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View Full Version : FAT Subie fast steering mod


TomTom
02-23-2010, 03:38 PM
http://www.youtube.com/watch?v=XbCt6eFP-ZA

Bu11dogg2
02-23-2010, 03:42 PM
Nice! is this your car?

method
02-23-2010, 04:46 PM
Wouldn't a higher ratio rack do the same thing for less money (assuming you're getting the part x-rayed as was mentioned in the video).

CTATV
02-23-2010, 05:38 PM
Nice! is this your car?

+1

Seraphinwolf
02-23-2010, 11:48 PM
This is a guy on RS25.com.
It's very dangersous to even think about doing on a road vehicle. And as the guy in the vid says it doesn't increase the wheel stiffness which is why he chose to do it.

subaru_crazy
02-26-2010, 02:02 AM
wouldnt it be easyier to just redrill it then cut off the excess. safer to

Seraphinwolf
02-26-2010, 07:12 AM
wouldnt it be easyier to just redrill it then cut off the excess. safer to

You run stress fracture risk not to meantion eating a drill bit. On way or another you still need to crayon the part to ensure the metal didn't fatigue.

method
02-26-2010, 11:24 PM
wouldnt it be easyier to just redrill it then cut off the excess. safer to

Assuming things line up yes..this would be easier. Carbide cut's nicely (albeit slowly)...even through high carbon, or hardened steal.

itsmy04wrx
02-26-2010, 11:31 PM
Wow that's pretty sweet :)

axis
03-01-2010, 11:51 AM
If he heated the steel up to 125 degrees F, welded with strick controls not to go over 300 degrees F and then slowly cool it back down to 125-200 degrees for an hour or so (assuming worst case senerio that it's HTS, I doubt car manufacurer's would use HY80 or higher) you would have less chance for stress fractures. You'd still need to get it x-rayed, MT'd or acid etched which would be pretty exspensive I'm sure. I don't see how this would be a "cost effective" method, IMO.

subaru_crazy
03-01-2010, 10:10 PM
i think rather then cuting it and then rewelding it. i'd put it in a bridgeport and drill it with a taperd bit then cut off the excess.

LostinMaine
03-01-2010, 10:47 PM
This is done to the Formula Vee, well its just redrilled about 1.5" inside from the stock location. with a manual rack and 10" hoosers its a pain to turn at slow speeds. Also doesnt help that i cant move my arms inside that car

TomTom
06-16-2010, 03:07 PM
wouldnt it be easyier to just redrill it then cut off the excess. safer to

I did think of that but the hole in the steering arm is tapered.

boxer3maine
06-20-2010, 03:00 PM
is that the same guy who made hios own reduced gear for the tranny?

ambitious.

the shots where the cast needs cut and shortened, is quite weldable. Does not use high heat, it is mild...
he mentioned cracks.

I welded at one to take place of a broken bolt...it increased the psi of the area all around. I ponder what it does to the race seats (bearings), seems it is far enough away to leave the precision alone.

it is something to surface gentle...I think the castings are all too small in the subes. Bearings are good, but I feel they went skimpy by a few pounds. Even the balljoint defies logic. But 23 years and pouncing on bigger heavier tires... they must now what they are doing.
the welder can do something quite strong about it...

also the ratio of twice the prerssure? it is a direct hit on the castings. the oe power steering is like a dynamical shock absorber. Take it away and ya got hard steel pressures, no forgiveness.

DHGurs
08-30-2010, 02:32 PM
New option!

http://newenglandsubarus.com/forums/showthread.php?p=325660#post325660