads the merrier.

I got 4 spare, two on the current engine. funny enough, a long freaking time ago...

(conversation as old as the car)... "the heads will be the end of that engine".. other than that it is a freaking rock.

I knew to smooth ports, align.. what I did not know is the physics from all the crazy gaskets for sale.. even the felpro is proving to be some chemist lunatic playing smart... if it loses before it never wins this time, I am making my own out of copper.

[boxer3maine]

today went to start, no battery, no nothing.
popping the hood allowed the key to kick on..the rumble of the hood shook something to work.. I thought: there is nothing loose, (I put the car together)

the static bomb has found the world , and wants out..
it shut off again, got under the hood, grabbing a perfectly good battery cable kicked key on again (no loose wiring)

key off again.

I then grabbed a fusible link on the overflow bottle, key on again...no problems there either...

car started. valves making noise, passenger rear, near the dreaded nuclear bomb location of a once functioning EGR..

grey oxide in a disappearing act in the billet filter, no bearing type elements.. car is frictionless as they designed. pressure high, gauge reading low.. volts up near 16, and coming down, sometimes erratic..never below design.

conclusion:I believe the subaru had some active nuclear.:unamused:

sprayed some liquid wrench on terminals, carb linkage and even gave some down the cable...the valve(s) randomly almost quiet, engine livelier than ever. Exahust leaks remain form the explosion of headgasket fail melting holes in the <2 year old piping.

I remain optimistic.

[boxer3maine]

rising sun still has some reasonable ea82s. This is a response specifically to a carbed ea82...
http://i227.photobucket.com/albums/dd255/soob87/other/ea82.jpg

the resurfaced heads and non-oe headgaskets option (they even acknowledge "upgrade")... seems tempting.

A recent talk with a multi-million mile guru, and I am not to get uptight over the sube..

words like cryogenics to new welds, new gaskets, steel sleeves, iridiums, and a frigid it has not had yet....

I just need to run it slow and local until it is done. the lack of start was a static compression, enough to stomp 60hertz of electricity (that is twice I have squeezed the little buggy to a stand still :lol:).

even some thick framed tractor trailers deal with this sometimes in cold snaps...that did compliment some more steel I welded in this past summer.

[98Wagoon]

thats not a bad deal for essentially a brand new ea82. something to look forward too in the summer time? nothing like a good heart transplant to keep a sube feeling young.

[boxer3maine]

thats not a bad deal for essentially a brand new ea82. something to look forward too in the summer time? nothing like a good heart transplant to keep a sube feeling young.

not for me near future, I have a spare.. and may go for a second spare.

that would be 8 heads and cam casings, two long blocks out of the cars, and the one that is running now...

learning the secrets and tips in the chores of removing/replacing, I look forward to doing something special to one of them. I did get dibs on usage of a garage, and an allowance to heat it...don't need to wait for summer like I originally thought.


anything happens now, I got a means to go about it on my own. :)


as it is, some of you will not even recognize the sounds of my "little" ea82 as an ea82... and I am quite serious

[98Wagoon]

even better! garages are a rare animal it seems.

with the exhaust on my forester, though a bit bigger than the ea82, if not looking directly at the car, you would think you heard a v8 rumbling by.. I cant wait to hear the ea82 in all its angry glory when its ready

[boxer3maine]

even better! garages are a rare animal it seems.

with the exhaust on my forester, though a bit bigger than the ea82, if not looking directly at the car, you would think you heard a v8 rumbling by.. I cant wait to hear the ea82 in all its angry glory when its ready


I only learned of headgaskets by oem being part of the engine retarder a few years ago, thought nothing of it...

until upgrading coil, wires, a modern alternator, the sleeves and iridiums...

its as if they gave it a thief to match all electrical thrown at it.. instead letting the damn thing fire and disperse.

this goes with the little static bombs I have been getting from new gasket.. new paths never had.

If anyone remembers the loyale from a gl, driving both.. the loyale with less compression seemed more powerful becuase subaru changed the headgaskets (the gl/dl has an oem nightmare)


when allowed to fire, they all sound good..big small lo compression or high. they could have just let them go back then, but it was a live and learn I guess, taking risk away.

[boxer3maine]

I found the bad gaskets.. they even have the gaul to cross reference them to reputable names.

I have babbled of the strange material thiefing everything to the point of nuclear is simply called "graphite" (would not have guessed it)...this gasket in photo is what went absolutely insane on my engine. same colors, dimples..but a metal ridge is missing.. this means there is more than one dufus gasket out there...graphite is the key word.

http://i227.photobucket.com/albums/dd255/soob87/B95mWeBGkKGrHqQOKpoEyjCyz12BM7FTh3SW_12.jpg
as I have said, and recorded on video: my car was even hit by lightning while driving. This material is the loser. :unamused:

while listing is up here it is on ebay (http://cgi.ebay.com/ebaymotors/Subaru-1-8-Graphite-Head-Gaskets-Pair-85-94-_W0QQcmdZViewItemQQhashZitem1c17629913QQitemZ12065 1421971QQptZMotorsQ5fCarQ5fTruckQ5fPartsQ5fAccesso ries)

the felpro is not graphite, but does claim to have a non-stick surface, color is blue and says "perma torque".. the ea82 could take a slab of copper and run longer.. these overthunk gaskets are for northwestern babbling origins of this engine.

here is an interesting quote from a felpro engineer, article is from november 1998
ford and gm both had particular engines that could not do the grpahite.

"Graphite is a good material, but we don’t think its the answer for everything," said Marty Novil, chief engineer, aftermarket, for Federal-Mogul‘s Fel-Pro product line. "We prefer to use a toolbox of materials and technologies to select the best gasket materials and designs for a particular application."
One of the drawbacks of graphite, said Novil, is that it must be protected to withstand exposure to oil over the long term. And although graphite has good sealability, it can crush and extrude. Consequently, some of Federal-Mogul’s aftermarket replacement gaskets for OEM graphite applications are nonasbestos composite materials on solid or perforated steel cores. However, others are graphite or MLS material designs.

The gasket swapped just may be an original afterall.. I really canlt complain..excpet for the physics, stories I can't even put into english.
I guess this explains the changes...for the better :)

link to article (http://www.enginebuildermag.com/Article/2585/gasket_technology_the_science_of_sealing.aspx)

that old gasket may have been on there long enough to smell deionization for several months to come. that is a power I do not want to encounter ever again.
EDIT:
another key word to help avoid a bad gasket is "anisotropic". A tough gasket does not play with this chemist hermpahrodite babble. FelPro has veered away from this, as far as I can tell, since the late 90s. If your car is described as mood swings, and silly electrical anomolies..mysterious coolant usage in small amounts formonths at a time using nothing..It could have the strangest gasket ever shipped to mankind. Simply look at the edge of the gasket.. if it is a hard gray, that is something subaru used successfully (I should post a photo of a pair I kept- 165k faultless from an ea82).. the grey color I refer to appears wavy and thin on the edges with a metal in the middle that rusts..(this can feed a thermite fire). The bad gasket has a double whammy.. a chance for explosion, and a means to ignite a thermite grenade.(ever see half a gallon of water spread out over 3/4 mile 3 times the size of the car?)

In an attempt to satisfy a definition, I found the old gasket had a suffix of "PJ", learning that is nonexistent, it must have been a felpro "PT". I may have had an early version graphite weirdo from felpro themself.. hard telling, when there is no answer.

..and another note for those who just assume give up on good gaskets: ALL companies recommend multi-layer-steel, no bs gaskets... and they don't get them. Especially foriegn cars, like they can't defend themself from bad products. When ford and GM went through this spell in the 90s, it was quickly resolved, and even warranties changed. subaru is not that forgiving...

c/n: avoid bad gasket by avoiding keywords, anisotropic, retorque and graphite..

and multi layer steel is the winner for aLL engines known to man.

[boxer3maine]

a hunch that the little buggy sucked in an element only known to bangor maine, as I have choked other cars since 1994.. local only, same symptims. the sube popping a gaskwet is well explained in posts prior to this one.

After finally hacking the insanity of the oe plenum with a cheap mr.gasket 4x2 that you may find on other round topped carbs (universal for 50+ years) I sought a filter that may be better than the paper element and found one!
this one has a ten year 100k mile warranty, some cotton fiber something or other.. increasing micron catch of flying uranium, oops ...I mean bangor.. :unamused:

http://i227.photobucket.com/albums/dd255/soob87/old%20subaru/41SENA38ZXL__SS500_.jpg
spectre 48092, it is rather pricy for a tiny thing like this (still only 15 delivered).. but this filter has an extreme job to do.

realizing the cheap setup I made balanced heat and cold, stopped all storms.. and created no storms, and allowed pcv to stop recycling bombs into the carb...it is worth the little filter. not going to change a thing.:)

http://i227.photobucket.com/albums/dd255/soob87/old%20subaru/th_underhoodAug2010.jpg (http://s227.photobucket.com/albums/dd255/soob87/old%20subaru/?action=view&current=underhoodAug2010.jpg)

[-boz]

I would use this company over Rising sun, I ordered a 1.6l DOHC for an Isuzu from them and it was mint. It even had the cross hatch on the cylinder walls.

http://www.nippon-motors.com/subaru.htm

[boxer3maine]

I would use this company over Rising sun, I ordered a 1.6l DOHC for an Isuzu from them and it was mint. It even had the cross hatch on the cylinder walls.

http://www.nippon-motors.com/subaru.htm

I knew there was another one, thanks for posting.. the winter web local is like living in a bad cage.

:)

a simple update, I ran the billet filter without the filter, shot up to 80psi, then back down. Still hellacious noise from #3 cylinder (that one has something nasty working out). This reminded me of when I drilled the heads around exhaust port, a downfall for the ea82 is "stuff" via an act of physics (chemistry that demands air) goes in but does not come back out. I could only guess I would need a cylinder head at a minimum if I did not drill them back in 2007...as it is pushing the original fail odors out after a long idle, full warm (took a long time today :lol:) kinda like a bad chemical in a frying pan. A noisy ride to give it some fuel, letting it sit through the arctic spell...

another oddity is using true grade silicone on the cam casing, nothing grounds it but the valves as a bridge... it loves the hot steel valves heading to final seat. This summer chore is half a day or less. I am going on 25 days or so...

freakin winter with a japanese car. :e

[boxer3maine]

little update with a little spectre filter. same one you could find on a 1928 model t, or a 1960 impala, or an 87 subaru.. 2 5/8 neck one barrel for most others, leave it to japan to chop that in half for two barrels.:lol:

found a caustic event on the old filter, and no light passes through.. I may have ruptured the headgasket on my own, this one fault overlooked. I even felt electrical change after removing and replacing...wow. it even looks a hundred years old. :unamused:

valves making all kinds of noise, #3 cylinder, strong odor of everything I have done the past 30 days...

liquid wrench on the throttle, seafoam, even castrol syntec has a unique odor...car wash, some kerosene and silicone. the felpro is provong to be a rock, I may update drivers side for something to do...(also a felpro but it is graphite)

the prognosis is good, waiting for one more flush, and vowed to keep 5w50 syntec for now on...

still in a risky state, thumpier than ever, manifold sealed back up, morphing is a good way to describe this old sube... now if it stays above
-15F, even better.

and this song by gakko 3 - "the 80s"


where did it come from
where did it go
it all turn out to be a fake something something (bla blah) - couldn't decipher lyrics
its so good to see you
glad you came
the last time I saw your face
you had a head of hair from outer space...

here comes the 80s
of something something...

there is something about you
that makes me ill
now that your here again
lets have a go on a something something...


unique tune, foriegn song.

[boxer3maine]

thisis the coldest snow I recall seeing in some time.. near zero and snowing. very static stuff...

boredom had me browsing about alternatives to keep a classic non-ecu subaru going, and I found a place called sjrlift..

email replay answered questions of the EJ22 carb adapter, and distributor from a ford escort.
EA82 bumpers I have brackets if someone wanted to weld up their own , thats all right now, on the carbed EJ all stock engine just add intake and disty Scott

no need to time the cams. This does show, the farther back one goes, the tighter the ej engine gets... I bet a 2 liter is livelier than the 2.2, etc etc doing the same carb build. Given draft is very strong for carbs, I would only do it with a modified oil pump, increase volme or pressure or both. Even ea82 can hydrolock oil, with the giant pump.

still awaiting humanly comprehensible weather to flush the engine in it now, below freezing and following instructions for the flush, decreases the workability of the flush... a december hadgasket fail is heck on earth for this one. New repairs need special attention, nature is not quite allowing it.

and today in history, (my bday) as I poke fun at seattle
January 25th 1856 Battle of Seattle; skirmish between settlers & Indians

and can't forget the 6 foot 4 giant that welded ships, a war hero to the point of undocumented, born on this day as well.. my grandpa I never met. I believe it adds a voodoo to my day today.

[98Wagoon]

happy (technically late, now) bday, boxer3!



sounds like the old thumper is getting along better these days.. or at least trying too..

I had my own snow adventure with the cooling system in my forester. I'll take a spring day any time, even with my old winter construction clothes. seems to finally be holding steady. only took about 8 hours of work and shoveling to find the car, then install the new radiator.

I wonder what will let go now?

[boxer3maine]

happy (technically late, now) bday, boxer3!



sounds like the old thumper is getting along better these days.. or at least trying too..

I had my own snow adventure with the cooling system in my forester. I'll take a spring day any time, even with my old winter construction clothes. seems to finally be holding steady. only took about 8 hours of work and shoveling to find the car, then install the new radiator.

I wonder what will let go now?

hey thanks, I am as young as my subaru. :)

yes, tomorrow, in the frigid I am dumping the flush in and flopping around on the ground. This weather is freakish.. looking at this dates history there was an all time record broken in just 2009 of -26F...
tonight it is 15 degrees below their forecast at -10 right now. The several days of this is just freakish, no wild minnesota stabs, it just stayed here...
do not be surprised at what lets go along the way. If yours is prophetic like an old one, the woes are over .. (reeling in injuries before anything justifies it) subes can do that...figure it out later why they did what back when to match what should be happening now. :lol:

[98Wagoon]

:lol:


as the owner of a subaru with an engine that you'd buy off the lot and drive straight out back to the repair bays for the head gaskets I have a feeling my troubles will start up again when the time is right (wrong). there was nothing like laying on my back on the snow, on a cardboard box, that was sliding, trying to jack up the car and take the radiator hose off.

turns out antifreeze tastes like **** and burns a touch in the eyes. but I did see all sorts of interesting things come out of that radiator. basically all the weird miracle chemicals I put in it came puking back out. I think it was trying to tell me something...

[boxer3maine]

:lol:


as the owner of a subaru with an engine that you'd buy off the lot and drive straight out back to the repair bays for the head gaskets I have a feeling my troubles will start up again when the time is right (wrong). there was nothing like laying on my back on the snow, on a cardboard box, that was sliding, trying to jack up the car and take the radiator hose off.

turns out antifreeze tastes like **** and burns a touch in the eyes. but I did see all sorts of interesting things come out of that radiator. basically all the weird miracle chemicals I put in it came puking back out. I think it was trying to tell me something...

it is never right.. until deciphering how weird it can get...
this cold must be good for letting little oxide critters go into fluid.. block density gets to stay its own true self...summer does the opposite, all while running better than the rest of the year. It is part of the wrong time right time thing no doubt...
if its just antifreeze, no problems, but of its oxides mixed.. damn... 3 months from now something could exctrete from your eye as a finale. :unamused:

[98Wagoon]

maybe it will give me superman vision... I flushed it for the required 15 minutes, though. still sucked. by summer I'll have pulled the engine out, machined the heads, installed new pistons rings and bearings, new metal head gaskets, all internal seals and gaskets, etc, and prayed to all the gods I can and cant name in hopes that I'll never have to touch the engine again..

we'll see how that works out..

what are you doing for the flush?

[boxer3maine]

maybe it will give me superman vision... I flushed it for the required 15 minutes, though. still sucked. by summer I'll have pulled the engine out, machined the heads, installed new pistons rings and bearings, new metal head gaskets, all internal seals and gaskets, etc, and prayed to all the gods I can and cant name in hopes that I'll never have to touch the engine again..

we'll see how that works out..

what are you doing for the flush?
metal gaskets sound nice...
I have to make my own (and I just may do so)

the flush is by "gunk".. I could not remember, as it has been a couple of years.. but that was the winner for the sube. I give it less than 30 seconds, right back to normal. The seafoam stuff is a sick joke.. the subes can even carbon themselves on the oil side for their own safety.. what does seafoam do? hovers there like a tyrant refusing to let anything by the carbons hat need to happen..
I wonder where that stuff actually is a success anyway. I did like dumping it in the carb, but carb cleaner or injector cleaner is even better.

[boxer3maine]

engine flush.. did not work.

I should be nervous. The only demise for these is a clogged crank oil journal.. both heads are getting fed, the pump is straining at the seams...
I am still gonna call it physics...right to the end. It would be cool to see how high that pressure is, the gauge is in a gentle spot for us to see, and not all the pressure.

poked at a relief at the pump, that is good. the regulator spring and cup may be stuck, may check that next.

[98Wagoon]

if it comes down to replacing your oil pump, do the newer/larger ej oil pumps fit on the ea? I think the gl would be quite content later in life with a 10 or 11mm oil pump..


oh, and mine overheated today. had to add/burp the coolant and get some mystery air out of the system. a nice reminder that I need to stay on my toes, apparently..

[boxer3maine]

if it comes down to replacing your oil pump, do the newer/larger ej oil pumps fit on the ea? I think the gl would be quite content later in life with a 10 or 11mm oil pump..


oh, and mine overheated today. had to add/burp the coolant and get some mystery air out of the system. a nice reminder that I need to stay on my toes, apparently..

if its oxide in the system, nothing stops it but flush after flush..

it does win.

now that the silly filter swear ban is over (can someone fix that stupidity?!)

I increased oil pressure today by adding a shim, subaru oem, so now oil pressure should be at 50 nominal. Some car wash odors and now am certain a viscosity locally lost and locked at cam casing, #3 cylinder...slowly climbing back out.

I am learning as I go.. as you increase hp on the ea, you need to increase oil pressure to keep up with the draft. So this is twice I have gained since owning...still under the 130s max by a long shot, but can step up ignition once more now if I want

the trochoid is huge, it buries so hard it can leak from its own seam...not a small pump by any means, subaru even left a spot to use the seam as last resort, rather than pop a cap into death of everything. This is somewhere in the 110s psi, this on an ej engine would warp the crank. silly wagoon. :lol:

[squeethebee]

When you say fix, do you mean stop making people dodge the swear filter?

ed

[boxer3maine]

When you say fix, do you mean stop making people dodge the swear filter?

ed

no, it is plain silly to understand what in heck (uh oh)
a gibberish has to do with swears, or an asterisk.

I'll just come here with 4th grade mentality when typing, should be all set then.

first t was swear but asterisk, then some smart person adds a filter and says swear away filter will get it... now it is sillier than ever, in the history of computing and mankind as we know it.

[98Wagoon]

if its oxide in the system, nothing stops it but flush after flush..

it does win.

now that the silly filter swear ban is over (can someone fix that stupidity?!)

I increased oil pressure today by adding a shim, subaru oem, so now oil pressure should be at 50 nominal. Some car wash odors and now am certain a viscosity locally lost and locked at cam casing, #3 cylinder...slowly climbing back out.

I am learning as I go.. as you increase hp on the ea, you need to increase oil pressure to keep up with the draft. So this is twice I have gained since owning...still under the 130s max by a long shot, but can step up ignition once more now if I want

the trochoid is huge, it buries so hard it can leak from its own seam...not a small pump by any means, subaru even left a spot to use the seam as last resort, rather than pop a cap into death of everything. This is somewhere in the 110s psi, this on an ej engine would warp the crank. silly wagoon. :lol:


Im not even remotely sure what my car, let alone to newer ones, run for oil pressure :lol:

the more and more I have issues with my forester I regret selling my 96 impreza. it had a 1.8l in it with a 5 speed. even at the 230k miles I sold it at, it ran stronger than my car currently at 160k. and the 1.8 seems to have been able to take quite more of a beating. maybe back then it still had a little EA in its blood..

[boxer3maine]

Im not even remotely sure what my car, let alone to newer ones, run for oil pressure :lol:

the more and more I have issues with my forester I regret selling my 96 impreza. it had a 1.8l in it with a 5 speed. even at the 230k miles I sold it at, it ran stronger than my car currently at 160k. and the 1.8 seems to have been able to take quite more of a beating. maybe back then it still had a little EA in its blood..

1.8 is a magic number for old combustion chambers.. v8s never bothered with it, ie: a 3.6 liter with a benz crank has not existed...

four cylinders and engineers had no excuses to have sloppy fires to get over the no overlap..

injection may mimick it again someday, boost is as close as it gets, and we know how that gets..we all seem to be in the middle of nowhere in the little engine world: too big and not big enough.

[boxer3maine]

thought I was headed for doom... and then one of my two brain cells had a memory..

tightening the block, nearly siezes oil flow, I fogot I did that (center block bolt), and the head had 3 loose bolts, top right, found when removing... ridiculous. this means the block deck went off by whatver amount that was...and by loose, I mean less than real torque, but holding. I forced a fit upon new gasket...

I am waiting for this..gained a little pressure, in a normal way, relief is still buried at the pump, (not the heads), oil is spotless.. the port at the filter on the pump is like looking into a mirror. polished itself in my engine cleaning paranoia. So, do have pressure but not enough to be safe with.

at 31f today, it was not enough... it may yet fail, as another cold spell is coming, mr. felpro and his bright anisotropic compounds are by no means welcome at 5 below zero...

it is funny their theories.. maine sees 100 above and 31 below.. and that retarded gasket is supposed to be the champ.. gimme a slab of copper anyday.

c/n: it really may be the end of an ea82...forced to reseat to correct numbers on december...not going well without a summer month.

[boxer3maine]

http://i227.photobucket.com/albums/dd255/soob87/old%20subaru/boxiume.jpg

now that the car has created a radioisotope unknown to man.

the car is gaining on a curve of what seems to be 1.5 months back to normal, with no errors, interior of engine spotless.. oil flying.

the hint the other day that something strange was happening is when drops of oil came out of the oil pump seam and I literally watched it expand...as if self replicating. Then the iridium plugs hissing with no leak in their seats...all cold... no normal heat... 10 holes in the blown headgasket, a smoke trail a hydrazine mile long..and the radio to a song fixing the oil gauge...

this is not normal chemistry...I assume the iridiums being very hard have to beat up everything the cylinder has recieved that is softer...thinking 24 years of weaker plugs prior to the iridiums.. quite a nerdy science experiment.
I learned that atomic breakdown can happen as many infinite ways as there is reasons for earth existing. I found a cheap geiger counter, grabs gamma.. I ought to just buy it...catch the little buggers in action. :lol:

edit: be it the sunshine to kick me head into gear (bad pun) I remembered what I did for another engine that recovered a winter headgasket... marvel mystery oil. Added some, less than recommended.. took seconds to get some odors of where the car left off at failure. like a frying pan of someone's terrorism. This one is going to take awhile. comparing my last go with this is on a straight six in 1994, and it did end up losing as the block bent the long way. the boxer, upon my own learning, only drenches the cylinders even more with oil, and that is clever. don't even need full pressure to nurse it out. Back to optimism yet again. The problem, I truly believe is my locale, hit or miss like a flailing machine gunner.
I have gone through this, same engine,same car, maybe two years ago, gasket simply seated back into place, and it moved on peacefully. this winter was not so lucky..but am factually hopeful. The odds are great, and people are strange.. it is hard telling the exact source of an exact viscosity breaker on a timer that don't quit easily...for no reason out loud identifiable, except detective like facts of: last place it was parked before it went crazy.,and that would be dysarts truck stop. Just like the last event with this car, also dysarts, last place parked.

[boxer3maine]

today a whiff of moisture in the air, marvel mystery oil going to work, and a nearly 3 hour idle/throttle fidgeting getting the crap of the fail out of the oil.. It is an "oh my god" chore in the winter.. I am working the car to an orgasm (lack of better words)

this is a record to remember...50 something days later, all due to subfreezing temps. I kept it like a patient in intensive care. 7 gallons of oil, seafoam, marvel oil, gunk engine flush.. and if I had to buy the oil filters, my billett would not have paid for itself (my greatest purchase of 2010). This repair is nearly impossible in a maine winter...as soon as that coolant gets in the oil side, quite a battle.Could have kissed it goodbye, knowing what these do with it.

getting some smoke, things cleaning, idle pressure is at least 10psi, and the pump is ready to burst at its seams. Now if it survives long enough so I can say goodbye to this ****hole, I'll be one happy suby owner headed south... with or without it. happier with it of course.

landlords can raise the rent if they want... I can leave if I have to.

[boxer3maine]

finally won the heads oil flow today..
simple vid

http://www.youtube.com/watch?v=JaNHc-gpZpM

oil flow is still not all normal, pump is still backing up..and with the puff of smoke that let the tortured cam casing come back to silence, this now means accurate as I bolted it back up, proper torque pattern this time (this does not mean subarus numbers).

A hint of radon, enough to get dizzy is also leaving the sube. Need more warm days to finish this off...
It is hard to put into perspective what this survived. after getting into the garage under its own power, 2 cylinders..after driving it there... a milkshake of debris flying out every orifice, temp gauge buried (very short term), I just had to listen before shutting it off, heading into the chore, and deternined back then in december it was going to make it. The radon as its own byproduct makes sense if you knew. the chemistry of viscoity binding in is working.

24 years and 2 months...

the part of this routine now is familiar, and it is just a wating game. only my third time with many machines to encounter this, and have a survivor playing with chemistry only. amazing.
since december, 9 gallons of oil, 6 flushes, 7 filter checks (reusable), the chambers seating back in had the 1781cc down to 8mpg..and no carbon smoke.. it was eating every bit of it. stripped naked and waiting for a beard to grow.. or something like that.

digging at wikipedia once and awhile, older subaru info.. I found the japanese version of facts translated via Bing..

Compression ratio: 8. 7: 1 or 9.0: 1 (SPFI), 9. 0: 1 (carbs), 9. 5: 1 (MPFI)

there is still a mix up, the mpfi and carbs must be backwards written, the spfi is correct in showing it is indeed the lowest compression na engine (I had 2 of them)

A tell tale sign that they also had flat pistons and different chamber sizes is when you put a socket on the plug and the plug is too deep to keep a grip, because it is sunk very low into a tiny chamber. This would be a high compression head.This is something to check for an any ea engine. You could have a 8.7 piston, any sube... but on small chamber head that is a 9.. and then you could have flattie pistons, on small chamber, and that is a number that remains a mystery (1985-1987). It is supposed to be 9.5. I calced my own just shy of 10 to 1..and one mistake, such as gasket squishier than oem, could send it to 11...very small stroke only needs a .5cc change in the chamber to gain alot more than we bargained for.

any 8.7 or 9 to 1 sube can do turbo, right out of the box..and make it work no drama. the sube in this thread is the only one that cannot even begin to attempt it...it would not even burn regular gas.

[98Wagoon]

sounds like its back in action and doing well finally! :up:

[boxer3maine]

sounds like its back in action and doing well finally! :up:

still spewing out the pump seam (new seals, and bolts that take alot more torque than subaru oem)

I am headed for the fact this engine is definitely over ten to 1...It may even pump oil on the teapot gurgling physic alone....funny enough its gas system was like that for the first twenty. the trochoid is absolutely gargantuate without a turbo line or oil cooler. I could only imagine what the original owners of this went through, when this was all clean, new everything, thumping like a dragster.

subaru knows what they built. We have to figure this out later...

a cure as of now is simply adding viscosity, oil is tight, so very tight...I have a box sitting under the engine, oil has good odor, of course a bit aired out...and expanding as it leaves. I did this the last time I tightened oil system.. a warm day and a half hour is a win...dammit. another week of below freezing, maybe more. I have got it to a decent run mode, pressure at ten psi, all reliefs open.. this is fast win on warm day..this weather is not helping.

I look forward to contentment, some low drag high rated tread and I seriously want this timed....before it dies at a climax or whatever other wannabe tragedy is put upon me at the wrong time. :unamused:

[boxer3maine]

http://i227.photobucket.com/albums/dd255/soob87/old%20subaru/blackout001web.jpg

This is what center street looks like in the dark. This stems from a call I made to 911 that the telephone pole was sparking. No problems with power, pole was simply sparking. The fire department showed up, and I pointed it out, then went to store…came back to a wire truck that eventually fixed it. Alot of thoughts of my car went through my mind.. I speak of physics rarely, but this sube has got me twice into the babbling invisibles. I looked up and saw the 3 wires going by my car from above..and looked at the five meters and neutral pole behind it… I know damn well there is a 220v problem. Most recently, to keep this simple, I spoke of putting a cardboard box under the engine, and wondering why the oil pressure gauge had a higher reading. My car has been getting lifted for 3 years…26 pounds of mig wire later..hellacious amount of slopped on urethane…45 square feet of steel..and the ****** still won’t leave the little sube alone.
What they did to fix the sparking, appears to be an older much stronger breaker type connection on the pole.. this means the short is not fixed, the pole is setup to feed it more.


I'll keep my electrified nose open.

would you believe nearly every extreme repair done to this sube could be related to what I saw on the telephone pole...

[boxer3maine]

I wanted to add this here... adding this to "big book of ea82 legends" :lol:

since december 12, (headgasket fail) our average temperature is 29 degrees to today, ...59 days did not see above freezing, and on those days that claimed we did, the average for the day was below freezing. a fake sprite to claim thaw of some kind (it has not thawed at all)

my cars injury should by all means be an outright fail to the junk pile...and it isn't. the chemistry in antifreeze goes crazy at 32, I had it all through the engine...to vacate said chemistry...needs above 32. Have not had it, 59 of sixty something days..and kept driving anyway.
I am not easily amused. this was amusing.

http://i227.photobucket.com/albums/dd255/soob87/histGraphAll.gif

I still ponder an unknown element, created by an engine.

engine stats so far...
after the viscosity refusal, I had a battle on my hands. It would be easy to have let the engine go.. but not this one. no way.

1 bottle engine flush by gunk
1 bottle marvel
1 bottle castine honey
10 gallons of oil
4 flushes

it is accepting viscosity now, reliefs still open, oil pump resorted to its seam to get rid of antifreeze carbons..and funny enough, it is very quiet. (winning channels back took about 40 days)

inspected oil filter 8 times, engine is some kind of crazy clean now. No bearing material at all...I still wonder what cryogenics did to the alloys anyway.

the result should be one smoky day in the 40s, the real 40s..no sprites in the sunshine. This is literally a means to an end to every other engine I have ever run...

the crazy trochoid oil pump gave it a good fight...and still winning. It may be the only engine in our pansy engine history to remember as "tough".. and mean it. (no other engine has a large pump, even if they claim they do)

[boxer3maine]

6pm.. went for the longest ride it has had yet with new gasket. I have decided the convertor is clogged and needs to go. This was the error last time..two years ago (?) and a warm rainy day by chance fixed it. I took it in second gear and 45mph road to as fast as the engine would rev, hoping to blow crud out. I did gain some oil pressure..but there is something killing fires completely around 4800. A video from last year also showed this time of year spewing a black powder and a diesel smelling cloud. At the car’s age, I am just going to bust it out and get it inspected that way. The shell will be there.. just no catalyst.


This was the advice last time.. I am pretty sure it was a member of one of the forums. The chores get piled on and I forget...

the convertor is not actual debris clog, its a physics one. this means holding light to it still has a clean appearing path. Runtime happens, and it is making more carbon monoxide than the actual fire of the engine dictates.

chemists and their baby diaper brains get drenched to no good all the time. This car will be a pleasure with no cat. the flattie pisotns and small chambers dictate some freedom...the real way it was in the days this setup was common. the 1980s was a real *****, as folks with thumpier engines (even today) had trouble getting around emission laws. The 1987 is in its 24th year, and am just going to with catalyst empty.

to narrow down a quick end of gasket to today list is easy as ever remembering what happens to old cats on clean strong fires...I admit my memory is bad. The clock for the convertors actions is so slow it can be confusing..desiring to attack everything but the convertor was something I remember.

[bratman18]

If you need any exhaust pieces I have a full system for your car, including a brand new y pipe, or a used one

[boxer3maine]

If you need any exhaust pieces I have a full system for your car, including a brand new y pipe, or a used one

hey thanks.
a new one sounds tempting.. the cat helps in cold weather. but then again.. this locale has not been nice to "their" cat..

I made alot of changes, being it is my own exhaust already, mig welded.. I'll just hollow it. I thought this year could do equal pipes.. but am 1 year too early. May do it anyway. The cars chassis is beyond the year limits..this means engine could be many things to inspectors.

I am just going to go as regular car incognito. Done that with everything I have owned that got a little more power...never had any problems, in maine anyway.:)

[98Wagoon]

get rid of the damn converter! after 24 years its time for the old sube to breathe freely! well.. relieve itself freely, I suppose.. besides.. it will give it a nice addition to the exhaust note..

[boxer3maine]

get rid of the damn converter! after 24 years its time for the old sube to breathe freely! well.. relieve itself freely, I suppose.. besides.. it will give it a nice addition to the exhaust note..

no doubt.

my loyale/dl loved the cat..this one has been a nut since I got it..

my avatar is a tell all...almost. Still doesn't show tiny combustion chambers. I would not be surprised to find them in the low 40s cc.
:eek:

[boxer3maine]

going to garage again...:unamused:

need to take front covers off, and resetting timing belts to a more gentle tension.

I got it where I want it, the oil pump got too big... this is more than 4 times I have done this to an ea82...can't tell until runtime of a few days with new belt, and of course, above freezing.

the conclusion derived from above 35F today (a real above freezing) ..the engine internals are so clean it smells sweet. The test is with no pcv for a few minutes, let the heat soak top of block internally, baffles in the pan.. anything weird comes out as not foriendly. This one is lterally sweet smelling and quiet.

if pump shaft is beyond my own version of good, I have a spare to replace.

yesterdays ride blew out two smoky quarts, also clean.. it is time to go back to gentle...as gentle as that little thumper can never quite be.

[boxer3maine]

winter blues...decided to blast the heck out of a spare oil pump. there is only one left at rockauto and it is 110 bucks after discount..:unamused:

this is the tiny overpriced culprit:

http://i227.photobucket.com/albums/dd255/soob87/old%20subaru/oilpump003web.jpg

baked it 4 years ago, from spare engine, quick brushing with paint wheel remover. been sitting ever since.

today was chlorine bleach, ajax dish soap, palmolive, soap scum remover, lysol 4 in 1 kitchen, 4 in 1 bathroom, citric based degreaser, sitting in a sealed coffee jug in hot water...30 minutes.

I then watched it dry in minutes, powdery remains of a 16 year long life and 167k miles already...before sitting it for 4 years.

assuming this not enough, I dremeled it, a tiny grinder to get into nooks and inspect, make rough surface... then baked it at 450 degrees for 1 hour and 15 minutes. Magic. The bone dry pump simply blew the rest off as powders.

above is coat of rustoleum primer. The oil pump, like the water pump, will never see 300F, not even close. the plastic trait of rustoleum happens in the 200s... right where the subaru puts it. My next layer is cheap old rustoleum gloss black, let dry for 25min- hour, then fan bake it at lowest temp in little convection oven...another 30 minutes. Then let it stink to high heaven for 48-72 hours.

the bone drying steps is key, not only for strong paint hold.. but paint can reveal the pumps past and future. I found this one loved it on top right corner..sucked paint right in very fast. The rest of pump is solid.

the purpose is to hope to gain the super tension I go to on non-stretch timing belts to maintain a very tight ea cam in slight advance mode... as of now, subaru has been a bit dainty in how much the pump can take a tight tension. This should help, much like it helped the new water pump.

[boxer3maine]

http://i227.photobucket.com/albums/dd255/soob87/old%20subaru/oilpump014web.jpg

about as far as I go with it. 12 hours will get a hot bake, 250-300.

[boxer3maine]

wikipedia article is thorough. I have trouble with any castings local.. the sube does alright. deciphering mysteries of bizarre events over the years, especially winter/fall is written in several places throughout the article (http://en.wikipedia.org/wiki/Aluminium) on aluminum.


One important structural limitation of aluminium alloys is their fatigue (http://www.newenglandsubarus.com/wiki/Fatigue_(material)) strength. Unlike steels, aluminium alloys have no well-defined fatigue limit (http://www.newenglandsubarus.com/wiki/Fatigue_limit), meaning that fatigue failure eventually occurs, under even very small cyclic loadings. This implies that engineers must assess these loads and design for a fixed life (http://www.newenglandsubarus.com/wiki/Fatigue_(material)#Design_against_fatigue) rather than an infinite life.



I guess by my own nature of 14 years in new england with one.. I learned how to anneal into a harder engine, and my desire for copper HG simply would create an even harder alloy... found that funny in away, no books and still wandered into making it tougher the hillbilly way.

I do disagree with oxides acting as a protectant by aluminums own nature.. this may be a market based article.. so only long term owners will know that is not the truth. paint is good in other words...I'd love to electrolytically coat an engine in copper as a liquid, on an annealed old case... that would be interesting.

[boxer3maine]

I guess I killed the pump this time.. or did I? I'll give it a day. With just an exhaust leak, this engine is lively enough to get me thinking of anyone around it. There is even high compression rumbles. Can't wait for this silly error to get out of the way and be gone. The spare pump is ready to go, baked it until oxide grey showed up on the rustoleum...this is the magic part. It stays hot for hours afterwards...never to be bothered again.


loosened tension on the timing belt, acted like a switch for a little while during warm up..up down up down, quick little stabs teasing the hell out of me.The gauge revealed it trying..trying…then back to zero. I remember this the last time. Identical routine..except the pump is even more worn. I will be using my rustoleum baked hack job to replace it. that pump came off a lesser powered, lower compression engine, a 2wd..this did wonders for very high mileage without needing anything. I could be lucky, and it is a replacement pump from that engine as well…who knows. I just know it worked dry as a bone. The engine it came from had no leaks in the front, at 167k miles.
pump is ready to go, the paint took to this like the water pump…amazing result. I do not know what to call that result..paint is gonna stay there for the duration..whatever it is.
I would giggle yet again, if after releasing the tension on the new belt…if it deflated the aluminum back into shape, overnight, and went right back to normal. this would be strike two for this one…would not want to try it again.


the ol' play doh sube has healed more than once by itself. The return of the pump makes a click noise from an unknown source, and engine gets even louder and prouder. :)

as predicted, the old pump would not take a rock belt (non stretch) and I not only forgot this prediction from the last time I went through this spell..I guess I ignored it completely. it still yet may come back..but not likely.

EDIT: I am counting on it as a goner. Purchased the tiny seal behind sprocket for 5 bucks and going with it.I may yet have another bizarre non-revised item, the original 1987 oil pump does not have this drilled passage way I found from my loyale pump.. (will get photo) at least that I have seen or remember seeing. The recycle mode when relief is reliefing should not be spewing all over the ground. A revision may explain why the loyale pump was bone dry with high miles. nearly 48 hours after the paint, it is in a deionization stage of some kind.. even after all the cleaning, there is old oil smell, and of course the infamous suby frying pan. looking forward to this install..4 years ago I put in new seals, and remembered some oddities. A broken bolt head was one of them...the current pump and relief mode has a serious error..into the low 100s psi. Coincides with another 1987 subaru i ran...

[boxer3maine]

I was rummaging through the cupboard to find some leftover base coat.. expensaive stuff. $110 a quart, one year subaru code. Iridescent, urethane based, comes with its own catalyst...that is usually reserved for two part urethane.

http://i227.photobucket.com/albums/dd255/soob87/old%20subaru/oilpump013web.jpg

why not use some...the thought of an extra hardener and apaint that has baking instructions sounded alright to me, it is the brown you see on the pump. baked at under 200, 20 minutes. This makes it sing like a bell...urethane can do that for you.

The pump on the car now, may be an outright catastrophe...24 years it should be expected...a japanese part in maine. It is comically mythical already pondering actual longevity in the physics beatings of the north. Will post details after it is removed. there is an oblong howl as of this point, pumping a steady stream out onto the ground. :unamused:

[boxer3maine]

did some reading on tempering steel, 500F was an option..then slow cool. Look at the colors that emerge to determine if bad or good. This one is simply oiled. (of course). I opted to do this after realizing oil at the boiling point warped the gerotor and shaft. that is pathetic..what kinda steel warps to 220F?
:dunno:

http://i227.photobucket.com/albums/dd255/soob87/old%20subaru/gertor004web.jpg

slow cool standing on end, flat surface..now just going to clean. This did catch on fire even after cleaning...this tells me the permeability of the shafts in the first place, is not very hard at all. I took it to 500F, broil setting up close to element..it only took 20 minutes. (The cooldown was much slower..this made my temper attempting day). The shiny appearance of oem is a hoax. Between the housing singing like a bell to a finger tap, and this process...I am hoping for more than the best. This should go back to shining after clean again.

[boxer3maine]

Still not installed..could be tomorrow. Got the seal today, filled in around spring of seal with the tough black silicone..not that the seal needs anything special (I have never found one leaking, even after broken - sucker side of pump?)

http://i227.photobucket.com/albums/dd255/soob87/old%20subaru/pumpsealed001web.jpg

the drama today, delaying install..was getting that darn plug out for the oil gauge. subaru really installed it with some kind of locktite. Just yesterday, before I could even begin to get discouraged.. I remembered this video (http://www.youtube.com/watch?v=ebQdfqAmyt4)by fiatnutz..and went to work. Two hours, 3 drill bits, a dremel, a very large screwdriver as an easy out, visegripped for a handle..I stood on the pump with all my weight, and groaned the first turn to success...after it twisted my largest screwdriver (over 1 foot long, the flat head is half inch wide..) :unamused:
Relieving the sidewall of treads by going all the way through is a tip not to forget.This one even came out as a 18 year old oem part.:)

and the pump on the car is not even bad. The 1987 I run came with aluminum bolts on the short side of the pump. I found my loyale bolts and realized they are steel hardened, goldish color. So..another spare pump it is I get to experiment (http://www.youtube.com/watch?v=COasmrnxbqg)with. I am expecting a bolt head to pop off like a dandelions when I go to remove...looking forward to getting this done.

[98Wagoon]

cant wait to see pics of the pump install. too bad the weather has gone back to being. well.. weather.. and isnt holding out for the fake spring days we had last week.

[boxer3maine]

cant wait to see pics of the pump install. too bad the weather has gone back to being. well.. weather.. and isnt holding out for the fake spring days we had last week.

we didn't even warm up enough to deglacier. I ought to get a photo.. the car self levelled on its plateau of ice...again. I live in downtown bangor maine,they get the bigger machines going to keep after this stuff. I hope to be moving on, I am physically disabled in the worst spots on planet earth to stay content.
My memory and past events with the same car is terrible. 4 years ago, I resealed the pump because it went crazy over engine cleaner. Lo and behold, this is my third time doing the same thing, same car.Completely focused specifically on the oil pump..something is in it, and it is metallurgically deep. I won't consider the alloy done, as badly infected as it is... the fan bake at 450F for 1.5 hours gets it all.
the tempering is a work of art I won't reveal, as it is a secret boxer3maine recipe. :)

meanwhile, I go short trips.

[boxer3maine]

newer pump installed, seemed silly after seeing the mess behind timing cover to do such anice painting job..but it isnot for the paint that I painted, it is for other reasons.
http://i227.photobucket.com/albums/dd255/soob87/old%20subaru/oldpump008web.jpg

this is the old pump. It is destroyed. I hope photo does it justice. The whoel thing is dumpster bound.. casing gouges and shaft ground. Funny enough, it was not leaking at all.. I found the original front main seal has a crack, also in photo (whats left of it) very brittle. "NOK" suby original...broke like plastic/glass. The new pump really got it to leak violently within seconds..

I await the new seal. I am counting on a lower reading on the gauge than the original GL pump.. if someone could enlighten me to the details as why...that would be a great mystery resolved. When reliefs relief on the loyale generation pump, there is no drama...the drawback is the pressure is always lower, yet getting way more oil. (It should find some other seals that may need attention after this install). I ponder some connected channel internal to the pump allowing recycle paths instead of the lunacy of a dead end pump.

I don't know how they did it, but they did.

still not done yet, getting there...

and the car is in a garage all by its lonesome until finished. The most spoiled rotten it has ever been.:)

[bratman18]

Do you have the mickey mouse gasket? Those can be hard to get sometimes

[boxer3maine]

Do you have the mickey mouse gasket? Those can be hard to get sometimes

yep, sure do, and the newer o-ring (hightemp orange)...
installed very well. I did find a delicate operation with silicone is a big helper (black, permatex). the only new seal is the front o-ring,behind sprocket, reused the others, about 4 years old now, pliable and stretchy, puffed back out to non-flat. :)

the front main seal is mind boggling to ponder...in its 24 year existence, in that engine, in this location, it has seen over 105F ambient, to minus 31..and all the sprites inbetween. finally killed it at 131,700 miles. to think the aftermarket is even smarter....
:up:

[98Wagoon]

my cam seals are leaving after 13 years, the front main nearly lasting 24 is something to behold. although, I have another 25k miles and I bought it from a teenager that thought it was a rally car :unamused:

glad the swap went relatively well. perhaps you'll have it buttoned up tomorrow and you can see just how content the ea will be with real oiling

[boxer3maine]

my cam seals are leaving after 13 years, the front main nearly lasting 24 is something to behold. although, I have another 25k miles and I bought it from a teenager that thought it was a rally car :unamused:

glad the swap went relatively well. perhaps you'll have it buttoned up tomorrow and you can see just how content the ea will be with real oiling

it will be more than a day, but thats ok. parts delivery is decent..
13 on a newer sube should be nothing, unless a chemical interfered (freon is possible)

I am guessing some heavy nitrogen type stuff, odors of sulfur (rotten milk), and the crazy car wash odor (I'd love to sue that place) from two years ago is gonna escape before oil wins. the front main seal is a tell all about the distillery barrel and what is inside.:lol:

I did second guess a spin on the main bearings, someone told me an ea could do that, in the middle. This particular engine has an up down wear, not side to side... no spinning mains for this one. This leaves increased pressure to an altitude due to heavy gasses...convertor bunged for a short time as well, but that is long since cleared out.Exact same story relived.. the first time was nerve racking...it seemed demise imminent, and it really is not.

the blessing this time is the 45 micron filter.. less than 1 second after draining whole thing...quiet as a mouse at the heads. Whatever is next, I got spares.

[boxer3maine]

http://i227.photobucket.com/albums/dd255/soob87/old%20subaru/oldseal001web.jpg


This is yet another mystery. subaru had two seals for the font main..one is smaller. I don’t have a clue where the small one fits..but oh, they made one..and it’s the first dufus a parts store brings to the front for sale. I just ordered from Napa, and verified measurements, it is machinist inkling around 2 5/16ths inch american outside diameter. Not a small seal indeed. It explains 24 years for an original…and napa has it for 4 dollars local. Rockauto was not beneficial this time. Another day…


an interesting pursuit would be to see exactly which ea82 the smaller seal fits.. I have never seen one, not even on my gentle little cammed DL engine...and yet it is somehow not a mistake in parts stores inventory.

this seal also fits one year of impreza... and it is beyond guessing it is a long lasting impreza, if it has the large seal..

[boxer3maine]

http://i227.photobucket.com/albums/dd255/soob87/old%20subaru/sealseat002web.jpg

a bit like my home made breaker bar..I was informed these needed to be seated with a thud on the surface of backside, but not the edge...the little seals in same design take well with a socket. I use nothing on the oil pumps version, but it is smart to give it a good thump as stated. I now remember why I saved this new pipe I cut with doubled up welded end cut flat. This will get it first try. Just enough room for a quick smack by a short handled 1.5 pound mallot. this makes the inner edge of seal seat into the hole it is sitting in.

if the seal does not spin in the first ten seconds..it should stay there for another 764,467,190 seconds, or 8864 days.
:up:

[98Wagoon]

so is the seal getting seated tomorrow? thats quite the "tool" you have there :lol: it looks like its a 12" section of pipe from the picture, but the pen and lighter put it into perspective..

[boxer3maine]

so is the seal getting seated tomorrow? thats quite the "tool" you have there :lol: it looks like its a 12" section of pipe from the picture, but the pen and lighter put it into perspective..

its a leftover mistake I made with exhaust system... I am not sure what lead me to the front main seal, and keeping it for that...by first thoughts on what to do wtih it. Subaru probably has an expensive extinct tool for this.. I never check anymore. like the wrist pin clip/pin remover.. I'll end up making one.

too many years of suby ea82 I guess.

the seal could be tomorrow, but I am leaching rides to get this done as of now.. may not be tomorrow. I get nervous even with a bus route right outside, without a vehicle there. :unamused:

[98Wagoon]

Ive always hated having to rely on people for rides. its always been a sensitive spot. hopefully it gets back up soon. then you can move onto whatever mystery comes up next. because if Ive learned anything, theres always a new one to figure out with these things :lol:

[boxer3maine]

Ive always hated having to rely on people for rides. its always been a sensitive spot. hopefully it gets back up soon. then you can move onto whatever mystery comes up next. because if Ive learned anything, theres always a new one to figure out with these things :lol:

hopefully no more mystery..
I knew stepping up power would be like a dog chasing its own tail for awhile. All my engines did this..

just more lessons specific to the boxer.. oxides and letting go of them and other things (due to weak fire too long/lack of big air) is the weirdest of it.
petrification is expected. some spots I like it, the valve covers have very old hard gaskets, no doubt airproof to say the least.

the only real drama next is thoughts of the middle main bearing...that would suck badly. Some real heat gods spring time version would be miraculous right now.

[98Wagoon]

that reminds me. whats bringing on the concerns as of late with the bearing? from the oil pressure/pump being wonky lately? has the engine made any weird noises.. well.. weirder noises that usual :lol:. even perhaps a small knock like a midget hitting the crank with a little hammer? thats how my brothers car sounded when he spun a bearing. sounded like a light tapping, turned into quite a loud tap..

[boxer3maine]

that reminds me. whats bringing on the concerns as of late with the bearing? from the oil pressure/pump being wonky lately? has the engine made any weird noises.. well.. weirder noises that usual :lol:. even perhaps a small knock like a midget hitting the crank with a little hammer? thats how my brothers car sounded when he spun a bearing. sounded like a light tapping, turned into quite a loud tap..

no strange noise. it is why I have my hopes up. the 3 main should be quite a thud if it gets sloppy..so hanging on to good hopes.

the weather phenomona is really at the top of the list. There is cold, like minnesota brags about with its hot earth under its feet, and then there is maine..for months on end with no tv coverage.

the average mean temperature from dec 12 to today is 20 degrees even. The average high total is below freezing at 29F. :eek:
when february hits 0 or below it is a goddamn cold version after a winter like this. That is why I am up and here at 218 am. :lol:

getting to the point.. the new pump etc, stuff I have done has to be crazy strong to do something new. I am not all that disappointed.. I have had much worse. As it is, I will be slapping that seal in maybe a 40 degree garage...and it will take it. It is tougher than I could even let on about.

[boxer3maine]

headed back to normal.


this process of headgasket fail, a tortured engine ride home on 2 cyls, to today.. is over 70 days. Got front main seal in. Very strong one, and has two differences than oem. one is diameter, the other is no bevel on the edge..and seems a half mil wider..no matter how I look at it, it is better. The tip from the internet to hit the backside evenly with a proper size pipe or socket worked awesome.. It banged into its flush mount, and went no farther… even though there is room to do so. This simply means the seal magicly found the past one, and got very tight suddenly to a perfect spot. Knowing how those work is a decent lesson in these boring chores..I never knew what kept them that tight for many years, just hovering in a hole pressed in gently. The hammer and pipe does it all. Now the recall of memory is that the base/casings is gaining a new environment. pressure is still low, no racing high romps yeat.. but getting there. I also fixed up the covers a little bit, especially at the top, for engine washes and keeping cruds out. So back to no leaks and internals sounding very content. Painted oil and water pumps is a decibal or two of physics taken away as well.




a loud ride home, backed into my spot, bone dry in the clean snow underneath. A win for today. A "convertorsectome" has been a thought in the back of my mind for several years. It may be able to do that legally, given the year and repeated mishaps.(it does not get along with the convertor that is in it). Wobbly warped tires and a loud exhaust, dirt from one end to the other. I wanted to fix 24 years to younger... not reel in the appearance of it...patience patience patience. :unamused:

some details of gasket, it may healp another sube gong beyond even a factory coil )the ea82 as factory is like a house of cards falling down..after you add something better)

summarizing the entire front of the engine has been removed and replaced since november, means aluminum is susceptible, if heat is generating, or maybe the steel parts spinning.. this needs more than oem. I do not know what triggered it...but man o man it did not stop until it was done.

I used nothing oem replacing the water pump, oil pump is not a 1987, not that one would find the mistake riddled casting ever again as new (bad luck if you do, like the master cylinder) .The front main seal was found at Napa, a bit heftier than oe, this may be related to an aviator engine builders find, or whatver the reason.. i am glad it was stronger. Napa is good about integrity requaests, if it means saying goodbye to something oem.

As cylinder pressures increase, everything needs to work harder. A pinhole in the front main can equal disaster. The sube pages prior to this seem bad, but it is the opposite... liveliest low down and upper sounds in one boxer I have ever heard.

c/n: front main is at napa, ea82. No nos or nok or whatever it was original, (it is still an option of course).

[boxer3maine]

with 14 suby years behind me, the craziest attacks on the car have been pollutions that do not leave easily. for some it could be a smoke stack, even a railroad.. for me its the bangorian endothermic earth defying logic like mt. washington...right into May sometimes. this means radons, old horse craps with ammonium nitrates or many many other realistic reasons. Imagine a city that had to avoid water to stay safe. :unamused:

the boxer does not let go of some things easily, radon is one of them..ever notice the top center of the block below intake is taller than the pcv pipings top exit? that is one of the reasons. I found unintentionally a certain sand my dad uses on icy walkways is gentler than calcium chloride, absorbs lke cat litter, and leaves people alone. My ea82 loves this stuff sitting below it...even draws out odors of a light bulb it blew years ago (also inert gas)..

thinking the hood scoops (wrx/sti) and side vents (rs) on the subes looked childish.. it does indeed conquer a physic, I do not giggle at such sights anymore.

I may grab a cheap hardly noticable low profile ebay one and modify it...

prevention keeps a car going...I guess it may look extreme by the time facts are deciphered after all.

[boxer3maine]

the sube got a 4 wire molex connector, like pata hard drives get in a pc at the fan switch and fan on radiator. This means unplug it simply, when tipping radiator out. subarus fan wires do not match the wires coming from the car. Remembered the order of them and spliced it in to the plug. An odd thing they did was split off wires then gave them their own connection. the split is primitive, hanging out in the open, crimped by the same thing I found under the dash grpuping a bunch of grounds together. Cheap as hell..but worked for them apparently. Also covered those with the heatshrink tubing. 600v ten million degrees or whatver that is so special is applied. Heatshrunk connections with a very hard drying heat shrink tubing, have not had this version yet.. good spot for it. Warmer weather gets some electrical tape and wire tire to tidy it up further. the hunch that static pressure guides strong grounds from weaker is correct. Car started right up..no start and stall, and wait a second. Convertor is still in a physics clean, rotten eggs, exactly stereotypical of symptoms read about. They even make a cleaner specifically for this, may try it. will just take it easy. Like clearing a basement of radon.. it is never a fast fix.


I cannot even believe how dependent it gets on that area of car with electrical. physics. even the thermostat can go weird...
I did exact distances in splicing, I learned the split is a set distance from the static switch on the radiator, to mimick it, the splices lengthening all have to be the same. true or not, I humored it.

engine is in a giving mode, this is good...just a stinker. interneally is the craiziest clean I have ever done for one of these engines. Back to exactly subaru, just waiting out the monsters eviction.

[1982gl4]

Awesome thread! Glad I'm not the only one here fixing up rusty old gens :e Looking good too I love the pugs!

[boxer3maine]

Awesome thread! Glad I'm not the only one here fixing up rusty old gens :e Looking good too I love the pugs!

I was very lucky to gather 8 of them.

Glad to see another ea here...I wonder if an original will still be running 2 generations later...I have never owned the EJ, the fb still is not floating my boat. kinda seriously unfunny in a way. :lol:

[1982gl4]

I was very lucky to gather 8 of them.

Glad to see another ea here...I wonder if an original will still be running 2 generations later...I have never owned the EJ, the fb still is not floating my boat. kinda seriously unfunny in a way.

8????!!! Luck you! I have a set of 15 steelies, but no lug nuts :unamused: I have a few ea cars but mine are the EA81, not the EA82, although I have had a few, one I used to plow with, and the other was used for off road until I jumped it and ruined the engine by landing on the oil pan. My Brat's getting the EJ now. I plan on keeping both my wagons EA though. I love those old motors. one is 100% original including the california emissions (what a nightmare that is) and my 82 wagon as a weber which has been awesome!

[boxer3maine]

8????!!! Luck you! I have a set of 15 steelies, but no lug nuts :unamused: I have a few ea cars but mine are the EA81, not the EA82, although I have had a few, one I used to plow with, and the other was used for off road until I jumped it and ruined the engine by landing on the oil pan. My Brat's getting the EJ now. I plan on keeping both my wagons EA though. I love those old motors. one is 100% original including the california emissions (what a nightmare that is) and my 82 wagon as a weber which has been awesome!


I'd love to ea81 an ea82 car. :lol:

I have had only one california, and they disconnected most of it at the dealer (it is insane here). I furthered the route back to sane as written here.

I do like the cats, as long as I don't have platinum plugs (no air bypass does crazy interaction on carb engine). I go for a magnaflow someday.. the early legacy and ea shared one...a little more flow. Even find them on ebay less than 100...

I would not attempt these cars in california. they not only disrespect an engine design (porsche has to fight for their boxer too) they don't care what the car is or result in long term. Real shame.. the idiots seemed to have shaped america. Maine stands its ground.

[boxer3maine]

http://i227.photobucket.com/albums/dd255/soob87/old%20subaru/oldpump00web1.jpg

This is the old pump. It seems the aluminum is not hard enough by any means, but that is not all that ails it.I knew the loyale pump was different, it pumps more, on a lower reading.. the groove you see in the shaft hole comes way too close to the seal seat. This is only one of the reason the pump reads high pressure and does not move as much. This caused a recycle inside the pump, like a dig chasing its own tail. the other difference I found was the pressure regulator spring and cup hole is longer, hence making a gentler spring. I assume they had to do this, as the groove for recycle is much shallower, forcing oil to move into correct paths. of course, it is still not perfect, the loyale used to cave in filters once and a great winter while. I can expect this to happen, but no worries on the billet filter and 45 micron mesh screen filter... I can fix it myself, or just buy another screen filter cheap enough.

[98Wagoon]

now that the new pump and seal are on do you think the filter is going to get crudded up with mystery gunk again with things working properly finally?

[boxer3maine]

now that the new pump and seal are on do you think the filter is going to get crudded up with mystery gunk again with things working properly finally?

no, that stage of cleaning up is long gone done. The old pump actually gathers it even faster, but does not go to filter completely..hence the self destruct.

the new pump has the advantage of taking even heavier elements, on slower thick oil...I look forward to next check. I am already guessing it is simply oxides smelling neutral.

the old pump really pumped it warm, and really pumped it cold...but that is not healthy as it can be. I had to use synthetic for example, now I can throw anything in.

A favorite combo is very cheap carquest oil by the gallon and a quart rislone..
I did not attempt these things on the weird pump. It is a relief (pun) in a way to not blame too tight in the internals, it was the pump all along.

long term should be snappy starts, no wait for idle to creep up to actual rpm. (I am noticing that change right now)
if old one was not grooved, I see a way to fix it easily, but it is too late.

[98Wagoon]

good luck! have you ever looked into royal purple oil? its kind of expensive, though. it lasts longer than regular synthetics and can give a noticeable difference in revs. a lot of people dislike it because they think its too "thin". I ran it in two other cars and they've enjoyed every minute of it..

[boxer3maine]

good luck! have you ever looked into royal purple oil? its kind of expensive, though. it lasts longer than regular synthetics and can give a noticeable difference in revs. a lot of people dislike it because they think its too "thin". I ran it in two other cars and they've enjoyed every minute of it..

the ea is the sube that takes 10w30 and even thicker, by subarus own book. I do like the thought of dynamical, have tried 5w50 synthetic (bmw recommends it in their own engine) and may go back to that. For now, I want it to gather things, be wasteful, burn a little..get some carbons going (aluminum has to have the carbons). the engine is literally too clean to stop in time as of right now. Need some warm sloppy muggy days.:lol:

this does happen:

http://i227.photobucket.com/albums/dd255/soob87/old%20subaru/lightning1.jpg
:unamused:

[boxer3maine]

this should lead to a pause of silence...finally.
the finale for the crazy gauge reading is a pile of alkalids, I finally remembered the last finale to this uber rare anyhting-but-a-person-planting-a-chemical event. It is so perfectly wrong and nexplainable due to the rarity.. I second guess the humanity around me.

pretends there is no oil with low reading. new pumps, no leaks... pessimist theory be done..it has got more oil than ever, after a pump that never fails is only making its job even more gentle than the original installed. With all oil plugs free to do whatever I want on the oil pump, I joke of putting a valve and hose sticking out of the pressure side, after it goes by filter.. and let the chemistry go..or like most in this situation, wait until oil is settled and cold, let it out. The cleaners really found something again. How it creates it on its own is well.. not all that possible. I do not know what causes this strange fluid, and it can happen to cast iron or aluminum. it goes crazy on statics, gauges and then some. Some blame a bad jug of oil..it is that rare with no explanation. lets go when is cold..

four tires due to be mine, but that is a week away. yokohama avid, came oem on an outback,why not try them. the old sube is quite the tire shredder, just being what it is now (Hakkas never again). maybe it does not like directional tread..or something. the original dramatic welding changed frequencies in ways that blew house bulbs a .25 mile away :lol:...that is all calmed now. (Tires went berzerk after that).

and the snow, it is not exciting anymore. please stop snowing.:unamused:

[boxer3maine]

I found this from march 9 2010


Yesterday, warm sun. Ride in the sube to the walking spot. Grotesque odor of strange fuel. I forgot about the oil drain jug I have in a bag in the back having some gas in it. This was when the tank went through a crazy spell after filling it, last november. no leaks to find…but it came out the top. Strange chemistry. It seems I have captured some of it inside the oil jug. I wonder if I can donate it to science.. I must run outside right now and get it out of the car, while thinking of it. 4 months later, just as strangely potent as the day it climbed out of the tank with no leaks…WTF is it?


november 2009 to november mishap, one year apart.. I am guessing I pumped in something mildly radioactive. :unamused:

no explanation needs one..:)

will keep digging..searching for perfectly clock like relations...

edit:

I did conclude every weird event has been exit only. once it happens, that is the end of it, no return. the list of exorcising the sube:

From very first physical teardown and removing something strange from the driver side rocker panel 2006 (which attacked its own metal twice more after welding),
to the carbon canister old school (they literally turned niclear in the old cars), which was swapped into modern day version .Very effective of course- these have no known errors. (am loving that function right now)
thermal switch that opened fuel vent recirc was broke for more than a year before finding it. gas tank did not exit strange vapors properly.
baked urethane in engine bay (drove the grounds crazy- recorded lightning strike)
platinum plugs interacted with platinum convertor at #3 cylinder.. changing to iridiums? I blew a headgasket a month later..and all four plug holes needed sleeves. (another "let go of physics" event)
then the convertor melted its own piping (young exhaust)
the oil pump took on grooves like a wound up coil as well..a small tablespoon full of separate conductive non-burnable fluid remained.
resonant freqauency echo'd noises after the floor beams welded (changed car entirely). I have done this with rockers and front engine arms, and back end as well. funny enough, the resonant reverb stuff leaves the wheel wells/arches alone (they do most work- bewildering)
this ended up a hadron collider nikola tesla einstein stumping battle...the miles do not dictate madness, it is time only.

it is so close to atomics, the giggling about it stops. There is 50 year old trucks with half amillion miles having an easier time restoring, than this subaru. The culprit? emissions emission emissions. EGR, constipated exhaust on high compression, low volted coil, passive water pump...california emission insanity is gonna meet their match. I declare this car a cursed example.

[boxer3maine]

I play around with vids, hardly serious.. not cutting edge, clips getting old..

here is the lightning hit... I guess my sube likes steel bridges... or is that god likes subes that like steel bridges...
:dunno:

http://www.youtube.com/watch?v=rvLQz6b3Cug
the mpeg2 slowed down or frame captured creates errors, mpeg2 does not do still shots. So if you see something out of place, that is why.

ya know, the more I try to decipher my november to today, everything on the front of the engine needed replacing, or fixing..headgasket outright failed.. I'll just shut up and let the vid explain without words. The clock of strange events can be induced by lightning...I theorize a finale to calm near august again... a year after, maybe less. A realistic thought is seeing the grooves on the old oil pump recently, add alkalids or conductives in the oil..and what do you make?

there is alot of things to think about when it is unexplainable. I even watched the steel spark plug sleeves get wrapped by the morphing heads over a period of days..as if aluminum was a playful liquid...yet never leaking a compression.

I made some boxium, a new element unknown to man.

today cleaning snow off car is a metallic battery type odor..and it is exiting. The wet heavy snow is good. I can't do anymore, it is up to nature.

[98Wagoon]

holy hell. thats actually a really cool shot. at first I thought it was just the reflection in the windshield but when its slowed down you can see that it was arcing from the wiper.

lightning does some interesting things. I remember when I lived next door to my aunt in haverhill, ma. there was a particularly bad storm going on. she was sitting in her living room, lightning hit in front of the house and a portion traveled through the living room and exploded the crystal lamp next to the couch. the lamp wasnt on or plugged in :iam: there was no power loss, no hit to the house.. but from 30-40 feet away, a lamp was destroyed by the hit.

[boxer3maine]

holy hell. thats actually a really cool shot. at first I thought it was just the reflection in the windshield but when its slowed down you can see that it was arcing from the wiper.

lightning does some interesting things. I remember when I lived next door to my aunt in haverhill, ma. there was a particularly bad storm going on. she was sitting in her living room, lightning hit in front of the house and a portion traveled through the living room and exploded the crystal lamp next to the couch. the lamp wasnt on or plugged in :iam: there was no power loss, no hit to the house.. but from 30-40 feet away, a lamp was destroyed by the hit.

picks and chooses our mistakes no doubt.

the subes paint has some garnet or something in it.. as I do remember realizing it was hit at least once, that was october 2006. I guessed as things get tighter, resonant frequency change...some things were going to have to leave one way or another.

lightning is one way no doubt. :lol:

a month prior to hit, I knew I got a sweet spot while welding.. I canlt describe it realistically, but that the weld did not stop "thieving". Strong "invisible" indicator out loud...but that is just another factor to add to the attraction.

my doors stopped zapping my hands 2 years ago with static.. I broke a routine starting back then, with thick urethane. I knew without a doubt, the engine and wheels is the last true bridge to air..and lo and behold, the unpainted wiper arms is another one.

a freaky rare thing...I pushed an invisible around, not many need to think of it.

I like that thread here with the aluminum mesh in the grille. I may do some of that and ground it to chassis...

[98Wagoon]

Id like to see a gl with a big mesh mouth. gulping in all the air instead of the little plastic hatchwork getting in the way..

[boxer3maine]

Id like to see a gl with a big mesh mouth. gulping in all the air instead of the little plastic hatchwork getting in the way..

I have been pondering that for years.

the piece in it now is going on 400k, and 3 subes..kept its native white for the first twenty. the badge melted at around 15...its been 9 more years beyond that. crazy plastic (abs)

I simply remember old pickups with the metal grilles...it added some years to the whole darn thing here. static pressure taking it easy was one of the reasons...more than a 1 row radiator was another. the mesh grille may fake a two row in the static dispersal part of it anyway...

I should just get the two row, it is an 8 to 12 week waiting list however. :unamused:

the subes are constipated, always have been. Today seeing fire out the exhaust ought to be the trigger for them to do something about a silent subject that won't ever stay quiet for long.
they consider it another pollution ya know....the static stuff.

[boxer3maine]

I am getting kinda nervous.. car is headed for an "oil gasm"... oil pretending low pressure, driving around on a cracked pipe, getting snappier all the time, I guess it knows spring is coming. wheels wobbling beyond clown car comical...and big puffs of metallic smelling smoke random.

this is either gonna clean the engine or die..
either way, I am going for 4 more modern tread that came on a subaru for this weekend. will have some steel wheels for the newer subes cheap if all goes well for sale for anyone reading this. (I just need the tires.)Disheartened, the car is not matching the many hours of work as of now. Spare engined, just gonna go ahead with other stuff.

there is a familiar with using the engine additives, and that it does finish off with smoking, and even a clack of rods (which is impressively calm slop given 131k)...right back to quiter than ever. Given the years, I have right to assume a demise may happen.It needs warm weather of the chemists home town who invented the chemical, you see they forget that the world is 66% different then their money making scheme of engine cleansing.

almost over. give it a week or so. that one year it did this crazy routine already, also cleaner related..it waited until april something.. a 60 degree day. (2009?) :unamused: this year has been 81 days and counting. Each sun in towards a 2 minute longer daylight grabs a little more content. It is torture for northerners to go through what I am going through.

heat riser was something I never got to. I believe in hot fires in the first place, no extra heats.. this one just simply needs an extra. wrapping the whole convertor should be a helper. it is a tiny engine after all.

[boxer3maine]

I tightened crank bolt extra, after all the previous repairs recently.. I know what comes back when contentmant happens. It is invisible, I do not much talk about it. 14th season same engine makes me a bit incommunicable about some things. Again resonant frequency is all I can say.

no tires today. This rain is snow from the tire source.. delayed for a couple of days. This rain is most welcome..it has been quite some time. Freakishly so. The real rain. really wet.
strangely good news.. the crank pulley loosened leaving the alt. light on etc. it happened backing into its parking spot. Lucky there. I have done this to all 3 of my subes with this engine. Settling down to a new belt, in this case it is a whole lot of things, oil pump and headgasket included. These things change the crank like aheart attack. Have to wait it out. Taking off fast enough to unlock the 100 ft pound bolt is a deep centered crank shaker for the good. This rain is welcome. Not long to go now.
these warm spells after a cold used to leave a creak in the plastic trims, car rumbling to the warmth. This year it is still as I have never driven a wagon before. Even the seat bottoms keep a strong cushion. the floor beams releases some drama on an 80 degree day, when I welded. The depth of the resonance keeping is put to test by a maine winter. Equinox arriving soon is normally a rumbler in more than one way for the old scoob. This year is quiet as a barn mouse.


when the engine is deep enough to loosen the crank bolt, it is back to centered, torque beelining. (this is very good on the old 3 main)

stay safe in the upcoming ice, my locale is getting a dose of it as well.

[bratman18]

Those Damn EA82 crank pulleys! They all come loose. You have to get them things real tight so they don't loosen back up!!

Side note, I see you're not an admin anymore?! lol

[boxer3maine]

Those Damn EA82 crank pulleys! They all come loose. You have to get them things real tight so they don't loosen back up!!

Side note, I see you're not an admin anymore?! lol

somebody playing tricks.

use me as a decoy, my unhackable pc is tougher than an ej engine. :lol:

on a side note: the pulleys never come loose unless the crank moved toa dial in. if it does it often, good chance crank is bad. ten foot pounds can hold that pulley through anything, if its grounding/lubed/still while working it don't let go. A v8 can do this too, they aren't even center mounted with one bolt on most of them. Forged cranks only.

my 3 needed longterm earthquakes of error. 2 cyl rides home, be it bad belt/ blown headgasket, lopsided rides, off a tooth in timing, and even then, it takes miles and miles of it. dialing back in to precise is what I look for in the bolt loosening. It is not common in this frigid place...and it always takes weeks/months after an event for that dial in to return to center.

see now after tightening.. it will stay there until the next drama, a headgasket/cracked oil pump.. several weeks after fixing. it is the forged crank that delays it. (that is amazing to real motorheads)

it is indeed as close to forever a man made part has become.

speaking of tough pc.. at 33532 hours on a 7200 rpm drive...
it is rounded down to 4,115,290 miles.
each rotation of the four inch platter is 12.56 inches.
as stated. tougher than an ej engine...possibly all engines.