DIY: Dual Tank AOS System for around $75!

[Gearhead Geek]

Purpose of this DIY: To build a catch can/AOS system on the cheap, yet have it be functional

Audience: This will assume you're somewhat mechanically inclined, and have a basic knowledge of tools

Why: In a PCV system, oil circulates back into your intake tract. This makes your turbo, intercooler,
throttle body, and intake manifold yucky (technical term, seriously). Oil also lowers effective octane rating,
which can lead to knock, and reduced efficiency of the engine.

Why not a Prova/Grimmspeed/Other Company AOS system: A few reasons. First off, they're ridiculously overpriced
in my opinion. Second, while the idea is good, you're dumping the separated oil, as well as the gasoline that's
recondesed inside of it, back into your oil pan. Last I checked, gas doesn't make good engine lubrication.

Inspiration: I've seen plenty of DIY's on catch can/AOS setups, but none that really seemed super functional.
After doing some research, I came across this (http://www.conceptualpolymer.com/PCV%20Line%20Oil%20Removal%20102.pdf) document that breaks down different type of air oil separation
systems for a PCV system in a very good manner.
Doing some further digging, I came accross a few DIY's on 350z, SRT4, and Corvette forums that all seemed
to use the same parts, which happen to be very similar to what is shown to be a good method for AOS.
However, many of them are old, part numbers are out of date, and many picture links have since died.
I decided to try doing this myself, and am writing this DIY to make a sort of up-to-date version,
as well as show how to do it on a WRX (which needs, or at least should have, a dual tank setup).


Now that the basics are out of the way, I'm sure some of you are asking, "$75, really"?
The answer, yes, give or take a little bit. The price will vary depending on your mounting solution,
what types/size of hose you use, etc.

Also, this is being done on my 06 WRX. I know the PCV systems are SLIGHTLY different on the 2.0's,
so again, this DIY assumes you have some basic mechanical knowledge to adapt the setup as needed.
There will be a few places in here where I will notate different hose sizes and small alternatives that
can/may need to be used depending on your setup.

And so, now on to the good stuff...

Step 1: Acquire Parts

Parts Needed:
Husky Air Water Separators, Home Depot UPC: 045564606640 (2 @ $12.69 each) = $25.38
1/4" NPT Male to 3/8" Barb, Home Depot UPC: 045564205799 (4 @ $ 2.29 each) = $ 9.16
2 Pack 3/8" to 3/8" Barb , Home Depot UPC: 045564605995 (2 @ $ 3.49 each) = $ 6.98
PermaPoxy 5 minute Plastic Weld, Advanced Auto Parts ITEM #: 84115 = $ 6.09
1/4" Vacuum Caps, Advanced Auto Parts ITEM #: 47393 = $ 2.49

3/8" Fuel Hose (Length varries depending on your mounting location) = $10 to $20
1/2" Fuel Hose, 6" length (May not be needed depending on your setup) = ? (Haven't bought it yet)
3/8" and/or 1/2" Hose Clamps, high-temp zip ties,
electrical tape, and teflon tape = A few dollars. Seriously if you're worried about price on these you have issues.

The Air/Water Separator
http://i302.photobucket.com/albums/nn81/four999/WRX/AOS/parts/1.jpg

Fittings to use with the separator
http://i302.photobucket.com/albums/nn81/four999/WRX/AOS/parts/2.jpg

Barbed Couplers, for connecting into the PCV system
NOTE: You can do without these if you want to run all new lines entirely.
Keep in mind that the stock fittings are 1/2" as opposed to 3/8", so you'd have to get all 1/2" line in that case.
http://i302.photobucket.com/albums/nn81/four999/WRX/AOS/parts/3.jpg

Epoxy
http://i302.photobucket.com/albums/nn81/four999/WRX/AOS/parts/4.jpg

Vacuum caps
http://i302.photobucket.com/albums/nn81/four999/WRX/AOS/parts/5.jpg


That's it for pictures of the parts. If you need a picture of what hose clamps, zip ties, and fuel line look like, you probably shouldn't be attempting this.

And now, on to assembly...

Step 2: Assembly
This is what the air/water separator looks like out of the packaging.
http://i302.photobucket.com/albums/nn81/four999/WRX/AOS/assembly/01.jpg

At first glance, it's fairly obvious we have some work to do. The drain spiggot needs to
get sealed up, since we want this container to be air tight, and since the spiggot leaks
air like crazy, even when closed.

Let's take a closer look at the parts inside the separator:

http://i302.photobucket.com/albums/nn81/four999/WRX/AOS/assembly/02.jpg

From left to right in the above picture:
The heart of the assembly itself (from here on refered to as the "block"), plastic gear designed to force the air mixture towards the outside of the container, the filter element, and the plastic piece that holds the filter element in place.

[Gearhead Geek]

Here is a picture of the gear sitting in the block
http://i302.photobucket.com/albums/nn81/four999/WRX/AOS/assembly/03.jpg

And here is a picture of the block with the gear removed.
Also, I've removed the o-ring in this picture that the bowl of the tank seals against.
Notice in this picture the C shaped recess inside the block. Those of you who have
seen the inside of a commercial AOS may see similarities. Also, this helps to
better show how the gear and this recess help to direct and swirl the air mixture
towards the outside of the bowl.
http://i302.photobucket.com/albums/nn81/four999/WRX/AOS/assembly/04.jpg

Now that we've got everything apart. Let's get to work.
The first step is going to be to cut the plasic piece in the middle of the block
down a bit. We are not going to be using the filter element because it would
clog far too easily with oil, so it's just excess plastic that doesn't need to be
there. Be sure to sand it well and remove any barbs once it's cut.
I used a small hacksaw, and a small blade & fine grit sandpaper to clean it up.
When done, it should look like this:
http://i302.photobucket.com/albums/nn81/four999/WRX/AOS/assembly/05.jpg

Now is a great time to attach the barbed nipples to the block. We'll use teflon tape
to seal the threads (yes, I'm sure I'll get flamed for using teflon tape in an automotive
situation, but I really don't care, it's not a system containing flowing fluid).
Be sure to only put the tape on the threads, leaving about 1mm or so of the threads showing
on the end going into the block. This is so that the tape won't break apart and get sucked
into the flow of the air (ha, see, common sense ftw). Also, if looking from the threaded end,
make sure to wrap the tape as the following image shows. This will make sure the tape doesn't
unravel as it gets screwed in, but goes in along with the thread.
http://i302.photobucket.com/albums/nn81/four999/WRX/AOS/assembly/06.jpg

Tighten the barbs in, and that part is done. Be careful not to go too nuts, as
the threads inside the block are slightly tapered to help with the sealing.

Next up, we're going to epoxy the gear back into the block.
The epoxy I used is called Plastic Weld. You may have noticed that the block
is made of metal, while the "tube" assembly inside of it is made of plastic.
This makes it a bit of a pain to reattach the gear (anyone with other ideas of a better
way to do this, please post them. I have a few myself but I worry they might get pricey,
and I wanted to keep this inexpensive).

Using some fine grit sandpaper, scuff up the inside of the gear a bit, so the epoxy has
something to bond to. Next, mix up the epoxy, and apply it to the inside of the gear.
The rounded part of the gear will be facing towards the recess inside the block (it really
only fits in one way). Once the epoxy is applied, place the gear inside the block. Try not
to get any epoxy on the underside of the gear (the side facing the recess), as we're just trying
to bond the plastic gear to the plastic tube part. Once it's in, let it sit for a few seconds,
then begin removing the excess epoxy. I used a combination of zip ties with the heads cut off,
and a small flathead screwdriver to do this. The reason we want to remove the excess is that
the epoxy hardens to itself pretty damn well. We want to make sure it's only in between
the gear and the tube, and not clumped up all over the place, because if it is, and you try and
clean it off once hardened, it will try and all come out together.

Incase you can't tell by reading, I had to do it twice.

So first, this is how it should NOT look (notice the big globs of epoxy)
http://i302.photobucket.com/albums/nn81/four999/WRX/AOS/assembly/07-bad.jpg

And now, how it should look when you do it the right way
http://i302.photobucket.com/albums/nn81/four999/WRX/AOS/assembly/07-good.jpg

The packaging says the epoxy is fully usable in 4 hours, however, I checked it after 4 and it
definately wasn't fulled cured. This is probably just due to temperature, but to be on the safe
side, let it sit for at least 24 hours or so.

Now, let's move on to sealing up the spiggots on the bottom of the bowl.
Turn the spiggot to the closed position (honestly it lets air out in either, but for safe measure
turn it closed anyway). Using some good cutters, cut the handle off of the spiggot.
Now, take some epoxy (you'll probably need to mix some more since the first bit will be hardened),
and fill in the opening in the bottom of the spiggot. Be sure to push it in there. Now, take some
epoxy and get it into the opening opposite the handle. This isn't really needed but it's piece of
mind to make sure there won't be any leaks, and that the spiggot assembly won't turn inside the housing.

At this point, the bowls should look like this (sorry, didn't get a picture of the epoxy inside the opening
opposite the handle.
http://i302.photobucket.com/albums/nn81/four999/WRX/AOS/assembly/08.jpg

Let that cure for for a couple hours, and then get the vacuum caps. Trim them down a bit, and place them
over the ends of the spiggots. Be mindful not to aggrivate the epoxy, as it's still not cured.

Here's a picture of the bowls with the caps placed on them
http://i302.photobucket.com/albums/nn81/four999/WRX/AOS/assembly/09.jpg

Now, take a zip tie, and crank it down to hold the cap on.
Next, take some electrical tape, and wrap it around where the handle was. Again, probably
not needed, but it's piece of mind to make sure the handle assembly doesn't rotate, and that the epoxy stays
held in there incase it didn't full bond (aka if you didn't mix it fully).
Again, snag a zip tie and crank it down to make sure the electrical tape doesn't come undone.

At this point, the bowls should look something like this:
http://i302.photobucket.com/albums/nn81/four999/WRX/AOS/assembly/10.jpg

Everything still needs time to cure (as I said, I'm giving it 24 hours just to be safe),
but once cured, here's what the finished assemblys will look like:
http://i302.photobucket.com/albums/nn81/four999/WRX/AOS/assembly/11.jpg

[Gearhead Geek]

Step 3: Installation

Let me start off by saying, there isn't going to be a ton of pictures in this part, nor will it be as step by step as assembly. A lot of this requires being creative, and running the hose appropriately for whichever mounting location you choose.

That being said, here are the two hoses we'll be working with (circled in red). The arrows represent the flow through them (as it pertains to the inlet/outlet on our separators).
http://i302.photobucket.com/albums/nn81/four999/WRX/AOS/installation/01.jpg

Here is a closeup of the rear line going into the PCV diagnosis connector.
http://i302.photobucket.com/albums/nn81/four999/WRX/AOS/installation/02.jpg

The clamps used are called Oetiker Clamps. They're a pain, and you have to be careful when taking the one on the connector
off, so as not to break it. As for getting them off, my best suggestion is either a pair of angle cutters,
or a pair of channel locks. Here's a picture of the clamp after being removed. You basicly have to compress the "ear" (the thing sticking out facing west in the picture), so that you can get the capped portion off.
http://i302.photobucket.com/albums/nn81/four999/WRX/AOS/installation/05.jpg

I only removed the one on the turbo inlet side of the line. I kept the lower portion that runs to the PCV valve T and just cut it, and joined it to a new piece of fuel line with one of the barb connectors.

Here's a picture of the line removed from the PCV diagnosis connector. Notice all the crap built up inside.
http://i302.photobucket.com/albums/nn81/four999/WRX/AOS/installation/03.jpg

At this point, use the barbs and fuel line, and join them up to the tanks. Mounting location is up to you to decide. I chose to (for now) use some L shaped brackets and attach them to my airbox filter. Also, be sure to leave some slack on the engine side of the lines, to allow for movement when the engine torques up and rocks.

When all is said and done, here's what my setup looks like (still missing a few hose clamps, I took this picture before I had them
on just to get it out of the way)
http://i302.photobucket.com/albums/nn81/four999/WRX/AOS/installation/04.jpg

As I said before, the installation part of things isn't too detailed, as you'll have to figure out your hose runs and mounting yourself.
I'll report back in a few days with some pictures of how the tanks are working.

[Bu11dogg2]

Good luck! i've seen how self made catch cans have turned out :hide:

not saying the same fate lies ahead for you, just sayin...

[Gearhead Geek]

Good luck! i've seen how self made catch cans have turned out :hide:

not saying the same fate lies ahead for you, just sayin...

Ty. From what I've seen and by the design of the air/water separators used, this seems like it should be a pretty decent setup.
Anywhos, back to work so I can get this thing finished :D

[Berge56]

in for the finished product

[Gearhead Geek]

Updated with assembly, installation will be posted on Friday (aka once it's installed, duhhh lol)

[98Wagoon]

cant wait to see how this turns out. please keep us updated after the install with progress reports and how its handling/working/etc!

[Robk0000]

i had a pinched line on my catchcan cause the turbo to be over oiled and i lost a piston...

[Gearhead Geek]

i had a pinched line on my catchcan cause the turbo to be over oiled and i lost a piston...

Was that a quote from Honda-Tech? I'm confused :confused: :lol:

[mdungelman]

Actually, its a quote from the "Oh ****, my **** is ****ed up" thread.

[Gearhead Geek]

Actually, its a quote from the "Oh ****, my **** is ****ed up" thread.

Oh, lol. Just as bad :lol:

[javasti2004]

can wait to see

[Psychoreo]

Was that a quote from Honda-Tech? I'm confused :confused: :lol:

i had a pinched line on my catchcan cause the turbo to be over oiled and i lost a piston...

And then I bought his turbo...

Can't wait to see how this works out!!

[civic si hb]

I'm with Randy..... this scare me (hides)

You are a braver man than i am sir!!!

Been reading on "other sites" of home made nightmares of this because of user error or build error.

Just becareful man....

I know you got skills and all but just tripple check everything 10 x over to makes sure you are good.

Very nice and detailed write up bud :)

[Gearhead Geek]

I'm with Randy..... this scare me (hides)

You are a braver man than i am sir!!!

Been ready on "other sites" of home made nightmares of this because of user error or build error.

Just becareful man....

I know you got skills and all but just tripple check everything 10 x over to makes sure you are good.

Very nice and detailed write up bud :)

I can definitely understand the fear. I've seen the horror stories too, however, they're generally either from catch cans containing a filter element that deteriorates and breaks apart, or from cans with viewing tubes that blow out and shoot oil everywhere.
The opinion on this style design seems to be positive, and I've seen plenty of threads with people running them for years with no issue.
As far as this design goes, the worst I can see happening is one of 3 things:
1) Small leak in the lines, which would be noticeable pretty quickly I would imagine, and an easy fix.
2) The epoxy doesn't hold, in which case I either:
-a) Remove the gear (which is how most other people do this setup)
-b) Buy two new cans, and fabricate a piece of metal pipe to go in place of the filter, and drill holes in it to allow air to flow through
3) The gear turns out to be made of weak plastic (doubt this, as it's designed to withstand pressures of up to 150psi @ 125 degrees F), and a tooth breaks off. This shouldn't be an issue since once inside the outlet tube that's inside of the block, it wouldn't be able to pass through (the design inside seems like the passages aren't large enough). And, if it did get through (again, HIGHLY unlikely), it's just an excuse to get a new turbo :D

We'll see what happens though. I'll definitely monitor it very closely for the first few weeks to see how it's holding up.

Now I just need Friday to get here so I can get it installed :lol:

[civic si hb]

I can definitely understand the fear. I've seen the horror stories too, however, they're generally either from catch cans containing a filter element that deteriorates and breaks apart, or from cans with viewing tubes that blow out and shoot oil everywhere.
The opinion on this style design seems to be positive, and I've seen plenty of threads with people running them for years with no issue.
As far as this design goes, the worst I can see happening is one of 3 things:
1) Small leak in the lines, which would be noticeable pretty quickly I would imagine, and an easy fix.
2) The epoxy doesn't hold, in which case I either:
a) Remove the gear (which is how most other people do this setup)
b) Buy two new cans, and fabricate a piece of metal pipe to go in place of the filter, and drill holes in it to allow air to flow through
3) The gear turns out to be made of weak plastic (doubt this, as it's designed to withstand pressures of up to 150psi @ 125 degrees F), and a tooth breaks off. This shouldn't be an issue since once inside the outlet tube that's inside of the block, it wouldn't be able to pass through (the design inside seems like the passages aren't large enough). And, if it did get through (again, HIGHLY unlikely), it's just an excuse to get a new turbo :D

We'll see what happens though. I'll definitely monitor it very closely for the first few weeks to see how it's holding up.

Now I just need Friday to get here so I can get it installed :lol:



Nice man..... So you;ll have it set up for the meet on Sunday hopefully???

[Gearhead Geek]

Nice man..... So you;ll have it set up for the meet on Sunday hopefully???

So long as we don't get any crazy thunderstorms on Friday, yup. May have another fun little mod done by then too :D

[civic si hb]

So long as we don't get any crazy thunderstorms on Friday, yup. May have another fun little mod done by then too :D


Yeah I should be picking up my wheels tomorrow and have them put on Friday too :)

[Gearhead Geek]

Yeah I should be picking up my wheels tomorrow and have them put on Friday too :)

Oh nice, what'd you get?

[civic si hb]

Oh nice, what'd you get?

4 Of These:
http://i649.photobucket.com/albums/uu212/Motostar_Wheels/XXR%20Wheels/4368.jpg

[Gearhead Geek]

4 Of These:
http://i649.photobucket.com/albums/uu212/Motostar_Wheels/XXR%20Wheels/4368.jpg

Nice. Anywhos, don't wanna take this too far off track.

So as I was saying, worst case if something goes wrong with these tanks, they're dirt cheap to replace. < $13 can't go wrong :D

[Seraphinwolf]

Looks good so far. I still like my Grimmspeed though. This is a great second choice!
Only thing to not choosing the recycling AOSs is that the regualr oil change intervals of those who use it make it a null point on contamination of the oil going back in. Plus a proper oil filter will catch any offending particles that may come trough the system. Both serve the purpose fo sho!

[N8wrx]

Hey i couldnt help but notice the thread, im actually doing this same exact setup on my car, just using a different air water separator. Check out this one http://www.coilhose.com/uploads/products/Page%2060.pdf the PN is 8823M dont forget the M the 8823 wont work. The metal bowl is perfect and can with stand 250PSI and 250 degrees. I came upon these cause my friend works for a large construction company and they use these on there big machines.

[Gearhead Geek]

Hey i couldnt help but notice the thread, im actually doing this same exact setup on my car, just using a different air water separator. Check out this one http://www.coilhose.com/uploads/products/Page%2060.pdf the PN is 8823M dont forget the M the 8823 wont work. The metal bowl is perfect and can with stand 250PSI and 250 degrees. I came upon these cause my friend works for a large construction company and they use these on there big machines.

How much did those run you just out of curiosity? I'm liking the 250 degree rating.

Also, DIY is done.

[javasti2004]

How much did those run you just out of curiosity? I'm liking the 250 degree rating.

Also, DIY is done.

pics of install?

[Gearhead Geek]

Well, finished it all up. Car runs just fine, although I did feel for leaks and there's a small leak around 2 of the barb fittings. Not a bit deal, although I'll go hunting for some 3/8" to 1/2" barbs instead just to be safe (found some online for $0.60 a piece, although I'd rather source them locally if possible). Also, I really don't like the short line coming off of the PCV valve T. It really makes it a pain to take the clamp on and off. Worst case though it's a fairly simple fix to swap it to a 6" or 12" piece of 1/2" hose.

[Gearhead Geek]

pics of install?

On the first page :)

[N8wrx]

I believe they are around 40-45 a piece? I haven't picked them up yet im waiting for a few more things to come in.

[-nessa05]

very nice! maybe you can do it to my car? :)

[Gearhead Geek]

very nice! maybe you can do it to my car? :)

Not really wanting to do the plumbing again, but I don't mind helping out making the assembly's :)

[Seraphinwolf]

My only other concern looming at your installed pics is length of the lines. That's a lot of tubing to have everything run through. Like a LOT a lot!

[Robk0000]

Its not fluid that will be running through the lines, it will be oil vapor. Eventually the lines will develop some buildup and the pressure will bring it to the cans. Its a nice setup you made, and it looks like you used some quality parts.

Now you just have to wait and see how long it takes to collect anything. My guess is, alooooonnnngggg time!





Nice work!

[Gearhead Geek]

My only other concern looming at your installed pics is length of the lines. That's a lot of tubing to have everything run through. Like a LOT a lot!

It's actually quite a bit shorter then it looks. The length is about the same as what post people run when mounting the tanks near the passenger side shock tower. I have debated just putting the tanks inline on the lines, and resting them inside of the IM runners.

[Gearhead Geek]

Just took a closer look under the hood. I think I can possibly condense it down to 1 tank, and mount it a whole lot cleaner. I'll draw up a picture later and post some more info to bounce the idea off you guys and get some opinions. :)

[Robk0000]

Back when i did this on my gc, i added a nice mounting cup to the side of the ac solenoid, just to the left of the turbo. It was placed perfectly. Not too much hosing either.

[Gearhead Geek]

So, I've been giving it some thought here. I think I'm going to take a bit of a cue from Perrin to clean things up.

What I'm thinking is this:
- Run a new line off of the crankcase vent/PCV valve T.
- T it into the line coming off of the rocker cover vent piping on the front of the IC.
- Run a single line to a single tank
- Run a single output line from the tank to the nipple on the inlet up near the filter where the rocker cover vent line runs into.
- Cap the nipple off closest to the turbo on the inlet pipe with a vacuum cap.

This would allow me to simply place the tank inbetween the wiring harness and the line running off of the vacuum check valve, no mounting place needed, and that should be far enough away from any major heat source.

This would also make the lines run EXTREMELY short (but as Robk said, these aren't fluid or boost lines, it's PCV so the line length really doesn't matter), and I think would make the tank a bit more accessible to empty/view.

[Gearhead Geek]

Ok, so did some more thinking on this. I think I'm gonna keep my mounting location, as it has the benefit of being in a cooler area. This will help the oil to collect.

Here's a drawing of the current system vs how I'm thinking of rerouting it (you'll have to use your imagination a bit).
http://i302.photobucket.com/albums/nn81/four999/WRX/AOS/idea.jpg

The red line represent the flow coming out of the engine. The blue is going to be the single block (since I'm going to tee the 2 lines together). I found some fittings that will allow me to make the output line come out cleaner over the top of the block, as the drawing shows.
Overall I think this is will be a lot cleaner looking, and easier to maintain (1 tank vs 2).
Also, this will be a lot cheaper to do for anyone who may try it.

So, thoughts, opinions? :)

[N8wrx]

Keeping the tank warmer is actually better. Having the tanks too cold is what causes the white gunk buildup which is condensation mixing with the oil. I think its crawford but there new AOS kit runs the coolant return pipe into there AOS to heat the oil slightly then they reroute the coolant back into the engine. (coolant surrounds the outter edge of the AOS tank to warm the liquid inside evaporating the condensation which escapes the AOS causing no build up in white gunk)

[Gearhead Geek]

Keeping the tank warmer is actually better. Having the tanks too cold is what causes the white gunk buildup which is condensation mixing with the oil. I think its crawford but there new AOS kit runs the coolant return pipe into there AOS to heat the oil slightly then they reroute the coolant back into the engine. (coolant surrounds the outter edge of the AOS tank to warm the liquid inside evaporating the condensation which escapes the AOS causing no build up in white gunk)

Point definitely noted, however, the difference with their system is that they recycle the oil back into the oil pan.
With this, I'm collecting it in a tank, and just draining it off manually. While it may not look pretty when it gets gunked, I'd rather that then it cycling back through the turbo.
Plus, having it cooler will allow the oil to collect quicker.
Definitely something to keep in mind though if I ever decide to rework this into a recycling AOS system :up:

[98Wagoon]

I never got a chance to see this yesterday in person. how's it working out so far?

[Gearhead Geek]

I never got a chance to see this yesterday in person. how's it working out so far?

So far so good. Nothing really collected yet besides a small brownish haze. Car's running good. Just a bit of an eyesore under the hood, but I'll take care of that next weekend. :)

[98Wagoon]

brownish haze is probably better than it being full already :lol:

I'll have to take a peek saturday sometime.

[Gearhead Geek]

brownish haze is probably better than it being full already :lol:

I'll have to take a peek saturday sometime.

Lol ya definately. If it were filling up by now I'd have some serious problems :lol:

As for saturday, dunno if I'll be at Supermeet or not, but I'll be at the cruise on sunday assuming it doesn't rain or anything.

[98Wagoon]

Lol ya definately. If it were filling up by now I'd have some serious problems :lol:

As for saturday, dunno if I'll be at Supermeet or not, but I'll be at the cruise on sunday assuming it doesn't rain or anything.


no sunday for me :unamused:. I already had to submit paperwork to get saturday off. fortunately my captain understands I have a slight... problem.. when it comes to cars/subies/etc.

[Gearhead Geek]

no sunday for me :unamused:. I already had to submit paperwork to get saturday off. fortunately my captain understands I have a slight... problem.. when it comes to cars/subies/etc.

Don't we all :lol:
Well, I may make it up on Saturday too. I wanna get the plumbing on this redone, might be helping a buddy move, and I've got a TON of cleaning to do (quite seriously, there's about 10 sq ft of floor space to walk on in my second bedroom). But, if I can get it all done quick enough, I may take a ride up in the afternoon for a half hour or so.

[98Wagoon]

very well, then! maybe I'll see you there

[Psychoreo]

So how's it working so far?

[Gearhead Geek]

So how's it working so far?

So far so good. No major accumulation yet besides a light haze, presumably because of the length of the hose and it's building up in there. I do still intend to significantly reduce the piping and bring it down to 1 tank. It's looking like I'll finally have a chance to do that next saturday, along with FINALLY being able to install my turbo inlet. I'll post pics with the revised setup as soon as it's done.