kgj996
10-23-2008, 09:01 PM
I just thought this might shed some light on the subject. There is a lot of info on the subject and a lot of bases to cover, and only so much free time, so it is a work in progress. Feel free to add to or ask Q's along the way.
Water methanol injection is an old trick developed by ww2 airplane engineers to squeeze a lot more power out of aircraft engines safely and economically. The water meth mixture was injected directly into the engine intakes and created a cooler, denser air charge. The water also creates a lot of turbulence inside the combustion chamber, swirling the air/fuel mixture and creating a more efficient burn, increasing fuel economy and allowing the engines to run cooler and safer, and producing more power. The methanol was introduced to the mixture and was found to increase octane of the fuel and allow the engine to run more timing and leaner AFRs witch allowed for more power to be produced safely.
Now how does this affect my car? Well, water/meth injection has been used on cars for a few years now( like 20) and has been found to give the same benefits that the aircraft of ww2 experienced, able to run more boost and timing with leaner AFRs without detonation or knock and with cooler EGTs. All of this equals more power to the wheels, and a lot of it. Some cars can see a gain of 100whp or more depending on the tune. The biggest increases will be found on forced induction cars because you can turn up the boost so much without detonation, but N/A cars can see a big increase of power with added timing and leaned out AFRs.
What kit do I buy?
There are many different kits made buy different companies for different applications, so you have lots of options. The main differences are in the types of pumps, number of failsafes they come with, where they mount in the car, and how they are activated. ( boost switch, maf switch, 2d map progressive)
The two types of pumps used in WI kits are diaphragm type pumps like ShurFlo, that are found in less expensive kits, and magnetic piston pumps, found in kits from hydramist and aquamist.
The diaphragm pumps are cheaper because they have been around for ever and were designed for agriculture rather than the automotive industry, but they still work fine and can pump up to 150 psi and can handle a 50/50 mix of methanol. Most water injection brands use this type of pump. Here is a pic of a Shurflo pump found in the Coolingmist kits.
http://www.coolingmist.com/products/images/Cool150Pumplarge.jpg
The magnetic piston pump is the best of the best in terms of water pumps because they were made just to pump water. Instead of having a mechanical connection to the pumping mechanism, they use a strong magnet to cycle a piston pump without ant moving connecting parts. This makes these pumps super reliable because of the lack of moving parts. These pumps aren't produced and manufactured like the diaphragm pumps, and only a few companies make them, so they are very expensive compared to the diaphragm type. Here is a pic of an aquamist kit with the magnetic type pump.
file:///C:/DOCUME%7E1/OWNER%7E1.YOU/LOCALS%7E1/Temp/moz-screenshot.jpgfile:///C:/DOCUME%7E1/OWNER%7E1.YOU/LOCALS%7E1/Temp/moz-screenshot-1.jpghttp://www.aquamist.co.uk/cp/sys1/sys1s.JPG
The next big difference between kits is the number and type of failsafes they come with. This is usually the biggest concern when buying a kit because if the injection system fails in any way, will the car be safe?
Failsafes range from water level warning lights that light up when the tank is close to empty, to sensors in the water lines and tank that will turn down boost or switch to aux safe maps if they sense any loss of water flow or lack of water in the tank. some kits com with more than one failsafe to try to cover all the bases of failor, but most come with just one. Most failsafes can be bought seperatly from different manufacturers and adapted to any kit. Be sure to do your reaserch before buying a kit and make sure it will not leave you stranded.
Next is deciding between single stage( on/off) or a progressive kit. Single stage kits use simple boost switches that turn the pump on at a preset boost level, or some other means to turn the pump on off. These kits have no flow adjustment besides on and off. If the system is turned on too soon it may bog down the engine without enough rpm or boost to use that amount of alcohol and water being injected. On the other hand, if you only flow at one rate, it might not be the optimum flow for the whole power band.
Progressive systems, or dual stage systems, use a progressive map with sensors that read your maf sensor and/or boost to calculate how much water to inject. They can also run off of RPM, gear, or TPS. The controller adjusts the flow of the pump acording to the map of the controller, similar to a fuel injector. The biggest advantage to a progressive system is that you have a flow of water/alcohol to match your power curve throughout your power band. This type of kit will have the best driveablity and power band compaired to a kit that is either on or off. For the non progressive kits, you need to use the right size spray nozzle for the horse power you plan on making.
One of the last considerations is the location and size of tank you want. You can utilize your existing winshield washer fluid resivoir and use that to hold your meth, but then you are without washer fluid. Other kits have a small 1/2 gallon tank that mounts under the hood and is stealthy, but you loose meth compacity. Depending on how you drive, 1/2 gallong of meth might last for 1/2 tank of gas or less. Another option is a trunk mounted kit. You can use the stock STI intercooler water tank or opt to buy a supplied tank. These kits hold a lot more fluid but are a little harder to install due to running wires and hose from the engine to the trunk.
Here are some pics of different mounting options:
Trunk
http://img.photobucket.com/albums/v300/beavis820/STi_smcinstall12.jpghttp://i92.photobucket.com/albums/l40/djerickd/DSC01367.jpg
Mine
http://i245.photobucket.com/albums/gg45/kgj996/DSC02414.jpg
Under hood:
http://i66.photobucket.com/albums/h246/dibblejr/DSC00408.jpg
http://i66.photobucket.com/albums/h246/dibblejr/DSC00432.jpg
How does the meth affect my tune?
The water methanol injection will allow for you to run more boost and more timing, depending on your mix. a 50/50 mix might be able support up to 2 degrees of timing, around 1/2 point AFR, and 3-5 lbs of boost over a straight pump gas tune. This combination can net a huge increase in wheel hp while maintaining safe egts and without knock.
Where do I get methanol?
Methanol is most commonly found in windshield washer fluid. The blue washer fluid that is good for -20f is a 40/60 mix of meth and water. while it isn't a 50/50 mix, it is still very effective and very cheap. At $1.69/ gallon, it really beats paying for race fuel or fuel additives. Other sources are fuel suppliers and race fuel distributors. They sell 100% meth, but it isn't cheap. Also, some fuel line antifreeze made by HEET is 100% methanol. While it's not practical to buy dosens of 12oz bottles of heet, you can use them to bump up your washer fluid to a 50/50 mix.
Here is a list of some manufacturers that offer kits.
www.aquamist.co.uk (http://www.aquamist.co.uk/)
http://www.snowperformance.net/
www.coolingmist.com (http://www.coolingmist.com/)
www.alcohol-injection.com (http://www.alcohol-injection.com/)
www.enginerunup.com (http://www.enginerunup.com/)
www.fjoracing.com/products/waterinjection (http://www.fjoracing.com/products/waterinjection)
www.smcenterprises.com/subaru.htm (http://www.smcenterprises.com/subaru.htm)
To be continued..... if any one has any input or Q's post them up.
Water methanol injection is an old trick developed by ww2 airplane engineers to squeeze a lot more power out of aircraft engines safely and economically. The water meth mixture was injected directly into the engine intakes and created a cooler, denser air charge. The water also creates a lot of turbulence inside the combustion chamber, swirling the air/fuel mixture and creating a more efficient burn, increasing fuel economy and allowing the engines to run cooler and safer, and producing more power. The methanol was introduced to the mixture and was found to increase octane of the fuel and allow the engine to run more timing and leaner AFRs witch allowed for more power to be produced safely.
Now how does this affect my car? Well, water/meth injection has been used on cars for a few years now( like 20) and has been found to give the same benefits that the aircraft of ww2 experienced, able to run more boost and timing with leaner AFRs without detonation or knock and with cooler EGTs. All of this equals more power to the wheels, and a lot of it. Some cars can see a gain of 100whp or more depending on the tune. The biggest increases will be found on forced induction cars because you can turn up the boost so much without detonation, but N/A cars can see a big increase of power with added timing and leaned out AFRs.
What kit do I buy?
There are many different kits made buy different companies for different applications, so you have lots of options. The main differences are in the types of pumps, number of failsafes they come with, where they mount in the car, and how they are activated. ( boost switch, maf switch, 2d map progressive)
The two types of pumps used in WI kits are diaphragm type pumps like ShurFlo, that are found in less expensive kits, and magnetic piston pumps, found in kits from hydramist and aquamist.
The diaphragm pumps are cheaper because they have been around for ever and were designed for agriculture rather than the automotive industry, but they still work fine and can pump up to 150 psi and can handle a 50/50 mix of methanol. Most water injection brands use this type of pump. Here is a pic of a Shurflo pump found in the Coolingmist kits.
http://www.coolingmist.com/products/images/Cool150Pumplarge.jpg
The magnetic piston pump is the best of the best in terms of water pumps because they were made just to pump water. Instead of having a mechanical connection to the pumping mechanism, they use a strong magnet to cycle a piston pump without ant moving connecting parts. This makes these pumps super reliable because of the lack of moving parts. These pumps aren't produced and manufactured like the diaphragm pumps, and only a few companies make them, so they are very expensive compared to the diaphragm type. Here is a pic of an aquamist kit with the magnetic type pump.
file:///C:/DOCUME%7E1/OWNER%7E1.YOU/LOCALS%7E1/Temp/moz-screenshot.jpgfile:///C:/DOCUME%7E1/OWNER%7E1.YOU/LOCALS%7E1/Temp/moz-screenshot-1.jpghttp://www.aquamist.co.uk/cp/sys1/sys1s.JPG
The next big difference between kits is the number and type of failsafes they come with. This is usually the biggest concern when buying a kit because if the injection system fails in any way, will the car be safe?
Failsafes range from water level warning lights that light up when the tank is close to empty, to sensors in the water lines and tank that will turn down boost or switch to aux safe maps if they sense any loss of water flow or lack of water in the tank. some kits com with more than one failsafe to try to cover all the bases of failor, but most come with just one. Most failsafes can be bought seperatly from different manufacturers and adapted to any kit. Be sure to do your reaserch before buying a kit and make sure it will not leave you stranded.
Next is deciding between single stage( on/off) or a progressive kit. Single stage kits use simple boost switches that turn the pump on at a preset boost level, or some other means to turn the pump on off. These kits have no flow adjustment besides on and off. If the system is turned on too soon it may bog down the engine without enough rpm or boost to use that amount of alcohol and water being injected. On the other hand, if you only flow at one rate, it might not be the optimum flow for the whole power band.
Progressive systems, or dual stage systems, use a progressive map with sensors that read your maf sensor and/or boost to calculate how much water to inject. They can also run off of RPM, gear, or TPS. The controller adjusts the flow of the pump acording to the map of the controller, similar to a fuel injector. The biggest advantage to a progressive system is that you have a flow of water/alcohol to match your power curve throughout your power band. This type of kit will have the best driveablity and power band compaired to a kit that is either on or off. For the non progressive kits, you need to use the right size spray nozzle for the horse power you plan on making.
One of the last considerations is the location and size of tank you want. You can utilize your existing winshield washer fluid resivoir and use that to hold your meth, but then you are without washer fluid. Other kits have a small 1/2 gallon tank that mounts under the hood and is stealthy, but you loose meth compacity. Depending on how you drive, 1/2 gallong of meth might last for 1/2 tank of gas or less. Another option is a trunk mounted kit. You can use the stock STI intercooler water tank or opt to buy a supplied tank. These kits hold a lot more fluid but are a little harder to install due to running wires and hose from the engine to the trunk.
Here are some pics of different mounting options:
Trunk
http://img.photobucket.com/albums/v300/beavis820/STi_smcinstall12.jpghttp://i92.photobucket.com/albums/l40/djerickd/DSC01367.jpg
Mine
http://i245.photobucket.com/albums/gg45/kgj996/DSC02414.jpg
Under hood:
http://i66.photobucket.com/albums/h246/dibblejr/DSC00408.jpg
http://i66.photobucket.com/albums/h246/dibblejr/DSC00432.jpg
How does the meth affect my tune?
The water methanol injection will allow for you to run more boost and more timing, depending on your mix. a 50/50 mix might be able support up to 2 degrees of timing, around 1/2 point AFR, and 3-5 lbs of boost over a straight pump gas tune. This combination can net a huge increase in wheel hp while maintaining safe egts and without knock.
Where do I get methanol?
Methanol is most commonly found in windshield washer fluid. The blue washer fluid that is good for -20f is a 40/60 mix of meth and water. while it isn't a 50/50 mix, it is still very effective and very cheap. At $1.69/ gallon, it really beats paying for race fuel or fuel additives. Other sources are fuel suppliers and race fuel distributors. They sell 100% meth, but it isn't cheap. Also, some fuel line antifreeze made by HEET is 100% methanol. While it's not practical to buy dosens of 12oz bottles of heet, you can use them to bump up your washer fluid to a 50/50 mix.
Here is a list of some manufacturers that offer kits.
www.aquamist.co.uk (http://www.aquamist.co.uk/)
http://www.snowperformance.net/
www.coolingmist.com (http://www.coolingmist.com/)
www.alcohol-injection.com (http://www.alcohol-injection.com/)
www.enginerunup.com (http://www.enginerunup.com/)
www.fjoracing.com/products/waterinjection (http://www.fjoracing.com/products/waterinjection)
www.smcenterprises.com/subaru.htm (http://www.smcenterprises.com/subaru.htm)
To be continued..... if any one has any input or Q's post them up.